EMPIRE OF GOOD FOOD

 

In Hong Kong, the taste of success is defined by the dish "yue chi lou farn" - braised shark's fin with rice - a colloquialism among punters who would treat themselves to the luxurious delicacy when they strike it rich in the stock or property market or enjoy an unexpected windfall.

Taking a tongue-in-cheek approach to the popular sybolism, Chef Thian Taik Yong decided to entice local diners and Di Wei patrons with "pau yue lou farn" - braised abalone and fish maw served with fried rice throughout March. 

Priced at RM58.80++ per set, the exquisitely prepared dish takes him three hours to prepare using canned Australian abalone and imported dried fish maw. "I decided to substitute abalone for shark's fin to give the dish a fresh twist," said the boyish Chef Thian. "It's also more eco-friendly yet retains that touch of luxury."

Instead of plain rice, the chef served fried rice cooked with egg white; the portion enveloped in a egg yolk crepe. Dried scallop lends the fluffy grains extra flavour and depth.

The accompanying dish of braised abalone and fish maw provides the necessary moisture from its full-bodied, slightly unctuous abalone sauce. Smooth and succulent, the fish maw and abalone went swimmingly well with some plump "tau kan" (compressed slices of layered beancurd sheets) which had soaked up the irresistible sauce. A side dish of lightly sauteed iceberg lettuce lends healthy balance to the indulgent meal.

For the month of April, brace yourself for a grilling good time courtesy of BBQ chef Lai Yoke Wei. You'd go quackers over his creation of Honey Apple Cider Crispy Roast Duck.

His signature Roast Duck has quite a following and this latest variant will reinforce his expertise in the roasting realm. Prime ducks weighing about 2.3-2.5kg each are marinated overnight in Lai's distinct concoction of blended green apple, honey and apple cider beer. Then the ducks are hung up to dry before roasting.

During the air-drying process, the ducks are basted with maltose. Then the skin is liberally pricked with a knife and seasoned to taste before the ducks are roasted until the skin takes on a burnished sheen and crackling crisp. 

The tantalising apple honey sauce is poured into the dish before the duck is placed on top prior to serving, to ensure the duck remains crispy when it reaches the dining table. Prior booking is required should you wish to sample this delectable speciality.

Price: RM40++ for half a duck and RM70++ for a whole roast duck

Sweet treat to finish with...a choice of puree dragonfruit with ice cream or mango puree and sago with ice cream

For reservations, please call Di Wei Restaurant, tel: 03-5565 1388. Address: Empire Hotel Subang, Jalan SS15/1 Subang Jaya, Selangor.

TALK OF THE TOWN

How does your garden grow compared to Table Talk's?

Much as I like and am crazy about food, I don't have that much passion to devote my life to slave over a hot stove day in day out; churning dish after dish out consistently and unfailingly to please paying customers. Uh, I guess that's why I prefer writing about food than making an actual living out of it as a cafe owner or restaurateur.

I take my hat off to chefs and restaurateurs...they're such a special breed of people who not only can stand the heat but also take an unbelievable amount of crap from customers, staff, suppliers and the powers-that-be who need to be dealt with in the running of the F&B business.

I guess hope springs eternal in the hearts and minds of aspiring chefs and wannabe restaurateurs as they bravely go where eagles fear to tread...like Raymond Tan, the enthusiastic owner behind Table Talk, a cosy bistro-style outlet in Taman Tun Dr Ismail who has determinedly set out to put his money where his mouth is.

Natural freshness tops Table Talk's culinary philosophy

"Our aim is to serve real food made from fresh, quality ingredients," said Tan, MD and owner of Table Talk. "I insist on our dishes being free from artificial flavouring, colouring, preservatives and chemicals. If possible, we'd eliminate processed food entirely from our menu but as it is, we are still working towards that."

We are what we eat...

The health-conscious entrepreneur turned restaurateur shared how personal dining out frequency and his own yearnings for simple MSG-free fare have spurred him to venture into the opening of Table Talk. Despite encountering numerous obstacles that sometimes threaten to derail his lofty plans, he insisted on the chef making sauces and necessary dishes from scratch; going to the extent of banning canned food in the kitchen and air-frying chips instead of deep-frying them.

Look ma, no oil! Air-fried fries to lessen the guilt

Opened in November last year, Table Talk has gradually drew young families from around the neighbourhood for its weekend breakfast and a white collar working folks during lunch. The owner is also thinking of enticing couples and families to procure and pick up a picnic basket from the outlet and troop off to the lush Kiara Park nearby for an outdoorsy meal.

Cheesy, eggy goodness...dig in and discover sliced sausages, onion and rustic tomato sauce in the heart of it all

According to Tan, the breakfast crowd has been encouraging since it started. Word has started to spread among their regulars and he is confident that the numbers will increase steadily with time. He enthused on how the house Baked Egg with Cheese (RM13) is fast becoming a popular choice for youngsters who can't get enough of the baked speciality. The rich, cheesy egg mixture with sauteed sausages, onion and homemade tomato sauce is best enjoyed with slices of crisp toast, it's a substantial dish that should leave you replete.

Potato perfection married with peppery sausages and saucy sweet onion

If you're a potato head, then the Rosti Potato with Sausages (RM15) comes highly recommended. Crisp at the edges yet softly textured towards the centre, the delicious pan-fried grated potato patty comes served with sauteed peppery sausages in brown gravy.

The ultimate breakfast platter with eggs, toast, sausages, ham, beans & sauteed greens 

Heartier appetites may prefer the Ultimate Brekkie (RM18) - a platter consisting of two fried or scrambled eggs, turkey ham and sausages, homemade baked beans, rosti potato and lightly sauteed greens with wholemeal toast. Special mention must be made of the baked beans which definitely didn't come out of a can but painstakingly prepared on premise. They're less sweet and not as mushy. The greens sauteed with earthy sliced mushroom should go down well, giving you your first serving of veg for the day.

Fresh & fruity pancakes drenched in syrup and enriched with butter

The saucer-sized Fluffy Pancakes (RM12) are made-to-order and appeared in a petite stack. Personally I would have preferred the syrup served on the side but others may beg to differ. Other accompaniments for this airy light treat include butter and fresh fruits.

Boost your morning with a healthy Fibre Juice smoothie made with real juices and fruits

We also sampled two blends of Fibre Juice (RM9.50) to prep our tummies prior to breakfast. Don't moan or groan over Granny's Favourite - it's actually a healthy concoction of green apple, celery, pineapple and lemon to kick start the day.

Smoother but no less nutritious is Anana-cado which has banana and avocado whizzed with milk and mint for a richer, indulgent drink. You probably can survive half the day on this alone if you're not incline to eat anything upon waking.

Flicking through the a la carte menu, I notice a decent selection of Appetisers (RM12 to RM35), pasta (RM20 onwards) and mains (about RM42 onwards) that should keep non-fussy diners amply filled and satisfied.

Someone told me the steaks at Table Talk are worth savouring too but for me the proof of the pudding is always in the eating. For now I'm sure Table Talk is as keen as any newbie eatery out there to get a taste of sweet success. All it needs is a chance to prove itself. Not such a tall order is it?

TABLE TALK, 4, Jalan Datuk Sulaiman, Taman Tun Dr Ismail. Tel: 03-7733-7718

DELICIOUS PAGE TURNER

Author Kim Inglis was given the enviable task of taking passionate foodies on a gastronomic journey in print to YTL Group's hotels and resorts. The project entailed delicious forays that took her to Malaysia, China, Japan and Europe, documenting signature recipes of each property and the group's culinary 'wok stars' led by Corporate Executive Chef Wai Look Chow. Danish shutterbug Jacob Termansen captured vivid insights of the different luxury hotels and resorts under YTL.

According to Dato' Yeoh Soo Min, Executive Director of YTL Corporation, the tome published by Talisman Publishing features recipes that were conceived to ensure avid cooks can recreate the plethora of dishes in their own home kitchens.

To give guests at the book launch delicious snapshots of the recipes found in the book, we were whisked off to the Third Floor Gallery at JW Marriott Hotel KL for a sumptuous dinner.

 Shook! signature amuse bouche of Stir-fried Prawns with Hot Mayonnaise Sprinkled with Honey Glazed Walnuts was the night's befitting curtain-raiser. Springy and succulent, the crustacean's natural sweetness was enlivened by a light coating of buttery mayo dotted with crushed honeyed walnuts.

From Gonbei San, crispy chunks of Soft Shell Maki and Kaki Agebonoyaki; an artful layering of contrasting textures but harmonious flavours lulled us into believing we were in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Reeling us in after that was the prized catch of Steamed Fillet of Saltwater Barramundi with Bird's Eye Chilli, Roasted Baby Eggplant and Pumpkin Sauce from Fisherman's Cove. It was a showcase of subtle, delicate nuances occasionally punctuated by the fieriness of tiny chilli bits. Nice and memorable.

 

I couldn't decide if the Pressed Chicken Sauteed with Grilled Asparagus, Jasmine Rice and Lime-Coconut Veloute by Shanghai could be pigeonholed into a specific cuisine. There were Indian, Chinese and Continental nuances all rolled into the creation that left my palate a little confused.

Gariguette Strawberries in A Crunchy Pastry with Light Vanilla Cream was my favourite dish by far that night but heck, I'm a sweet-toothed mama so this really hit the spot for me. Paired with a glass of chilled Italian prosecco, it was enough to send me up to cloud nine.

We went home happily replete, totting a goodie bag filled with a comp copy of A Perennial Feast. For those who are keen to lay their hands on a copy, find it at Kinokuniya, Borders, MPH Bookstores, Times the Bookshop and WH Smith. It's priced at RM125 per copy.

FEASTS AHOY!

Abundance from the Sea...a succulent Sea Cucumber overflowing with delicious stuffing

Never mind if you don't have sea legs...Restoran Extra Super Tanker will ensure us landlubbers remain on course for a slap-up meal the minute we set foot on deck.

The CNY period is especially hectic for this Chinese restaurant with the resident chef who's fondly known as Ah Wah Kor storming the galley with a flood of hearty, unpretentious but irresistible and auspicious specialities that is guaranteed to make waves.

For a prosperous start to the Lunar New Year, reap Abundance from the Sea (Moon Joi Yue Qwai) - Sea Cucumber Stuffed with Diced Scallops, Mushroom, Water Chestnut, Celery, Carrot & Garlic (RM200). Thick, slightly gelatinous yet bouncy smooth, every mouthful of the 'jee poh sum', delicately accented stuffing and delightful amalgamation of textures left us at sea on how to describe its deep-seated, earthy deliciousness.

Turbot in Two Styles goes swimmingly well with a glass of crisp white wine

Enjoy Smooth Sailing All The Way (Yat Farn Fung Su'un) with the chef's sublime creation of 2 Styles Icelandic Turbot (RM12.80/100g; each fish usually weighs about 1-1.3kg). It was the show-stealer at our preview...fried to crisp, golden perfection we literally fought over the crunchy bones even as we were reeled in by sweet, tender pieces of Shao Xing wine-suffused fish and crunchy, wavy whorls of wood ear's fungus.

Nice change...Yee Sang with Crispy Whitebait

Another bait that should lure hordes of festive revellers is the evergreen Yee Sang (RM68 - half portion, RM88 - full portion) despite its less flamboyant colour palette. Not only is Ah Wah Kor adamant that only freshly shredded vegetables and fruits: cucumber, radish, mango, pomelo sacs, Chinese parsley, ginger, jelly fish, carrot, lotus root and kaffir lime leaves are used, he decided to go against the flow by adding deep-fried crispy Japanese white bait just before serving in place of the usual raw fish slices. The result? A refreshingly light fruity ensemble that boasts an edgy textural dimension that was sorely missing from other versions in the market.

Fit for a mandarin...Superior Bird's Nest & Fresh Crab Meat Soup

Instead of wading into controversial waters with servings of shark fin's soup, the chef charted a different course by offering Superior Bird's Nest Soup with Bird's Nest & Fresh Crab Meat Soup (RM48 per individual bowl) in its place. Unctuous and generously laden with thick strands of bird's nest, chunks of hand-extracted crab meat and roe, the bowl of Kou Kun Hei Yin or A Mandarin's Ascending Flight to Success tasted so exceptional that I daresay the thickened, flavourful broth took all the wind out of our sails!

Airy-light mashed yam basket that's overflowing with edible goodies

A well-loved staple of many Chinese restaurants, the ubiquitous yam basket (popularly known as fatt putt in Cantonese) is reinterpreted slightly. Filled with abundant goodies: scallops, snow peas, carrot slices, cashews, waterchestnuts, straw and black mushrooms, the aptly named Treasure Trove Yam Basket (RM48-medium, RM58-large) is fashioned out of thinner but no less scrumptious, melt-in-the-mouth mashed yam to prevent it from being overly cloying. With a poetic Chinese name, Phoon Moon Phutt Moon which means overflowing basin of abundance to boot, what's not to love?

Spiced prawns...such piquant pleasures

Fancy laughing all the way to the bank? Then you can't go wrong with a serving or two of Tiger Prawns with Chef's Special Sauce (RM10/100g minimum of 300g per order) - a dish that not only will evoke cheery smiles all around but also Hee Har Dai Siu or happy, rapturous laughter thanks to the splendid pairing of crustaceans and Ah Wah Kor's trademark sauce blend that has superior soya sauce, 'tau parn cheong' (spicy bean sauce), garlic and ginger in it.

A hearty delight that bowled us over

Adding further merriment to the extravagant CNY line-up is Hei Heng Yong Yong or Auspicious Happiness, a superbly rustic speciality of Braised Lamb Pot (RM80 for 12 pcs). You either give the gamey and rather gristly chunks a wide berth or push the boat out by picking the bones clean. Spiked with Chinese wine and ginger, us gluttons had no qualms wiping out the whole pot within minutes. I find the rib-sticking, voluptuous flavour good enough on its own though the side dip of 'fu yue' or fermented bean curd gives the meat a deeper, brinier and more pronounced dimension that tends to sear itself into the gustatory memory bank.

Waxed meat rice to woo the palate

If there's one dish that gets everyone into the same boat, it has to be Lap Mei Farn or Waxed Meat Rice (RM70 per pot for 4-6 persons, RM95 for 8-12 persons). Pork and liver sausages, belly pork and duck come together to bestow their big, bold and unabashed overtones onto claypot-cooked rice; its simple yet unpretentious goodness remain an irresistible allure come every Lunar New Year. At Extra Super Tanker, you'd find the unexpected but welcomed addition of 'nga ku' (arrowheads) to this treat.

Pear with me...

To soothe and sweeten the palate after the array of savoury specials, it's best to sit back and sip languidly on a whole Double-boiled Snow Pear with Hasma (RM16 per person). Don't cringe or balk at the thought of downing the snow frogs' opaque, subtly gelatinous glands as they're beneficial for replenishing one's vital essence in the lungs, kidneys, and improving skin complexion.

Stick with me pumpkin

Seal your feast with some deep-fried sliced Nin Koh with Pumpkin (RM4 per pc, minimum of 4 pcs) - a rewarding solace for fervent hopes that upwardly progress and success shall be yours once the golden pieces of batter-coated sweet glutinous rice cakes and sliced pumpkin are down the hatch.

In order not to miss the boat on these titanic temptations, it pays to call at least a day ahead and inform the restaurant that you'd like to sample all or some of the culinary masterpieces featured here. Bear in mind that with CNY still in full swing, it's best to put your oars in asap!

Extra Super Tanker Restaurant, 48, SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03-77267768 / 03-77267769

LET'S GO POTTY

Di Wei doled out a potted feast of goodies for its CNY preview recently and we were among the lucky few who got a generous sampling of it.

The piece de resistance that took centrestage was Poon Choy. Literally translated, it means basin of goodies in Cantonese. Legend has it that this treasure trove of a feast was created to honour a Chinese emperor who sought shelter from a storm in a remote fishing village. Despite the rural folks'  own hardship, they managed to pool together their scant bounty in a wooden basin which resulted in an unexpected luxe offering that befitted their royal guest.

This hearty dish started to gain a local following during the CNY period a few years ago, with different chefs  lending his own touches to the speciality. Of course the presentation nowadays is more refined; the multiple layers yielding a veritable range of seafood, meat and vegetable items.

Chef Thian Taik Yong sets out to impress by placing premium seafood such as Australian abalone, dried scallops, sea cucumber, semi dried oysters, fish maw and prawns on the upper most layer. These sumptuous treats are sublime and hit the spot well; their deep-seated oceanic sweetness and cornucopia of slippery, bouncy and chewy textures soul-satisfying good.

 

Working our way through to the other layers underneath was like going on a treasure hunt ...every scoop elicited squeals of delight as we took turns digging into the huge bubbling pot. We found bamboo pith, fish cakes, mushrooms, pork knuckle, roast duck, roast pork, chicken, waxed meat, seamoss, tau kan, yam and radish. With so many ingredients thrown in, the gravy tasted out of this world. Priced from RM388++ onwards (available in two sizes), you'd need to give the restaurant a day's advance notice to order the Poon Choy for eat-in or takeaway. 

Earlier we had a boisterous round of loh sang to stir up hopeful wishes for prosperity, luck and fortune with a plate of Di Wei's Yee Sang. Featuring 18 ingredients and a special sauce concocted from green apple puree, we discerned hints of warming ginger and sweetness of snow pear amidst the hodge-podge of pickles, crisps and fresh julienne of vegetables.

Leaving nothing to chance, Carol Chin who's the Empire Hotel's marcomm lady ensured our lunch included a big claypot of Waxed Meat Rice - a customary delight that no rice-loving Malaysians can resist. Especially when it comes laden with waxed meat, liver and pork sausages and waxed duck. Laced with a fragrant concoction of soya sauce, you can scarfed down bowls of it in one sitting.

For the sweet toothed, CNY is the season for Nin Koh - the sticky sweet glutinous rice cakes that are sliced and either steamed and served with grated coconut or fried after being lightly dipped in egg batter. The chef opted to embellish rectangular pieces of the festive sweet with dessicated coconut and crushed peanuts while another serving came coated with sesame seeds.

To accompany this traditional delicacy, we were plied with Red Bean Soup with Glutinous Rice Ball (its centre has a liquidy filling of black sesame paste). A perfect round-off to our prosperous feast!

The above dishes were taken from Di Wei's CNY menus which are for 4 - 10 persons at RM388++ to RM1688++ until February 25. For reservations, call tel: 03-5565 1288.