DINING LIKE NOBLE-EAT-Y

Pig out...a-bun-dant good eats await at Noble Mansion

There's always a good story behind good food...that's Chef Justin Hor's core philosophy and he's spot on. The savvy director and group executive chef of The Oriental Group is a great story teller with the ability to weave interesting anecdotes and insights into a plethora of signature specialities at the group's latest chapter - Noble Mansion.

Posh space...Chinese cuisine reaches new heights within this refined restaurant

Designed to showcase refined Chinese creations for special banquets and private dinners, the posh and artfully furnished interior befittingly mirrors that of an opulent mansion. Several themed private dining rooms, some complete with karaoke facilities are included but it was the central dining enclave that took our breath away with its stunning centrepiece - a bespoke, complex light installation.

Stunning light adornment to turn heads

"We have many set menus that give first-time diners an overview of what we offer," said Justin Hor who joined us for dinner that evening. "The set menus serve as a sampling of sorts, an introduction of what's good. By their second and subsequent visits, diners will know what to order. Another selling point here is most of Noble Mansion's specialities are drawn from Shunde, Guangzhou - a place famous for its Cantonese dishes and wing chun martial arts that's popularised by exponents like Ip Man."

Shunde inspirations given inimitable twists here

At the lavish preview, we feasted like nobility; each dish competed for our attention with such imaginative pairing of ingredients and inventive approach that our heads were left spinning from all that creative sparks. 

Dainty servings of Liver Sausage Char Siew Rolls (RM16 per person), Smoked Vegetarian Spring Roll (RM8 per portion) and Japanese Cucumber with Minced Ginger (RM8 per portion) started the ball rolling.

        

Roll call...porky curtain-raiser to tickle the tastebuds

As expected, the scrumptious porky rolls left us in rapture over their delicious richness. We even polished off the crunchy cos lettuce tossed in a creamy, peppery dressing and skinned cherry tomatoes that had been marinated a day in preserved asam boi (preserved salted plums) sauce. Yes, they were that good!

 

I like the hotness of the chopped young ginger heaped onto the chilled, matchstick-thick Japanese cucumber batonettes. The dish's pared down simplicity was an amalgamation of stimulating hot and cold contrasts on the tongue.

Another delicacy to get wrapped up in is the smoked vegetarian spring roll - an epitome of delicate flavours and subtle crunchy textures that served as a light precusor to pique interest and leave one wishing for more.

 
Whetting our appetite further is the incredibly addictive Premium Anchovies & Starfruit in The Oriental's Cincalok Sauce (RM14 per portion) - it's hard to stop nibbling on the juicy chunks of starfruit with crispy, caramelised premium anchovies in a zesty XO-type sauce.  

Stick em up...delectable pork cheek skewers

Then dollops of the amber hued lemongrass sauce accompanying the well-marinated BBQ Pork Cheek on Skewers (RM12) lent a barely discernible citrusy accent to the bite-size morsels; something that would have gone fabulously with a glass of crisp white wine. Darn, Kajang satay will never be quite the same ever again after this...

Prepared for a good shelling...

A real palate-pleasing prawn star

Trust the Chinese to draw out the best in seafood and the Steamed Fresh Water Prawns (RM28 per person) with 8-year old Xiao Shing wine was a perfect example of such ingenuity. Everyone got half a prawn each, the doneness superbly succulent; its inherent sweetness enlivened by some creamy organic egg yolk sauce.

Perfect bait to land fish enthusiasts

Reeling fish lovers in is Shunde Style Steamed Ocean Garoupa (RM330) perked up with superior soya sauce, black beans, sliced garlic and some sliced pickled red and green chillies. I particularly enjoyed the ribbons of translucent flat noodles that soaked up all the flavourful juices exuded from the firm fleshed fish. 

Understandably, in Shunde, the original version is much simpler so Chef Hor has jazzed it up by giving the dish extra colours and greater depth using local accents. He also told us that the chewy noodles weren't identical to the ones in Shunde but the closest alternative he deemed acceptable.

C'mon, let's go the whole hog eh?

A whole roasted suckling pig (RM330) prepared Macau-style was brought to the table which we fell on after the photo session like hungry wolves. The crisp, crackling skin shone that like lacquer and the layer of well-seasoned, slightly briny meat left us almost gasping in orgasmic ecstasy at every bite. We learned that the chef's secret marinade is so closely guarded that Hor himself personally doles it out each day.

Three's company...the land, sea and sand represented by the pig, lobster and chicken ;D

More robust nuances assailed our palates with the appearance of the majestic treat of Lobster with Chicken and Pig's Stomach in Spicy Sauce (RM80 per portion for 4-6 persons). It was akin to eating the perennial steamed village-bred chicken ramped up with the luxurious addition of lobster meat and toothsome slices of pig's stomach. My only complaint was there was too little of this to go around especially the piggy part!

All cut up and gone in a blink

We had a double dose of suckling pig - this time with stuffed with some steamed Glutinuous Rice (RM330), turning it into a substantial dish that left us replete. I was especially happy to be given extra spring onion florets as their bracing sharp nuance helped to counter and balance out the indulgent meaty richness.

Layers of perfection...slivers of crispy pork crackling with glutinous rice

Some Braised Wolfberry Shoot (Gaugei) with Eggs (RM28 per portion) then brought a hint of green to our dinner. The leaves' mildly bitter after taste was tempered by the smooth egg sauce. Hor opined it is imperative to get the saucy texture right "similar to that of soft boiled egg".

Green is definitely in

To cleanse our palate, glasses of lemon and starfruit juice were proffered. It was a welcome drink that we appreciated for its tart, refreshing tanginess.



The lavish banquet also had us twirled around Rice Noodles with Abalone Sauce (RM28 per portion, good for 4-6 persons). The dry-fry rice vermicelli came with shredded crabstick, beansprouts and pungent Chinese celery (something I loathe). After all that stupendous dishes we had gobbled down, this noodle was a little unassuming and failed to excite despite the play of different textures. I still lapped up every bit of it though...

Apple of your eye with lots of goodies to boot

Chilled Sweetened Fuji Apple with Snow Jelly, Gingko, Fresh Lily Bulb and Red Dates (RM13 per person) and Longevity Piglet Bun (RM28 for a serving of 4 pcs) rounded up our dining affair with sweet flourish. The dessert broth was light and mercifully mildly sweet while the whimsical piggy shaped buns complete with blushing pink cheeks just begged to be eaten. 

Look ma, it's a piglet invasion!

The filling even had an element of surprise in it for instead of just pure lotus seed paste, we discovered salted egg yolk in the centre...it was again a playful dimension of tastes and textures. These whimsical buns can be ordered for birthdays and other family celebrations ahead of time.

Thank you PureGlutton for this delicious opportunity to hob nob with the Oriental Group's marketing team whose hospitality is greatly appreciated.

NOBLE MANSION, 1st Floor, The Plaza @ Jaya 33, No.1, Jalan Semangat, Section 13, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Tel: 03-7932 3288 

LOT 10 HUTONG'S GLOBAL AMBITION

The modern metropolis that's Guangzhou - gateway to Greater China

Come August 2013 those residing in Guangzhou, China will have a chance to enjoy fried Hokkien mee, chicken rice and other typical Malaysian hawker's fare with the opening of Lot 10 Hutong Guangzhou.

Chua Lam with Angel Wong - emcee for the Lot 10 Hutong PC

Renowned celebrity food critic, author, TV producer and media host Chua Lam - Lot 10 Hutong’s International Brand Ambassador even flew in to Kuala Lumpur recently to announce the globalization of Hutong in Guangzhou, China in conjunction with the opening of “Layumcha” from Hong Kong and Tai Lei Loi Kei from Macau at Lot 10 Hutong KL.

According to Tan Sri Dr Francis Yeoh CBE (2nd from right), managing director of YTL Corporation Berhad, the debut of Hutong Guangzhou will serve as a catalyst for the brand to conquer Greater China as the Chinese's growing appetite for its unique Nanyang heritage cuisine.

Headed by Mr Ralph Hu, Zhujiang New Town Development is the new CBD and financial center of Guangzhou, China’s third largest city after Beijing and Shanghai. An ultra modern megapolis with a population of over 104.4 million people, Guangzhou is the region’s gateway into China.  

Chua Lam explained that “Hutong - situated on level one in the Fuli Yingxin Building - is directly accessible from the main entrance. Its modern, designer chic space will feature 19 Malaysian heritage brands spread over 2095 square meters. On the upper level, the Tsai Lan (or Chua Lam) City of Fusion Foods will offer premium gourmet delights, dry and wet food from Hong Kong and Taiwan.”
 

YTL Group Managing Director, Tan Sri Francis Yeoh and Executive Chairman,Tan Sri Yeoh Tiong Lay

Tan Sri Francis Yeoh said “After being away across the Nanyang for centuries, we have not forgotten our cultural and culinary roots. Today, we are proud to bring the culinary legacies of Nanyang’s best comfort food to share with folks, friends and fellow countrymen back to our homeland.”
 

Crowd puller...the new Tai Lei Loi Kei Macau Pork Bun outlet at Lot 10 Hutong KL

“For years Malaysia has been importing food products from China. Now, with Hutong in Guangzhou, the reverse is happening - we are exporting our secret heritage recipes from the Nanyang to appeal to Chinese palates everywhere in the world” he concludes.

The new Layumcha outlet at Lot 10 Hutong

Opened in December 2007, Lot 10 Hutong was conceived to share the Malaysian legacy with today's younger generation, as a reminder of their cultural roots and culinary heritage in the face of urbanization, and the profusion of western fast food and other alternatives.

Raise the red ribbons...(left-right) Tan Sri Francis Yeoh, Chua Lam, Executive Chairman Tan Sri Yeoh Tiong Lay, VP Of YTL Land & Development Joseph Yeoh and Chef Xing Kor of Layumcha

After the press conference, all the VVIPs present adjourned downstairs to perform two opening ceremonies: the first at “Layumcha” (“The Etiquette of Tea Appreciation”) - a new dim sum tea house headed by Master Chef Xing Kor from Hong Kong and the second, Tai Lei Loi Kei - Macau's renowned Pork Chop Bun.
 

The VVIPs posing with Ms Wendy Chan of Tai Lei Loi Kei

From our sampling of the crispy, chunky deep-fried Brazilian pork chop, we find the pork chop has a rich and mellow taste. The secret lies in the eatery's homemade marinade - an inherited recipe passed down from two generations that includes brandy and Portuguese spices in it. Sandwiched in between crusty buns with that are baled in a wood-fired oven to render them crunchy on the outside but soft inside, the meat is moist and flavourful to the bite without any other condiments. 

The pork chop can also be sampled with Macau-style wantan meen or steamed white rice, with an additional fried egg if desired. Other specialities to savour here include curried fish balls, fried chicken wings and serradura - a delicate Macanese dessert made from whipped cream, condensed milk and crushed Marie biscuits.

HIGH ON GRANNY'S FAVOURITES

*Continuation of our Buka Puasa reviews highlighting top five dishes from five hotel buffets

For a city born and bred gal like me whose roots are firmly entrenched in KL, I can only imagine the convivial atmosphere of a Malay kampong especially during the breaking of fast and festive Hari Raya celebrations. 

That's why I never passed up the invitation to buka puasa at The JW Marriott Kuala Lumpur. Set-up to mimic the vibrant atmosphere of a typical Malay kampung, the hotel's chefs work hard to replicate 108 of nenek’s (granny's) traditional recipes and some 30-odd modern interpretations for its annual buka puasa buffet throughout the holy month of Ramadhan.

After scouring the colourful collection of gerai – rustic wooden stalls where a wide assortment of goodies are laid out, our top 5 picks comprise:

1. Ikan Panggang

Grilled fish fans will be reeled in by the freshly barbecued selection of local fishes such as cencaru and kembung marinated in piquant spice paste. Enjoy these delicious offerings with dips of sambal belacan, black soya sauce with chilli or tamarind juice with sliced shallots and chilli.

In addition, there's a whole lamb roasted on a charcoal spit plus tandoori meats and seafood to please both young and old alike.

2. Satay 

A definite hit with many guests as the pots serving these meaty skewers were perpetually empty. The tender, flavourful chunks of beef were so scrumptious they barely need dipping into the ubiquitous peanut sauce. Those who eschew beef will find the chicken version equally outstanding.

3. Daging Salai Masak Lemak dengan Bachang

A distinctive dish that you should look out for is Daging Salai Masak Lemak dengan Bachang, a rich beef curry cooked with bachang or horse mango, a tropical mango-like fruit that tempers the coconut milk richness with its inherent tartness.

4. Sambal Udang dengan Petai

This is one dish that makes its presence 'smelt' due to the inclusion of pungent petai (stink beans). Their strong scent and unique flavour add a unique dimension to the fiery red, spicy prawn sambal, making it thoroughly enjoyable for those who relish this rustic delicacy.

5. Tepung Pelita

Another evergreen kuih that will delight sweet-toothed fans with its delicate green and white layers encased in square pandan leaf vessels. The jade-green rice flour mixture is coloured and scented with fragrant pandan leaves whilst the creamy coconut milk topping is slightly salted for contrast.

Tempe Goreng Bercili

Of course, granny's comforting selection isn't limited to just five. Notable favourites that hark back to hearth and home include sup ekor (oxtail soup), tempe goreng bercili (compressed fermented soya bean cakes stir-fried with chilli), rendang kerang (dry cockles curry), tongkeng ayam goreng (fried bishop's nose), ikan keli kuah lemak (catfish in turmeric and coconut milk gravy) and ayam masak merah (red curried chicken).

Ayam Masak Merah

Sup Ekor

Sweet endings range from freshly sliced fruits and bubur (legume porridges) to ais kacang and customary treats such as kuih bahulu (dainty sponge egg cakes) and wajik (steamed glutinous rice cakes with palm sugar).

Sticky but yummy Wajik

The JW Marriott Ramadhan buffet is priced at RM75++ at the Poolside and RM65++ at the 4th floor Starhill Conference Centre. For reservations, please

call +603-2719 8666.