GASTRONOMIC WEEKEND ESCAPADE

It was an invitation too good to resist…not only were we invited to revel in the lap of luxury at Pangkor Laut Resort (PLR) for a weekend but also to dine with the Perak Chapter of the Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs, an international association of gourmands and culinary professionals.

After meeting up with Felicia and Jie Ling of YTL Hotels & Resorts at The Majestic KL, we were soon whisked off to PLR in a comfy MPV. Time passed in a blink of an eye since we stayed glued to our smartphones and tablets all the way with WiFi connection provided by the YES hubble.

Excitement grew as the private island, with its white sandy beaches and two-million year old rainforest came into view. VIP treatment in the form of chilled mocktails and towels, to refresh us in the tropical heat.

After a late lunch at the Royal Bay Beach Club, we retreated to our sumptuously appointed room for a brief respite from the scorching afternoon. 

(top) The breezy interior of Royal Bay Beach Club (bottom) the outdoor pool adjacent to the outlet

Light lunch of sushi to satisfy growling tums

Fish tacos that are easy to eat...delicate flavours and textures abound

Seafood laden fried meehoon

The rustic air-cond villa was sheer bliss for us to hide from the sweltering afternoon and lulled us to snooze the afternoon away.

All too soon we had to adjourn to the pristine Emerald Bay for champagne and cocktails, just in time to catch the sunset. Meanwhile newly appointed Executive Chef Stevie Jones and his team were hard at work preparing a lavish barbecue dinner by the beach.

The PLR team certainly outdid themselves, laying out a majestic feast menu that included ultra-fresh Prawn Tikka Skewers sourced from the nearby Pangkor Island, and the Spit-Roasted Whole Lamb inspired by the Chaine des Rotisseurs’ origins in 1248 as an association of roasters. 

Known for his philosophy of using fresh, sustainably-sourced and simple ingredients to produce delicious dishes, Welsh-Australian Chef Stevie also proffered lobsters, prime steaks, lamb cutlets, satay, squid and prawns.

Besides Mediterranean-style salads, appetisers and starters, we supped on soup while a dessert sampler completed the extravagant affair. The battalion of attentive staff who fulfilled our every whim and fancy even managed to meet some last-minute requests for freshly sliced fruits.

The resident colony of flying foxes aka fruit bats

A thundery rainstorm the following morning washed away plans for the intended jungle walk by the resident naturalist. After a long, languid breakfast at the Feast Village, we spent a restful morning at The Library, a serene haven where cushy sofas and four-poster day beds on raised platforms are available for guests to lounge around on. It is also the only place at the luxe resort with WiFi connectivity.

For lunch, we hitched a ride on the resort's shuttle van to Chapman's Bar which is sited next to Emerald Bay. Lulled by fully satiated tummies and idyllic surrounds, we slumbered the afternoon away and woke just in time for the sunset cruise.

Our no-so-rich and not-so-famous lifestyle got slightly upscale when we were invited to board PLR's teakwood junk for a sunset cruise. The hour-long expedition took us around the island, giving us fab glimpses of the private villas nestled atop the hills from the sea, bathed in the golden hues of dusk. The crew also had us in stitches with their recollections of Pavarotti's visit and tales of monkeys' business that wreaked havoc with unsuspecting PLR guests.

The Chaine's Amical Dinner was handled by youthful 25-year-old Chef de Partie, Jérémy Blanchot at Fisherman's Cove which had stunning night views of the Straits of Malacca. He acquitted himself with great panache at the open-air kitchen despite having half the experience of other veteran chefs, drawing inspirations from his culinary forays to Penang and putting his head together with his local team.

 

Yellow fin tuna with scallop complemented by beef reduction, mango chutney & papaya

Pangkor lobster bisque with laksa 'infusion' & prawn dumpling

Sous vide North Pacific sable fish with lala in coconut curry, chilli & watermelon

 Grain-fed beef with fondant potato, olive tapenade & red wine reduction

Mascarpone mousse with Kahlua cream & cocoa

 Each course was paired with fine wines selected by Ms Ming Ho, Senior Executive Director of Sunway University & Sunway Education Group.

Chaine members present at the dinner included Ms Elizabeth Lee (2nd from left), Bailli Regional de Perak (President of the Perak Chapter); Vice-Conseiller Gastronomique and General Manager of Le Cordon Bleu, Malaysia, Ms Wendy Lewis; Vice-Charge de Presse, Baillage de Perak, Dato’ Steve Day and Datin Su Day from the Baillage de Kuala Lumpur.

I couldn't have asked for a better wrap-up to my maiden sojourn at PLR - a heavenly spa experience at the award-winning Spa Village Pangkor Laut. Despite my initial apprehension, the Signature Pre-treatment Ritual at the Bath House soon left me floating on cloud nine.  

The trademark Campur-Campur treatment which blends Malay and Thai massage techniques coupled with Asian-style scrubs, baths and aromatherapy is guaranteed to banish all the aches and pains of everyday life. Heady scents of lemongrass and pandan leaves permeate the air as a traditional pouch of steamed herbs are pressed along the body prior to the soothing massage.

We savoured a light lunch at the Jamu Bar before heading off to the jetty for departure. It was a heartening sight when a group of PLR ever-smiling staff stood in line to bid us farewell, their warm hospitality dulling the painful return to reality as our speedboat took us back to the Marina. The only thing on our mind as we headed back to KL is our silent vow to return someday to the idyllic paradise.

Plan your own holiday at Pangkor Laut Resort by calling the YTL Travel Centre at +603 2783 1000 or email: travelcentre@ytlhotels.com.my.

MASTER OF THE GAME

They say never trust a thin chef but make that an exception to the rule where Chef Roy Wong is concerned. Kim Ma is an understated magnet that draws discerning gourmands, the well-heeled and connected through its doors; most of them ardent fans of of the Executive Chinese Chef who prefers to let his Chinese cuisine artistry speaks for itself.

His exquisite amuse bouche of Half Boiled Egg with Japanese Mushroom pressed home the vital point with plenty of pomp. Softer than custard and seductively scented with the rusticity of dainty shimeiji mushrooms, this delicacy is something that you won't forget in a hurry. An ace up his sleeve to fete regulars and VIPs, Wong varies the topping; usually veering from foie gras, abalone or pearly roe depending on his choice and mood.

The restaurant's updated look where matte gold and silver hues merged with minimalist opulence sets the stage for Wong's judicious selection of Chinese specialities. Whether it's bite-size dim sum or fantastical Michelin-worthy dishes, a meal here belies the chef's passion and creative fervour.

Like a canny wizard, Wong teased us with three signature dim sum creations: steamed angled loofah dumplings with superior broth, the classic siew mai adorned with truffle and sumptuous steamed chicken roll with morel mushroom.

Weight-watchers would love the angled loofah and minced prawn filling encased in a slightly chewy, translucent dough. The subtle flavours are further perked up by the superior broth that comes with it.
Textural contrasts and earthy accents are noticeably evident in the chicken roll which mixes chicken meat with chopped morel, deep-fried yam and carrot batonettes in a woodsy porcini mushroom sauce.

The prawn and black mushroom dumplings are springy to the bite, with added crunch bestowed by the garnishing of shrimp roe and spring onion while the sliver of truffle giving it a subtle musky aroma. Served a la carte for lunch on weekdays and brunch (10 am onwards) on weekends from RM10++ per item, the delicate morsels should go down a real treat.

Now this is one of those rare times when I don't mind being in the soup...a sip of Wong's Double-boiled Minced Chicken Broth with Fish Maw, Conpoy and Black Chicken Quenelle (RM45.50++) is enough to convert me into a fan. Even more amazing is the ethereally soft 'beancurd' base in it...which is actually blended chicken meat! The black chicken quenelle with chopped waterchestnuts provides an unexpected crunchiness to the smooth and delicate textures of the fah kaw (fish maw) and dried scallop. This symphony is completed by a long crispy baton of deep-fried beancurd sheet rolled with chopped fresh black and button mushrooms and mashed potato. The chef deserves a standing ovation I tell you!

Taking a leaf from the Italians, Wong reinterprets the ravioli by fashioning his own using Hong Kong (low gluten) flour to create the Chicken Ravioli; stuffing the flour skin with fried shredded egg, chopped morel mushrooms and prawn paste (RM32.50++)and serving it with sublime porcini sauce.

We were also treated to his famed signature Pan-fried King Prawns with XO Sauce (RM48++ per portion) - an indulgently rich speciality that's sinfully succulent and unctuous down to the last nook and cranny of its shell.

Lest you think Wong is only good at high brow dishes, he proves he can rustle up homespun fare with his Housemade Tofu with Diced Chicken & Salted Fish in Claypot (RM28/42/56++ depending on portion size). Inspired by the evergreen ham yue fah lam pou (salted fish with belly pork in claypot), this hearty offering makes no apologies for its strong flavours and bracing aroma; perfect to go with plain white rice.

Lighter nuances emerge from the subsequent Stir-fried Broccoli with Sweet Corn Yam Puff (RM8.50++ per individual portion); aptly demonstrating the chef's ability to ramp up or tone down the spectrum of flavours in his repertoire. Surprisingly, the dish wasn't as bland as we had anticipated as bursts of faint sweetness are discernible in the sweet corn kernels and chicken broth that was used to blend with the yam and basil seed sauce. Differing textures come from the composition of little yam puffs, crunchy basil seeds and broccoli florets in the dish.

There's nothing ho-hum about the Fried Fresh Mushroom Rice with Baked Garlicky Cod (RM33.80++) either. Loaded with rustic fungi nuance, the rice came cylindrically molded and complemented by a square slab of cod topped with creamy garlic sauce and a baby tomato to form a visual feast.

For the sweet finale, Wong conjured up Chilled Snow Lotus Seeds with Mango Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream and Black Rice Crispies (RM12.50++). Another stunning creation that left us in wonder and brimming with respect as the puffy beras pulut hitam crispies and unusual suit leen chee (snow lotus seeds) got our jaws chomping away in between spoonfuls of fast melting ice cream and mango puree.

The dishes mentioned here are available a la carte as well as in various set menus priced between RM1,688++ and RM3,388++ per table of 10 persons.

For reservations, call KIM MA Restaurant, tel: 03-8944 3784. Address: Palace of the Golden Horses, Jalan Kuda Emas, Mines Wellness City, Seri Kembangan, Selangor

Double-boiled Minced Chicken Broth with Fish Maw and Black Chicken Quenelle (RM45.50++) - See more at: http://pureglutton.com/kim-ma-restaurant-palace-golden-horses-chef-roy-wongs-revamped-menu#sthash.aeQkxCp7.dpuf

Softa Soft-boiled Egg with Japanese mushrooms