GOING CUBAN AT QBA

After warming up with QBa's signature Mojito and Caipirinha cocktails, Timbal de Pollo Y Sopa Fria de Tomate (RM21) got us off to a rollicking start. The mound of chicken with pineapple and raisins was tossed in lightly creamy yet flavourful cilantro aioli; best eaten with shards of sesame flecked lavash and washed down with Chef Alfredo’s briny-zingy summer vegetable gazpacho.

We were whisked off to Cuba on a culinary journey to mark Qba's new revamped menu and the return of chef Alfredo Hernandez to the fold. According to Latin Caribbean food expert Hector Rodriguez in Aboutfood.com, Cuban food is heavily influenced by Spain as Cuba is the first and last Spanish colony in the Caribbean. Havana was an important trading port in the colonial era and immigrants from southern Spain bestowed Cuban dishes with their Andalucían roots. Roots and tubers such as malanga, potatoes, and yucca as well as starchy plantains, bananas and rice are common.

Now you can explore the vibrant flavours of Havana till 22 August 2015 at Qba Latin Bar &Grill. Guest chef Alain Mendiola from Hotel Saratoga will be dishing up a plethora of Cuban specialities on his maiden foray to Malaysia so you should make haste and try his signature dishes before the promotion ends.

As one of Havana’s iconic landmarks in the vicinity of the restored Historic Colonial Site, Hotel Saratoga has played host to notable A-listers such as legendary guitarist Jimmy Page, Beyoncé and Jay-Z. Executive Chef Alain is responsible for keeping his jet-setting guests happy with culinary delights that meld Cuba’s bright, multi-spice flavours with a more contemporary approach.

Among the comforting eats served is Salsa Perro (RM33) which reminded me of a non-spicy Thai white tom yum. The comforting broth of seabass fillet, onion rings, leek & fennel is subtly rich but its coconut milk base was enough to magnify the delicate herbal accents and the seabass’ inherent sweetness.

Substantial enough to be a main, the starter of Calamares en su Tinta (RM26) or calamari rings in black ink sauce with vegetables and blonde beer pilaf tasted similar to risotto. We thoroughly relished the tender squid prepped in its inky sauce - a nice contrast to the creamier pilaf.

It was interesting to taste the difference between plaintain and banana chips in the main course of Tasajo de la Bodeguita (RM45). The former - drier and crispier –went hand in glove with the sofrito beans rice. Sofrito - sautéed diced onion, garlic and cumin with vegetables and spices/herbs – forms the flavour foundation in Cuban dishes such as rice with black beans. A show-stopper in its own right despite its secondary role.

We sniffed appreciatively when enticing aromas rose out of our Pargo Caimanera (RM50). Cooked en papillote (in a parcel), the slab of moist red snapper fillet on a bed of vegetable menestra (stew) spiked with Pedro Ximenez (Spanish sherry) reduction was deliciously ephemeral on the palate but soulfully satisfying.

Our curtain-downer was intriguingly named Pina Colada (RM20) – an edible cocktail made up of sweetened grated coconut topped with rum flambéed pineapple dices on whipped coconut cream. It was a flirty, sultry wrap-up for our maiden Cuban cuisine fling.

For reservations, call Qba, tel: (3) 2773 8338. Address: The Westin Kuala Lumpur · 199 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.

TAI THONG'S FIERY, DARK AND SPICY SECRETS

 

You’d probably have heard of or eaten Beijing duck but have you ever encountered or savoured one that’s set on fire? Now you can enjoy Flaming Beijing Duck (RM88.80) - a speciality that's part of Tai Thong group’s BBQ Promotion which is currently on until 30 September 2015.

Served with Crispy Buns (deep-fried mantou), be prepared for its dramatic presentation at table-side when you order this speciality. Imagine watching a whole Beijing duck roasted to golden-brown perfection set alight, to crisp up the outer skin.

Afterwards, layers of the duck skin and meat are sliced off and stuffed into the crispy buns for you to sample. While you polish off the delectable buns accompanied by requisite florets of spring onion and sweet bean sauce, the remaining duck is whisked off to be stir-fried into a second dish.

At a recent preview, we were also treated to Baked Jade Perch with Chilled Garlic & Pickled Cucumber Sauce (RM68.80 until 31 August). Gherkins or pickled cucumber was the secret ingredient which amped up the fish’s fresh sweetness. Steamed fish fans should make a beeline to this long-standing Chinese dining bastion for a taste of this gastronomic delight.

 

Tai Thong’s newly introduced Black Temptations dim sum selection (available until 31 October 2015) is guaranteed to turn you towards the ‘dark’ side. Crowd-favourites include a slightly chewy Pan-seared Dumplings with Fish Paste and Cheese (RM9.80) – a yin-yang dumpling with pretty crimped edge stuffed generously with gooey cheese and fish paste. Eat this piping hot for maximum satisfaction.

The ardent durian fan in me went ga-ga over the Charcoal Buns with Durian & Salted Eggyolk (RM9.80). Similar to popular lau sar pau (buns with molten salted egg yolk custard filling), these charcoal-black buns packed powerful flavour punches with the inclusion of potent durian paste mixed into the stuffing.

More chewy goodness can be found in sweet creations of Glutinous Dumplings with Sesame Paste (RM6.80) and the duo-toned Chilled Coffee Jelly (RM5.80). Both look equally presentable; the former wrapped in pandan leaves and the latter subtly sweet with alternating layers of black and milky brown jelly.

Come 1 November 2015 till 31 January 2016, look out for the inventive Spicy Series to fire up your tastebuds. Expect tummy warmers like Spicy Dumplings in Pepper Soup (RM9.80) – the clear soup is peppery on the palate while the ‘sui kow’ dumpling is almost bursting with a zesty stuffing of prawn and chicken mince.

Alternatively, there are Pan-seared Spicy Dumplings (RM8.80) with tiny filigree-like fins to tantalise you. Bearing a similar filling of chicken and prawn, they are flavourful enough on their own without any dips.

Heartier appetites would like the substantial portions of Chicken Bun Nyonya-style (RM10.80) and Seafood Curry with Puff Pastry (RM11.80). The first is a fresh take on the current gai wor pau (beehive buns with glutinous rice filling and chicken); only in this instance, turmeric-scented yellow rice and a Nyonya-inspired dry curried chicken are paired with the outer bun shell.

A domed puff pastry baked to golden perfection crowned the bowl of Seafood Curry with Puff Pastry. Gently break up the layer of crisp pastry and dunk it into the aromatic gravy for a satisfying meal. We found the curry a tad oily but the resto peeps promised they’d rectify the hiccup before the promo commences.

For more details or reservations, call 1800-88-2338 or visit www.taithong.com.my

www.taithong.com.my
Or call 1800-88-2338 for reservations.
- See more at: http://pureglutton.com/whats-new-and-nice-in-tai-thong-restaurants#sthash.Olajfhf5.dpuf

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE AT VLADIMIR'S

 

My maiden encounter with Russian food was forged by Troika, a fine Russian restaurant in Jalan Raja Chulan yonks ago where its dark wood panelled confines set the stage for exquisite dishes befitting the czars. The lush deliciousness of its beef stroganoff and borsch remained indelible in my food memory bank till now.

So I was excited when a good food buddy roped us in to check our Vladimir’s Place recently. Ensconced in one of those regal colonial bungalows that are fast disappearing from our city’s landscape, the almost a year old Vladimir’s Place is possibly the one and only Russian resto in KL.

At the helm are Ukrainian chefs Vladimir Anuchin and Dmytro Koba (both too shy to appear on camera) whose stints in the US are serving them well here. Ornate multi-prong, gilt-trimmed chandeliers, heavy wine-red draperies and corniced ceiling lend the interior an opulent feel; the warmly lit dining room spacious and comfy enough to fit 70 diners or more.

Due to the country’s harsh weather conditions and sparse resources in the old days, Russian folks are ingenious when it comes to stretching available ingredients further. One of the more interesting dishes is Pork Lard (RM10), little square slices of fatty pork with a light dusting of freshly ground black pepper; a popular appetiser among vodka drinkers who probably can down more shots chewing on this.

Cut the fat by nibbling on classic Pickles (RM13) – a slightly tart and briny trio of shredded cabbage, cucumber (gherkins) and cherry tomatoes. Again pickling and curing of food stuff is common back when refrigeration was non-existent.

Much to our surprise, the show-stealers turn out to be vegetable-based starting with the Beetroot Salad (RM16.50). Strewn with swirls of pickled onions on top, the hodge-podge of diced beetroot, cucumber, potato, carrot and peas grabs us with its fresh, well-balanced flavour gravitas and delicate textures.

‘Herring under a fur coat’ is a more descriptive name for Shuba Salad (RM17) – a colourful, multiple tiered salad made out of potato and carrot cubes in creamy dressing, teamed with furry-cut hardboiled egg and beets. The trump card lies in the small amount of chopped pickled herring at the bottom resulting in a pleasantly agreeable combination.

Another timeless speciality is Olivier with Chicken (RM16.50) which consists of creamy potato salad tricked up with chopped pickles, chicken and peas. We are delighted by the cohesiveness of such humble, simple ingredients in the creation of such a mind-blowing dish.

Simplicity continues to rule with Cold Boiled Pork (RM11) and Chef Salted Salmon (RM15.50) taking centrestage – a stark reminder of how the adage ‘less is more’ holds true. The former has boiled pork sliced thin as paper touched with freshly ground black pepper while the salt-cured salmon is merely dotted with aged balsamic and sprigs of dill to serve.

Possibly the most luxe dish in the repertoire is Pancakes with Red Caviar (RM16). Harking back to the lifestyles of Russia’s rich and aristocracy where blinis came topped with pricey caviar, these hanky-thin pancakes serve as the blank canvas to flaunt the stimulating richness of salmon roe. Less damaging to one’s wallet yet delectable nonetheless.

The art of making do with vegetables is aptly demonstrated in the soupy offerings of Classic Russian Borsh (RM16) and Solyanka (RM17). Beetroot and assorted veges with bits of meat are transformed into a heartwarming broth to satisfy the soul. A dollop of sour cream blunts the tartness and rounds it off.

Likewise, the Solyanka which has a more assertive briny accent is a comforting stew of pickled cucumber, green olives, carrot, onion, lemon, spices and herbs. Equally hearty and just the kind of soup to hit the spot on cold, winter nights…in our case, cool rainy eves.

When it comes to getting more out of scant quantities of meat, Pelmeni (RM19.50) and Dumplings (RM18) are two ways to achieve that. The first – reminiscent of ravioli or even wantans – differs from the second in shape which resembles our curry puffs.

Inside their slightly chewy dough skin you’d find a mixed stuffing of beef and pork. While pelmeni is boiled in a herb-infused broth with a sprinkling of chopped parsley, the dumplings are sautéed with onions then served with some sour cream. Very back to basic stuff that’s amply satisfying despite the specialities’ plain Jane approach.

Not a trace of the smooth pumpkin mash was left after we devoured the Beef Cutlet with Pumpkin Mashed & Truffle Oil (RM28). In this instance, it nearly eclipsed the meat’s leading role although the two mini beef patties are up to scratch in the taste stake.

Beef Stroganoff with Forest Mushrooms Sauce & Potato a la Pushkin (RM28) is a truly classic dish which gained Russia a food hold in the world. Lightly seasoned with aromatic spices and covered in a woody mushroom sauce, the meat complemented by buttered potato and gherkins is something you’d never tire of eating.

Sea Bass with Vegetables Poached in Wine (RM27.50) also comes up trumps; the delicate sweetness of fish melding in harmony with wine and vegetables. 

 

Even non-adventurous diners will find timeless servings of Boned Chicken Kiev Cutlet (RM26) and Pork Steak (RM26) to their liking. Both dishes are deftly prepared with the meat remaining juicy and seasoned to tease the tastebuds.

Happy ever-afters of Apple Charlotte (RM12.50) and Cheesecake with Sour Cream (RM12.50) should bring your visit to Vladimir to sweet conclusion. I love the sweet stewed apple in the first cakey creation which comes with vanilla ice cream.

A touch more decadent is the luscious ‘cheese cakes’ which turns out to be round, creamy cheese-filled pancakes generously smothered in icing sugar. Paired with berry compote, the minimalist dessert tastes unexpectedly good.

For reservations, call VLADIMIR’S PLACE, tel: 03-2144-5636. The restaurant is located at 32 Jalan Inai, off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur