CHINTA COURTS MALAY FOOD LOVERS

Classic Malay cuisine by resident chef Sandra Samad takes pride of place at Chinta by Chinoz in Bangsar.

Heralding a fresh chapter for Chinoz on the Park after its move from Suria KLCC, owner Teng Wee Jeh explains Chinta is a totally different concept from the original Chinoz, saying “For the interim period until the other outlet is ready (in Lucky Gardens, Bangsar), some Chinoz signature specials will appear in the menu at Chinta. Once the other restaurant opens, Chinta will focused solely on Malay dishes.”

Chef Sandra Samad who has a wealth of F&B experience, started at front of house at Rasa Sayang Hotel Penang. Then she became the duty manager at BonTon KL. Prior to joining Chinoz, she was the manager at q*doz Bangsar. During her tenure at Chinoz on the Park, Sandra oversaw the pastry and central kitchen for all Chinoz outlets.

Verdant greenery outside the restaurant beckons diners in. The simple interior exudes old world charm; retro knick-knacks such as wooden biscuit moulds, Nyonya baskets, rustic side cupboards and marble-topped tables as well as framed vintage prints serve as visual interest and decorative touches. 

Teng says, “Chinta serves classic Malay cuisine. Nowadays a lot of Malay food is either too pedas (spicy-hot) or lacks subtlety. At Chinta, flavour is more important than chilli ‘power’. You won’t need a kevlar-coated palate to enjoy our food!”

Topping the must-try list is Chinta’s Northern-style Nasi Ulam Utara (RM33++). Lightly flavoured with fresh turmeric, Basmati rice is tossed with at least 11 types of ulam (fresh local herbs). We love the delicate aroma of the myriad of herbs in the rice; good enough to be enjoyed on its own with a dollop of sambal.

If you order the lunch platter of the herbed rice, it comes with Ayam Rose, telur masin (salted duck egg), keropok ikan (fried fish crackers) and acar (pickles) as a complete meal.

The Ayam Rose (RM27++) is Chef Sandra’s take on the celebratory Malay dish of ayam masak merah – chicken cooked in a vibrant red sauce of tomato, chillies and spices. We like the stimulating complexity of the thick sauce: a cohesive melange of tangy tomatoes, chillies, onion, lemongrass and various spices. 

Well-smoked beef slices make the house speciality of Daging Salai Gulai Lemak (RM39++) outstanding in our books. The  gravy, accentuated by ground pepper and lemongrass’ fresh lemony-grassiness, has just the right degree of lemak santan (coconut cream richness) to it.

It's a highly recommended dish – we can’t wait to return to try the smoked beef short ribs version or Gulai Lemak Rusuk Salai (RM48++).

For a serving of greens, you can’t go wrong with Bendi Sambal Goreng (RM15++) – tender whole okra topped with coarsely pounded and fried red chillies, and crispy anchovies. Although the various dishes are tame in the fiery-hot department, each one is redolent with appetising, vivid flavours of the ingredients used.

As an avid fan of mee rebus, I’m stoked to find an on-point Mee Rebus Johor (RM19++). The thick, sweet-savoury gravy together with some batter crisps, firm beancurd, hardboiled egg, chopped spring onion and coriander, sliced beef and yellow noodles is satisfyingly delicious.

Local kuih naturally takes centrestage for dessert. The floral-shape, pretty as a picture Kuih Lapis Sakura (2 pcs, RM9++) is a light, subtly sweet treat to conclude the meal. We can’t get enough of the local confection’s ‘boing boing’ texture.

Equally notable is Kuih Kaswi (4 pcs, RM9++) – steamed cake made with tapioca and rice flour, palm sugar and pandan, and eaten with grated coconut.

Thirst-quenchers to try include Sarbat Pulau Pinang (RM12++) – a refreshing drink of spiced rose syrup with coconut juice and Kasturi Asam Boi (RM9++), fresh calamansi juice with salty preserved plums.

Teng informs us Chinta’s menu will change periodically. “The selection will remain relatively small as Sandra prefers to maintain the overall quality of the food.”

For reservations call Chinta by Chinoz, tel: 03-2201 375624. Address: Jalan Kemuja, Bukit Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur