They say life’s a stage and it seems even dining
out has to go beyond the mere act of serving food. Chefs and restaurateurs are
constantly exploring ways to raise the dining experience bar and each meal is a
command performance no less.
Our dessert of Chilled Snow Pear & Seaweed
Ball in Teapot (RM18++ per pot) at The Han Room is a fine example. We were astounded
when the sweet broth came in a matching teapot and bowl set cleverly designed
to delight, adorned with a life-like, semi-3D goldfish at the base. When the broth
is poured into the bowl, it deceives you into believing a goldfish is ‘swimming’
in the receptacle.
It is such little unexpected surprises that make
The Han Room such a popular venue with Chinese cuisine lovers. Renovated in
mid-September 2015 for 1.5 months, the newly relocated resto looks resplendent
with minimalist Chinois chic.
Modern angular pendant lights, plush red carpet
and some cushy sofa seats make The Han Room a befitting venue for weddings and
corporate events. Overall, the cavernous space fits about 28 tables for banquet
seating. Coupled with The Oriental Group’s well synchronised operations, diners
are made to feel welcome and accorded top notch treatment.
My first encounter with the unique vegetable known
as ice plant was in Chengdu last year. Intriguingly, it was originally from
South Africa and was widely cultivated in Japan and China on dry, arid land. Dotted
with fine icy droplets on its leafy surface, the dewy green plant is almost
artificial looking and has great ability to store salt.
It’s also edible but bland like lettuce so when you order the Ice Plant Salad
(RM28++ per portion) here, an appetising dip of sliced shallot, dried shrimps
and chilli gives the crunchy leaves a nice zingy ‘kick’.
Decked with finely diced mango for a touch of
tangy sweetness, the crunchy Prawn & Foie Gras Toast (RM28++ per portion) won’t
go remiss with a glass of wine. It’s a simple but clever marriage of East &
West culinary accents; the usual deep-fried toast with prawn paste switched up
with sliced foie gras for extra luxe mouthfeel.
Porcine fans should find ample succour in the
Crispy Pork Belly with Garlic (RM38++ per portion). We like how the mildly caramelised
garlic pips sweeten the thinly sliced streaky pork while fried curry leaves infuse
the meat with an aromatic scent.
Chef Justin Hor and his erstwhile team have the
knack for turning familiar Chinese dishes into updated temptations – the
Charcoal Grilled Iberico Pork Neck with Garden Salad (RM45++ per portion) bears
testament to this. According to Emily Chiam, our charming host for the evening,
it’s a variation from the highly sought-after soft shell crab salad. The porky serving
came atop a bed of fresh salad greens and some tangy dressing to minimise the
guilt factor.
Peking Duck (RM118++) served with Piggy Buns is
given a novel twist thanks to dainty Instagram-worthy buns shaped like cute
piggy faces; a soft fluffy base for the crisp duck skin. Remaining duck bones and
meat are whisked away to be stir-fried with noodles, resulting in another
raveworthy dish.
Soup fans should lap up the Fish Maw with Yunnan
Ham in Superior Stock (RM168++ for a 4 person serving). Redolent with savoury
umami flavour, we appreciate every spoonful of the superior stock; a salubrious
canvas to showcase the fish maw’s toothsome texture, the soft Chinese cabbage
and the briny taste of fine Chinese ham.
Covered with melted cheese on top, Baked Two Rice
Varieties with Seafood in Pumpkin (RM58++ per portion) is mercifully nothing
pedestrian like those char chan theng
(HK tea house) baked cheesy rice. Enlivened with assorted seafood and pine nuts
in a whole baked pumpkin, be prepared to jettison your no-carb diet for an
irresistibly flavourful crispy rice puffs and fluffy cooked rice.
Dim sum is a hot commodity during lunch (from 11
am) on weekdays and brunch (from 10 am) on weekends and public holidays. The soft
Chicken Mushroom Buns (RM8++ per basket) are fashioned to resemble brown
crackly lined faux ‘mushroom’ caps but the filling tastes lighter on the palate
when compared to regular char siew bao filling.
Health concerns among city folks have also see the
rise of subtly sweet dim sum options and obviously, the Crystal Longevity Buns
with Macadamia (RM8++ per basket) are supposed to fit the bill. Encased inside the
stretchy, translucent tung meen skin similar to that of har gao (prawn
dumplings), the nutty filling borders to the point of blandness on the palate.
Oh well, one man’s dessert is another man’s 'poison' in these trying times.
For reservations at THE HAN ROOM, call: 03-2284-8833. The new
location is T-216A, 3rd floor, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Kuala
Lumpur.
