Sunday, December 02, 2012

YEAST SIR!

 It was former restaurateur, entepreneur and founder of YEAST Christophe Chatron-Michaud's search for good French breads to satisfy his cravings that led him and wife/MD Lissan Teh to open YEAST, Bangsar's latest French boulangerie (bakery), bistro and wine bar.
 Roping in artisan baker Christophe Gros all the way from France to produce traditional, rustic French breads using home-grown, natural yeast starter at their new venture, YEAST believes it will win discerning foodies over with their Bistronomy (Bistro + Gastronomy geddit?) concept.
You can't miss its bright sunny yellow facade that beckons invitingly to passersby to pop in and browse. Imagine the wonderful scent of freshly baked breads wafting out its typically French premise (sepia-toned posters, black&white floor tiles and cosy red banquette seating) every morning - yes, at the unearthly hours of 4 am whilst most of us are still cavorting with Mr Sandman, the artisan baker is already hard at work preparing our daily bread!
YEAST is ready to show how we can rustle up different meals from its wide variety of signature breads; from appetiser and starter to dessert too. Chatron-Michaud is even dabbling with the exciting possibility of pairing his hearty, crusty breads with local curries, spreads and fillings.
Priced from RM10 onwards, YEAST's signature breads include the traditional baguette, flaky crescents of croissants, gruyere cheese and smoked duck batard, cranberru batard and white chocoalate viennois. Toasted lightly and spread with just a little butter, they're perfect for a simple but tasty breakfast.
Come noon, roll up your sleeves for a speedy yet delicious lunch of smoked salmon sandwich, Nicoise salad or a slice of quiche Lorraine washed down with some roasted pumpkin soup with duck confit.

Tea calls for puffy croissants adorned with almond flakes, wickedly sinful Valrhona chocolate tart, warm almond and pear tart or the refreshingly tangy lemon meringue tart.
As the day turns dusky at sunset, you can seek solace in a bowlful of comforting boeuf bourguignon (tender braised beef short rib with red wine, root vegetable puree and crispy fried onion) or delicately seared salmon with creamed spinach and bearnaise sauce.
 Complement a glass of your favourite red or white wine (French of course!) with duck liver terrine with port-balsamic and fruit reduction on brioche toast or king prawns in puff pastry with tarragon-fennel bisque and ratatouille. Deeply flavourful yet light enough to keep growling tummies amply filled.
"Forget about stuffy rituals of French dining," urged Chatron-Michaud. "YEAST's convivial atmosphere welcomes you to discover the pleasures of classic comfort food that's freshly cooked right in our open kitchen."
YEAST seats up to 60 persons and will be opened Tues-Sun from 8 am to 6 pm. Bistro dinner menu available after 5 December 2012. Ample proof that men and women can live on breads alone...especially if they're oven-fresh from YEAST.

YEAST, 24, Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar, KL. Tel: 03 2282 0118. www.yeastbistronomy.com

HOW TO TEMPT A TYCOON



Some of us may never get a chance to be one of those tycoons to make the Forbes rich list but hey, we can sure dine like the best of them!
Just step across the threshold of Lai Poh Heen's opulent white and gold interior and one can pretend we were dining in a Chinese tai pan's palatial turn of the century home high up on the lofty Victoria Peak in Hong Kong instead of traffic-choked Kuala Lumpur...

With its pristine white high ceiling and ornate chandeliers, expansive picture windows and polished marble-topped tables paired with Blackwood chairs, carefully curated Oriental artworks and artefacts,  the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur's world-class Chinese restaurant would immediately make any mogul worth his millions feel right at home.

Now that award-winning chef Ricky Thein has taken over the culinary reins, you can expect  the food to be suitably refined and palate-pleasing enough to satisfy those of the manor born. No faddish food here thank you very much. Instead the chef's latest repertoire harks back to familiar, well-loved classics that are bestowed with restrained modern touches. Portions may look deceptively dainty but rest assured, the resultant flavours are anything but. Bold yes; brash no.

Take that night's curtain-raiser for instance. The visually arresting platter has two delicate egg pancake cones stuck upright into discs of fresh watermelon and musk melon. Filled with crispy seven spice-scented soft shell crab chunks, they form a pretty picture with a scattering of tiny, translucent ginger flavoured jelly dices on the side. Mind  you, those little cubes sure worked like a charm, their zingy bursts of warm spiciness adroitly tempering the crustaceans' mild greasiness.

For someone who never care much for soup, I always make an exception for Chef Ricky's soulful broths. I still recall the splendid soup he dished up for the recent Malaysia International Gourmet Festival and this time, it was no different. The doubled-boiled soup with baby abalone and supreme fish maw was good to every sweet, last drop. Aside from the little baby bok choy, slippery smooth fish maw and luxurious baby abalone, its delicate sweetness was augmented by berry-bright red kei chi (wolfberries) and a whole dried scallop. 

Bursting with deliciously smoky accent from its jasmine tea-smoked preparation, the tender, juicy chicken had everyone clucking with approval. The bracing ginger and spring onion dip gave it a sublime lift.

While most chefs would prefer to counter the cod's natural richness with something acidic, Chef Ricky took a gamble by topping rectangular bars of black cod fillet with gooey, melted cheese. Accompanied by fat spears of Australian asparagus tips, crunchy magnolia petals and crisp-tender deep-fried shimeiji, we felt like the proverbial cat that got the cream. I guess the trick is to slap on just enough to tantalise the tastebuds or else it'd be too much of an overkill.


The lightly stir-fried, jade green snow peas, celery, carrot and asparagus stalks in the ensuing dish of Stir-fried Seasonal Vegetables with Honey and Crispy Preserved Olive Tree Leaves helped to alleviate the guilt of such an indulgent treat somewhat.


Alas, before we could pat ourselves on the back for being such saints, our steely resolve disappeared instantly the minute we had a bite of the seared prawns with spicy lemongrass sauce. Those succulent crustaceans lacquered in a fiery piquant and citrusy sauce with aromatic curry leaves, onion and garlic slivers would draw even the wiliest, cold-fish magnates out of their shell. 

Why bother sending a private jet to buy a plane-load of Musang King durians when you can waltz into Lai Poh Heen and demand a serving of the famed chilled durian pancakes? Meticulously wrapped to resemble pale gold ingots filled with cool, creamy and oh-so-heavenly sweet filling, every mouthful of the pancake is sure to leave you feeling like a million dollars.

And that, ladies and gentlemen, are some of the alluring ways to tempt a tycoon...or dine like you're one!



Lai Poh Heen, Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Tel:+603/ 2179 8885

Monday, November 19, 2012

SPOONFED!

These cool ice-blended Watermelon juice spiked with Mint (RM8.90) from Fat Spoon was the perfect antidote to freshen us up after our arduous battle with Klang Valley's horrendous traffic.
 Owned and operated by the Pong sisters, this modern Nyonya outlet is packed with quirky retro charm and a top draw with the young, trendy crowd from the middle to upper class residential areas nearby. Who can blame them once you have a taste of the restaurant's scrumptious Nyonya and contemporary fare?
 
I'm appalled to admit that it was my maiden visit but stepping into the cosy confines, I love the blasts from the past that greeted me at every nook and cranny: from the old-fashioned pots and kitchen utensils suspended overhead and blackboard display listing the house specials to the slightly tattered menus printed on rough brown paper and time-worn yellowed newspaper-plastered wall above the bar counter.
For that night's bloggers' tasting dinner, Fat Spoon chose to unveil its latest dishes. The selection was printed in a specially designed menu for easy reference.
Our famished tummies were soon silenced by the tasty appetiser of crispy pumpkin fritters. Served with Thai chilli sauce, this speciality is a side dish to complement the Fat Salmon Sandwich (RM16.90).
 
Light, crispy and subtly sweet, the pumpkin nests were so incredibly addictive, we quickly made short work of them.
Crunchy slices of apple and herbed mayo bestowed sexy twists to the Fat Salmon Sandwich which comprised slivers of smoked salmon and lettuce in between a sesame seed topped burger.
The Moo Moo Rice Bowl (RM15.90) had a distinctly Thai slant to it, thanks to the inclusion of fresh basil and the moreish basil-accentuated beef tenderloin chunks on a heap of fluffy rice. A sunny side up egg scattered with fried shallots enriched the whole ensemble further.
Caramelised tamarind prawns coupled with finely sliced gingerflower and coriander imparted their deep-seated flavours and enticing aromas to the Tamarind Prawn Angel Hair Pasta (RM16.90). We adore the dish's well-balanced nuances; an artful blend of slightly sourish-sweet and briny dimensions that leave you hankering for more.
Just when we thought nothing could possibly rival or outdo all the delectable fare that we had savoured, along came the mother of all dessert...Sago Pudding with The Last Polka's Salted Gula Melaka Ice Cream (RM9.90). Now I'm a huge fan of this classic Nyonya pudding and I was completely smitten by how well the cold, creamy treat matched the tiny pearly globules.
If you're keen to check Fat Spoon out for yourself, here's the essential details. Reservations recommended for dinner especially during the weekends.

Friday, November 16, 2012

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS



As the year draws to a close, the season of parties will be in full swing. While champagnes and wines are the choice drinks for most revellers, what are teetotalers to do?
This is where the 1688 Grand Rose from France and Inah from South Africa premium non-alcoholic beverages aim to fill the gap and make their flowing presence felt. Made from pure fruit juices, the twist in these imported drinks by Ambrosia Trading Sdn Bhd lie in the luxurious product packaging - at first glance the labels, foil coverings and wire cages holding the corks in place are dead-ringers for the real wines that are prevalent during revelries.
 
Unveiled with some fanfare at Dato' Chef Ismail Ahmad's Rebung restaurant in Bangsar, Mr Remi Rossano, Principal of 1688 Grand Rose believed that both products will be the toast of our multi-racial country. Because the beverages contain absolutely NO alcohol at all, people from all walks of life regardless of their age and race can raise their glasses of these drinks without fear of being intoxicated.
 
Besides drinking it straight from the bottle, the beverages can also be used to create interesting dishes such as Mediterranean Roast Chicken, Seafood Skewers, Stewed Lamb, Prawns Nyonya Style, Assam Pedas Fish and Steamed Caramel Apam as demonstrated by Dato' Chef Ismail.


With its salmon pink hues and fine bubbles, the 1688 Grand Rose is perfect as a pre-dinner aperitif that's not unlike a sparkling rose (minus the alcoholic bitter aftertaste). Concocted from 100% red and white grape blends, it boasts a bouquet of floral and fruity notes, and a muted Muscat flavour. Served it chilled at 6-8 degrees Celsius to complement sweet and sour seafood or white meat dishes.

I opened two bottles recently for a dinner party where seasoned wine lovers and teens attended. Needless to say, the drinks were an absolute hit to counter the sweltering heat and prime the palate.

Amazingly, the premium beverages even mimic the real wines. The Inah Merlot has distinctly strawberry and blackcurrant notes; its nectar sweetness best enjoyed well-chilled at 16 degrees Celsius. Goes superbly well with curries and spicy food.
 
Ripe plums and blackberry accents reign in the Inah Cabernet Sauvignon with a subtle oaky finish. Pair this with steaks or rich stews or even a hearty roast chicken.
I like the Shiraz for its berry accent with hints of spice - imagine matching it with some nice cheese.

You can buy the 1688 Grand Rose (RM56.90) and Inah series (RM43.90 each) at major supermarts like BIG, Cold Storage, Mercato, Village Grocer and AEON.

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