NOW AND THEIN

 

Seafood emerges as the main bait to lure discerning diners at Lai Poh Heen; their dominant presence clearly noticeable in the latest a la carte line-up unveiled by Chef Ricky Thein recently.

Out of the seven-course tasting menu that we were feted to, only two dishes were non-seafood items not that we minded. Ironically, the star of the sampling show turned out to be the aromatic Spring Chicken with Preserved Red Beancurd (nam yue) - deftly deep-fried to crisp perfection, the juicy, tender chicken boasted crackling crunchy skin and piping hot, moist meat suffused with the distinctly lusty sweet-briny accent of nam yue. Although I'm not big on breast meat, I like it enough to pick the bones clean.

The best supporting dish rightly belongs to the Braised Seafood Treasure Broth with Whole Abalone. Slightly unctuous on the palate, the sweet, clear broth is generously strewn with sea cucumber strips and threads of dried scallops. One can hardly fault this sumptuous offering, not when a whole abalone dotted with shiny black globules of caviar takes pride of place in the centre of the soup plate. Supple yet resistant to the bite, every mouthful of it is likely to transport you up onto cloud nine.

 

As a young kid, the dish I eagerly looked forward to at Chinese banquets is the appetiser platter especially a four seasons dish. I still yearn for those delectable retro bites of hai chou (crab and minced pork balls drenched in a sweet and sour sauce), fluffy stir-fried omelette with shark's fin threads and poached silken chicken in aspic.

Chef Ricky Thein knows first impressions count hence his Lai Poh Heen's Appetizer Platter didn't disappoint. My favourite is the Steamed Prawn Mousse filled with Scallop wrapped in slender tapes of omelette and adorned with some crunchy tobikko (flying fish roe). The ensemble's delicate nuances, a meld of seafood sweetness, eggy richness and the roe's subtle brininess are as Cantonese as they come.

The second creation of Crispy Fried Prawn with Kataifi Roll was a tad messy to eat but delicious nonetheless. I like the unexpected surprised of soft, powdery yam stuffed inside the springy prawn. A small dollop of fine mango salsa and watermelon lends a refreshing dimension to the palate-pleaser.

I think the chef played it rather safe with the classic combination of duck and mango. Bundled up into egg roll skin, the Smoked Duck and Mango Spring Roll is predictably acceptable, helped along by a smidgen of hoi sin sauce - the ubiquitous sweetish/briny/tangy/faintly spicy dip made from soybean paste, salt, various spices, garlic, vinegar, sugar and chilies.

While the Braised Cod with Pumpkin and Preserved Vegetable (shuit choi) pushes the envelope a little, it wasn't overly revolutionary. Maybe Chef Ricky feels some restraint is necessary in view of how local diners can be averse to anything that test their comfort zone too much. The pairing of cod and pumpkin is admittedly quite novel and surprisingly good; both proffering distinctly different degree of softness. Also better to lose that starchy sheath coating the fish and rely on its inherent smoothness instead to pull the dish together.

Thick and plump, the Wok-fried Fresh Scallops with Enoki Mushrooms in Homemade Spicy Seafood Sauce were a marriage of textures and flavours. Piled atop a bed of glistening jade-green blanched baby bok choy, the supple Aussie scallops were slippery smooth; their natural sweetness spiked up by the chef's robust XO-style seafood-based condiment.

Impressive is the first word that came to my mind when I saw my portion of Crispy Egg Noodles with King Prawns and Cheese Broth. The nest of noodles, artfully deep-fried so that the crisp wisps  fan out like illustrated rays of the sun, came surrounded by a pool of thick, creamy cheese sauce and a king prawn tucked snugly in the centre. Think of it as sang har meen with a Western twist. Safe to say this lush speciality will undoubtedly sit well with today's pizza and pasta crowd. I'm a purist who reckon the classic Cantonese egg sauce is irreplaceable but I'm just an old fogey when it comes to food.

 

A majestic pulled and spun sugar dragon sculpture on a platter of candies and pralines heralded our serving of dessert - Crispy Chinese Herbal Jelly with Honey, Avocado Puree and Pumpkin Cake. All three get my thumbs up especially the battered Chinese herbal jelly that's reminiscent of CNY nian gao. I'm a sucker for avocado and pumpkin so I took to both treats like bees to honey.

Appetizers and soup in the new a la carte menu are priced between RM36 and RM108 while main courses hover between RM32 and RM288. Desserts are priced from RM16 to RM280 per order. Prices subject to 10% service charge and 6% government tax.

Lai Poh Heen, Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. Tel:03-2179 8885

CHICKEN LICKIN' GOOD

Naked ambition...cheesy salad sans burrito

Let's get naked at Peruvie - a spanking new Peruvian grilled chicken restaurant in Taman Tun Dr Ismail! Now before you folks get the wrong idea, I'm just waxing lyrical about the outlet's Naked Burritos (RM12.90, add in chicken for RM16.90), a scrumptious melange of chopped capsicum, cucumber, tomato, lettuce, sweet corn kernels, spiced beans, cooked rice, sour cream and cheese sans the usual wheat flour wrapping. Stir everything up and the rich, unctuous mixture becomes a wanton treat.

We descended on this eatery recently at the invitation of Penang Village's proprietress Connie Su. So what prompted the owners to venture into this little known cuisine? According to Su, they wanted to introduce something new to the local F&B scene and the robust, diverse flavours of Peruvian cuisine caught their imagination.

 

Traditional woven fabrics, ceramic hens and eathernware for that homely touch

"We also noticed there's growing interest in ethnic cuisine around the world," said Su. "Did you know that Peruvian cuisine share many similarities with Malaysian food? It comprises an interesting mix of European, African and Asian influences and the country's abundant supply of coastal seafood and tropical fruits are not that different from ours."

To cuckold Malaysians into their Peruvian offering, they decided to crow about the Peruvian-style grilled chicken and presto, Taman Tun Dr Ismail residents now have a taste of the Peruvie Peruvian Grilled Chicken's delectable 'fowl play' right in their own backyard. Its relaxed, casual dining approach and reasonable prices also added to the 'coop' de grace.

Technicolour interior of Peruvie

Horizontal wooden slats painted bright blue lend a charmingly rustic feel to the interior whilst clusters of ceramic hens and earthenware, potted planters of greenery and colourful ethnic wall murals amplify the place's homely surrounds.

We were feted to ice-cold glasses of Sangria - a tantalising concoction of orange, apple and tropical fruit juices with apple cider vinegar; a godsend for the scorching weather we'd be experiencing lately. It also aids digestion since we were treated to a chicken licking good feast!

Peruvian Chicken Soup for the soul...good to the last drop!

The Peruvie Chicken Soup (RM6.90) may appear defying simple but there's no doubting the heartwarming broth's wholesome goodness. Needless to say we slurped up the mixed vegetables, shredded chicken and rice right down to the last drop after perking up the soulful soup with a squeeze of fresh lime juice.

Reminiscent of our Sarawakian umai (raw fish salad), the Ceviche (RM10.90) we sampled had been tweaked slightly for local palates. Instead of sliced raw fish, the tart, tangy salad consisted of chopped lettuce, sliced onion, red and green peppers, cilantro and diced mango with sliced cooked prawns for pragmatic reasons.

How does the star of the show - the Peruvian Grilled Chicken stand up to scrutiny? Very well I must say; the chicken which is first roasted and then grilled to order was juicily tender and deeply imbued by its flavourful marination of cumin, paprika, black pepper and oregano.

This coconut milk infused rice with a serving of grilled Peruvian chicken will leave you in a flap

Servings come in quarter (RM9.90), half (RM18.90) or whole bird (RM36.90) with or without two side dishes complemented by a choice of normal red or spicy sauce and Aji Amarillo Sauce (RM2), a green sauce of blended coriander with green peppers. The  fiery red sauce is piquant with a muted nuttiness while the spicier version is zingier without being numbingly hot.

Side dishes at RM5 each range from French fries, corn coconut rice, coleslaw, potato salad, butter sweet corn to tomato & cucumber salad can be ordered separately. 'Farn tung' (rice-loving enthusiasts) should opt for the rich coconut milk-based rice, best described as the Peruvian take of nasi lemak. The young and young at heart will find the Sausage Strips & Chips (RM8.50) satisfying enough to placate their finicky palates.

Chicken and Salad for those who prefer a carb-free meal

Quinoa - the current grain of choice for health nuts makes an unexpected appearance in the guise of Crema Volteada Con Quinoa (RM7.90), a baked custard layered with palm sugar syrup and coconut milk. Think of it as sago pudding with a pleasantly gritty crunch.

Personally I find the typical Peruvian dessert of Arroz Con Leche (RM6.90), rice milk pudding heavily accented with cinnamon and vanilla agreeable enough. Admittedly it's something of an acquired taste as us Malaysians rarely consume sweet permutations of rice unless it's glutinous rice.

Find Peruvie Peruvian Grilled Chicken at no. 1, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-7725-7223

THAI HIGH

Lup Chup...delicate fruit-shaped Thai dessert made from mashed mung beans and sugar coated in a light gelatinous skin

Hailed as one of the top restaurants in The Miele Guide, Erawan marks its 5th Anniversary with a big splash, coinciding with the recent Songkran Festival last Sunday. Having impressed all and sundry from day one, this fine Thai eatery has grown so much in stature that diners are compelled to make prior reservations and pre-order their dishes before they set foot there. Oh, you'd better show up on the dot at the appointed hour or else...Word has it that Erawan rarely accepts walks-in because all the food are single-handedly prepared by Chef Korn using the freshest ingredients based on orders received.

Your gateway to Thai gastronomic heaven is through these ornate doors

A cosy nook outside Erawan that serves as a waiting area for diners

An intricately carved side cupboard inside the restaurant

A sense of welcoming homeliness prevails inside; handpainted wall murals serve as a pretty backdrop for the numerous pieces of intricately carved side cupboards and rustic furnishings, elephant figurines, whimsical leafy and floral chandeliers, vases of fresh flowers and artistic accents in the form of paintings and collectibles.

Brace yourself for a blooming great time when you dine at Erawan

Elephant figurines capture the true essence behind the restaurant's name which refers to the gentle mahout

Wall of fame...extensive media coverage has boosted Erawan's popularity to new heights

Dine in comfort tucked away in this cosy corner

There was no hiding my ecstatic delight when long-time friend Marian Eu invited us to attend Erawan's Songkran celebrations. It was a good excuse to finally see what's the fuss about...living in another far-flung corner of Klang Valley, we rarely ventured to Kota Damansara due largely to the horrendous city traffic and limited parking.

Arty elements such as this wall decor lend extra charm within the eatery

The co-owners, Anan and Joanne welcomed us warmly whilst we waited in anticipation for lunch to be ready. This year, Chef Korn opted to go with a Thai Khanom (canape-like snacks) theme so dainty morsels of savoury and sweets were aplenty. The tapas-like offerings provided perfect fodder for avid shutterbugs too.

A feast for the eyes and later...our palates

Saku sai moo...chewy and savoury delight

One of the interesting tidbits we had was 'saku sai moo', translucent steamed sago balls with savoury,  caramelised pork and crushed peanut filling, topped with fresh coriander and fried minced garlic. Another was juicy pineapple wedges topped with tasty minced chicken, preserved white radish and ground roasted peanuts...so simple yet chockful of flavours.

Stuffed pineapple to tickle the tastebuds

 

Various types of Thai glutinous rice dessert creations by Chef Korn

True to its name, the chef also whipped up several fusion canapes: smoked duck with a robust curried dressing, banana blossom salad with maguro, Thai-style seafood salad, grilled wagyu with piquant dressing, salmon & carrot rolls, skewers of grilled chicken with pineapple, prawn paste with lemongrass, salmon & cucumber rolls and golden "net" parcels of beef and Thai salad amongst others.

 

 

Little dishes of Thai laksa - 'khanom jeen' with mixed herbs and veges filled us up. A choice of fish curry and green chicken curry was served to go with the rice noodles. It was an enticing combination of sweet, spicy, mildly bitter, briny and tangy flavours coupled with the richness of coconut milk in the gravy.

Different condiments laid out for Khanom Jeen.  

The service team also dished out bowls of full-bodied, soul-satisfying good beef noodles. The clear broth and tender chunks of beef were lapped up within minutes to the last drop. Stupendously yummy!

Thai dessert is always fabulous to sample and Chef Korn spared no efforts in conjuring up a mind-boggling selection using glutinous rice, coconut milk, mung beans, grated coconut and eggs. We were gobsmacked by the colours, textures and painstaking work that went into their making. That the chef and his team had put in tons of passion, care and love was simply an understatement.

Sweet black glutinous rice and coconut milk broth with lychees

Foy thong...delicate cocoon rolls made from spun threads of duck egg yolks and sugar

Sweet temptations courtesy of Chef Korn

What an eye-opening and invigorating experience it was for me. Beyond the exquisite viands, I understood there's an artist at work here who produces sublime creations that please our stomachs and serenade our souls. Now, that's definitely worth its weight in gold. This is one Songkran celebration that I'd remember forever.

Erawan Classic Thai & Fusion Restaurant
22-1 Jalan PJU 5/16
Dataran Sunway Kota Damansara
47810 Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03-6141-2393