I'M LOAFING IT!

It was a weekend of good eating. Lunch at The Loaf was utterly memorable - we enjoyed every morsel thus it was one of those rare occasions where everything turned out faultless. Yes, even the service...

Chef James Thong is one of the few young, talented chefs in KL today whom I admire. The lad's creativity is evident from the moment you savour his culinary offerings at The Loaf. Now everyone knows who owns the bakery while scores of others have raved over its scrumptious breads and U hu! hu! cheesecakes. Amazingly, few has any inkling of the delicious secrets that await them at the bistro.

Seared Ahi Tuna garners pole position in the special M'sian Grand Prix menu

It's tranquil and understated dining room can sometimes be pretty well-occupied but the noise level is unlikely to rise to more than an audible hum.

We decided to try the Malaysian Grand Prix Menu - at RM48++ the set seemed like a fab deal with a starter, soup, main course, dessert and a glass of non-alcoholic wine included. The outlet's Oyju Japanese set meals also proved to be equally good value - one set costs RM40, two for RM70 and if you go for all 3 it's RM100. We settled for the Tsubaki and Sumire sets.

Corny but truly irresistible - the 'souped up' cream of corn!

In the pole position is the Seared Ahi Tuna with Mixed Lettuce Salad. Lightly cooked on the outside and rare in the middle, the triangles of rich, meaty tuna was a winner in every bite. The drizzle of velvety, viscous aged balsamic vinegar spiked with miniscule red chilli dices just adds to its sumptuousness. Heck, even the accompanying cheese straw that comes with the cluster of mixed lettuce leaves is unbelievably light, crisp!

As for the Cream of Corn...aaahh...it's the very personification of the word 'sweet' corn. Satiny smooth with a buttery sweetness, this is one soup that packed soulful goodness in every spoonful. Even my nephew who's the fussiest of eaters actually asked for seconds once he tried a sip!

Goodies out of the Tsubaki box

When the Tsubaki set arrived, we discovered it certainly redefined the term 'thinking out of the box'! Packed with five petite-size temptations, we quickly dug in. First was the Cream of Wild Mushroom - served piping hot in a hallowed out sesame bun, both my sis and I couldn't decide which tasted better. They're a match made in heaven!

Our palates were further elevated by the Asparagus Soup - snug in its little, warm country-style bread receptacle, we relished every drop of its clean, slightly brassy nuance.

The onslaught of orgasmic flavours continued with Avocado Chawan Mushi. Warm, silky and rich, the shiitake-infused and avocado-layered egg custard simply seduced the palate with its musky accent.

By now, we were so 'high' that the Smoked Salmon Quiche's ethereal crispness and delectable filling quickly hit the spot while the Crispy Chicken with Curry Mayonnaise ignited the senses with its delicate zestiness.

Simply Oz-some Sumire trio

Pursuant to his brief stint at Salt - one of Australia's top restaurants owned by celebrity chef, Luke Mangan, Chef Thong replicates the famed eatery's signature amuse bouche (appetizer) - Salmon-Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg in the Sumire set. I admit I couldn't find adequate words to describe this sublime creation - you must savour it for yourself to fully grasp the ingenuity of this amazing starter.

Now the Boiled Edamame (Japanese green soya beans) may seemed like a no-brainer addition but juxtaposed against the supremely indulgent dish of Prawn Fritters with Spicy Miso Mayonnaise, their no-frills, minimalist note became crystal clear in the overall scheme of things.

The spicy Spaghetti with Deep-fried Battered Prawns

The main course that was part of the Malaysian Grand Prix set we ordered truly deserved a podium finish. Generously doused in a tantalisingly spicy, chunky tomato sauce with subtle tartness, the perfectly 'al dente' pasta can easily be mistaken for a feisty Arrabiatta. Shards of asparagus and springy fresh prawns wrapped in airy 'tempura' batter further livened up the dish's unmistakable appeal.

Luscious dream came true in the cream caramel

Taking the chequered flag in the final lap was a wobbly, satiny smooth Cream Caramel that left us swooning over its toffee sweetness. Complementing it was a scoop of snowy white whipped cream in which hints of coconut and mint were discernible.

It looks like Chef Thong's sterling performance will leave quite a few of his competitors trailing in his wake in the intense race for culinary supremacy. And we're lovin' it!

THE LOAF (pork-free)
Lot 3.13.00 & 4.12.02
Level 3 & 4 Pavilion Kuala Lumpur
168 Jalan Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2145 3036

www.theloaf.net

OUR CNY CULINARY HERITAGE

Time flies when you're having fun and the recent Chinese New Year celebrations were no different! It's that time of the year when one gets to relish traditional festive delights like kuih kapit, kuih bangkit, kuih bakul and pineapple tarts in addition to a whole gamut of new fangled cookies and tidbits.

One of the most sought-after delicacies in our family is these dainty, delicately-shaped cookies which are painstakingly hand-pressed into oblong wooden blocks bearing intricate, recessed carvings (shown above) and baked until light and crisp.



Essentially these kuih bangkit cookies are made from a mixture of sugar, cornflour and tapioca flour, coconut milk and eggs. According to this aunt of mine who really excels at producing the delightful nibbles, it takes years of practice to get the process right.

My aunt even took out the three really old wooden moulds to show us which she inherited from a late Nyonya grandaunt whom we all recalled was a pretty mean cook.



I have yet to come across anyone who could produce such beautiful cookies. Recently my aunt told me that she managed to find some newer moulds in Taiping to be added to her collection. Obviously you can tell these are the newer ones from the wood colour alone but the carved motifs are no less intricate.





I have been wanting to learn how to make them but I know it won't be easy. My aunt has graciously shared with me the recipe - typically the measurements are based on the old school method of agak-agak so I thought I'd note them down just as how she has always found them workable.

KUIH BANGKIT

6 taels sugar
1 coconut (to extract its thick santan)
3 eggs (only 3 yolks + 2 egg whites are needed)
1 kati cornflour (use ABC brand; alternatively mix half with tapioca flour)
extra cornflour for sprinkling

Methods

Dry-fry cornflour over low heat. Stir frequently to prevent it from burning and until the specks of flour start 'jumping' around in the wok. Set this aside. Beat sugar with santan until sugar dissolves. Then add in eggs. Stir in cornflour and mix to form dough. Knead dough until you get a pliable dough. (I guess this is where experience and mastery come in that determine how good the resultant cookie texture will be.) Hand-press a small amount of dough into the wooden mould recesses and bake in oven (unfortunately I didn't get the temperature for this) until the cookies are done.

It's not a perfect recipe but I wasn't keen on pursuing the finer details as I don't want to come across as impolite. She also had other visitors to entertain but later if I ever want to attempt making this, I'd call my aunt to get the other necessary information. For now I'm contented to just eat her handiwork!

ONE NIGHT IN BANGKOK

Dinner and drinks at one of Bangkok's trendy joints are not exactly how one would celebrate a 10-year old lass's birthday. But then this vibrant city's no stick-in-the-mud sort so that cool evening saw a party of us at Wine Bridge Plus, a popular party hotspot right in the heart of the city that attract's Bangkok's young, hip and moneyed crowd like moths to flame.

We sat out by the patio as a stream of gleaming, flashy cars slid past into the compound, all disgorging beautifully coiffured and decked up couples who headed straight into the cosy confines of the bar, club cum restaurant.

A chat with the owner reveals that the outlet opened some 13 years ago just upstairs from its present premise. Business has been so good over the years that Wine Bridge Plus now occupies the space of four shoplots and the best seats in the house are undoubtedly those at the sidewalk. There is always a live band from 9 pm to 12.30 am while amateur singers croon their fave tunes as early as from 6 pm onwards.

Our host admits that the venture started out as a place for entertaining their own friends but over the years, its popularity has soared strictly by word-of-mouth. He laughingly tells us that it has also become known as a happy hunting ground for girls who are out to land themselves a rich husband. In reality, Wine Bridge Plus is more of an exclusive club for the Thai upper crust as many of the young and well-heeled patrons move in more or less the same circle.

"Many of them are actually our friends' children who are out to have a good time. We keep an eye on them when they're here and even help them stay out of trouble," he said. His own daughter who is in her 20s conceptualised the food and drinks so the menu choices here understandably reflect her youthful, cross-border outlook.

Appetisers to whet the appetite include Herbal Fish Patties with Salted Egg Yolk (150Bhat), Pizza Ham & Cheese Spring Rolls with Tomato Salsa (190B), Atlantic Scallop Carpaccio with Ponzu Dressing & Ebi Roe (180B) and Caesar Salad in Cheese Basket (180B).








The sweet, juicy scallops were particularly outstanding, perked up by the tart albeit slightly briny dressing. The tiny globules of prawn roe lent added crunch while a sprinkling of chopped red onion and spring onion zested things up.

Cheese has always been a great weakness of our birthday girl so it didn't surprise us when she kept snucking away bits and pieces of the cheese basket that held the salad of diced apples and what-nots. Another favourite was of course the spring rolls that were filled with more cheese.

But nothing pleases her more than the Baked Spinach in Bechamel Sauce with Cheese Au Gratin (140B). She practically devoured the whole portion by herself and continued to remind me to replicate the same dish for her long after we got home. I think I just hit on the magic formula to get her to eat more greens!



One of the best-selling items that defined Wine Bridge Plus is probably the Japanese Nabe with Red Wine (160B per bowl;550B per pot). You have a choice of beef or pork, sliced paper-thin for dipping into the red wine broth. Other ingredients for the hot pot include carrot, enoki mushroom, asparagus, cabbage, black mushroom, leek, onion, choy sum, beancurd, baby corn and glass noodles.



According to Nichapa (the boss's daughter), the recipe came from her mom's friend who used to work at Santori (the Japanese brewer).

"The broth is bonito-based and red wine is added to it only towards the end. That's why you'd get a delicate brininess from the fish plus the sweetness of grapes once the alcohol from the wine has evaporated."

The tender meat is savoured with Japanese ponzu sauce concocted from sesame and peanut butter. Sukiyaki and shaba-shabu it seem have grown in popularity among the Thais lately so this house speciality has been a mainstay as long as Wine Bridge Plus has been in business. You'd need to have at least 2 persons for a whole pot to be prepared though.

We also recalled partaking a delectable Prawn Spaghetti with Spicy Basil Pesto (170B). Adorned with crispy bacon bits, the pasta was slurpiliciously fiery to tantalise the tastebuds but not enough to numb it to susbequent dishes.

Our lavish feast rounded up with Banana Fritters with Caramel Sauce (80B) which saw honey-sweet bananas covered in crisp, light batter and drizzled with luscious caramel. Of course there was the ubiquitous birthday cake - made from Haagen-Dazs chocolate ice cream no less!



We don't know who went home happiest that night - us for that memorable meal or the little one who had her fill of cheese and chocolate!

WINE BRIDGE PLUS
99/15 - 16 Lansuan Balcony Road
Lansuan Soi 6-7 Langsuan Road
Lumpini Bangkok 10330
Thailand
Tel: 0 2251 7767

GREAT THAI-DINGS

Amazing Thailang best describes our many delicious discoveries in Bangkok and Pattaya. Street food is king here - if you truly want to eat what the locals eat then nothing beats the humble streetside offerings.

We chowed down on BBQ pork skewers, mini pancakes filled with shredded pumpkin and deep-fried chicken drummets en route to check out the shopping scene. There were tons of other stalls proffering coffee, economy mixed rice, fried noodles, fruits and iced drinks...

Lunch comprised bowls of hearty noodles in soup with sliced roast pork, meat balls, sliced kidney, fish balls, sliced fishcake and fried fish skin. Flat rice noodles similar to kuay teow but more slender in size were my favourite. The clear broth is good on its own but tastes better when perked up with the ubiquitous fish sauce, dried chilli flakes and lime in vinegar. Sliced red and green chillies are also available at many stalls. Bowls of granulated sugar are served to douse fiery-hot spiciness if need be.





In Pattaya, we stumbled upon a noodle stall tucked away in a sidelane. The premises are spotless as are the tables and chairs.







One of the best tasting specialities has to be Sticky Rice with Mango. For mere 50 Bhat (RM5) you get a generous portion of steamed glutinous rice topped with a whole ripe mango sliced for easy eating. It was such a heavenly treat that we had this twice in a row! The glutinous rice has a splendid soft chewiness about it and the mango was juicy and honey-sweet.







I also had a super-hot encounter with a Catfish Salad. It was a briny, tart, mildly sweet and extra spicy dish that literally made my hair stand on its end and broke out in a real sweat.



My other half and I also polished off this delectable pot of glass noodles with prawns. It costs 450 Baht (RM45) but we reckon it was worth every Baht - just look at the size of those fresh succulent prawns!

A VISUAL AND PALATABLE FEAST

Sometimes us Klang Valley denizens seem to take this habitat of ours so much for granted that we remain blind, deaf and dumb to some veritable treasures ensconced within its very core. Like the look out point that's nicely tucked away in one little corner somewhere between Ampang and Hulu Langat...you can call it our local equivalent to The Peak in Hong Kong.

After one rainy eve, we actually drove up there as hubby was intrigued to try out the eateries. Truth be told, I was far less enthusiastic - after one too many disappointing run-ins with Malaysian touristy-type attractions, I braced myself for the worst. The falling dusk wreathed in swirling mists gave me the creeps initially but once we found a parking spot, I was surprised to see how busy the place was.

Scores of people were already trekking up to the Look Out Tower while some families and couples milled around the three eateries. A chilly breeze sent welcome shivers down our spines - you wouldn't think it possible after the spell of sweltering heatwave we had been experiencing. I couldn't remember when was the last time I saw our capital city from a fresh perspective but that evening the breath-taking view left me literally speechless.



So when hubby proposed the idea of having dinner at Bread & Olive Cafe, I was sold on the idea. The eatery occupies a two-storey building with a spacious outdoor patio area that accords diners a panoramic view of Kuala Lumpur.



Personally I thought it is more a restaurant than a cafe but I digress. The menu offers an interesting mix of Middle-Eastern fare with Italian, Mediterranean and localised Western as our orders included Lamb Briyani, Stuffed Doner Kebab with Chicken, Spaghetti with Cream Sauce and Chicken Chop with Black Pepper Sauce.



Whaddaya know? The food turned out to be surprisingly good too. The briyani rice was superbly redolent with spices and perfect with the huge lamb shank slathered in rich, tasty gravy that was piquantly spiced but not searingly hot on the palate. Even the salad was better than many mid-priced eateries in KL - with sliced black olives and fresh zesty vinaigrette perking it up.



The huge plate of pasta came generously covered in cream sauce and sliced chicken and mushroom so there was no complaints on this.



I love my delicious Doner Kebab which was packed with shredded lettuce and tomato laced with yoghurt. Even the simple Chicken Chop was juicy and the sauce lusty without being overly starchy.



Overall it was a greatly pleasurable experience which didn't hurt our pockets too much. Of course there are cheaper alternatives flanking this eatery but I daresay Bread & Olive's excellent food and view make for an irresistible combination that is hard to outdo. Especially if you're courting that special someone or out to celebrate a significant occasion.

Bread & Olives Café
No. 7, Lot Perniagaan Komplex Pelancongan,
Menara Tinjau, Jalan Ampang Hulu langat,
68000 Ampang, Selangor Darul Eshan.

CLASSY CHINOZ

Despite these trying times, there is a segment of Malaysians who are recession-proof and don't mind paying for a fine and memorable meal. Especially if it's cheaper than flying to London and dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant like Chez Bruce or a swanky restaurant like Mirabelle or putting on the ritz at the Ritz.

High flyers can now high-tail it to Chinoz KLCC and let new chef de cuisine Haffizul Hashim blow them away with his inimitable culinary prowess. Having spent several years in good ol' Blighty namely London, this Bachelor of Culinary Arts degree holder from Thames Valley University had his baptism of fire at the Ritz. The resilient lad then honed his skills at the Mirabelle and later, at Chez Bruce before his return to hometurf late last year.

Thanks to his former bosses' glowing account, the young chef soon found himself helming the Chinoz team. Full creative licence and new kitchen gadgets were quickly granted by owner Teng Wee Jeh. Chef Haffizul of course repaid the faith by revamping the outlet’s a la carte and Degustation menus.

His imaginative starter of Carpaccio of Blue Fin Tuna with Green Beans Salad and Poached Quail Egg with Basil and Parsley Vinaigrette (RM42++) will leave you hot and cold. It's a special dish in which three varying temperatures – hot, warm and cold converged on one plate with each ingredient’s fresh, unadulterated nuances coming to the fore on their own instead of melding together.



I'm a sucker for scallops and the chef's creation of plump Hokkaido Scallop with Cauliflower Velouté and Cucumber Jelly and Chives (RM42++) is simply awesome. The scallop’s inherent sea-sweetness is unmistakable thanks to the velvety smooth velouté (a basic white sauce thickened with roux, a mixture of butter and flour). The sharp, clean nuances of chopped chives and cucumber jelly provide the perfect finishing touches to this sumptuous dish.



Tiny flecks of natural sea salt were all that's needed to bring out the rich, decadent smoothness of the Pan-fried Foie Gras. Paired with Sweet Corn Puree and Toasted Sour Dough, this is another heavenly speciality which earned praises around our table that night.



If you think fish and red wine seem like strange bedfellows, the combination of Roast Potato Wrapped Barramundi with Seared Hokkaido Scallop, Parsnip Puree and Red Wine Jus (RM68++) with ‘Tenimenti’ Barbaresco Coste Rubin 2000 is guaranteed to change your mind. Chef Haffizul said the secret lies in the parsnip's subtle flinty sweetness in drawing all the other ingredients together.



The Italian red’s sour cherries and plummy accents proved equally apt with the Chicken Ballotine with Veal Sweetbread and Sautéed Wild Mushrooms, Potato and Truffle Emulsion, Madeira Sauce. Now sweetbread (calf’s thymus gland) is not something ordinarily most local diners will devour but I admit it's difficult to discern the uncharacteristic ingredient since it's well tucked away in the chicken ballotine (deboned chicken stuffed, rolled and tied into a bundle before being braised or roasted). The deliciously full-bodied sauce of cepes mushrooms, truffles and Madeira also helps tremendously.



For his final flourish, Chef Haffizul serves up Pineapple Tarte Tatin and Vanilla Ice Cream. I just love the sweet intensity of the pineapple chunks post-baking so who cares if they appear less refined on the eye?

You can sample all these exquisite dishes from Chinoz's latest a la carte or as a Degustation menu priced around RM230-RM250++ per head. I for one is rooting for this young and talented chef - his fresh perspective is definitely something the local culinary circle should be excited about. Malaysia Boleh!

Chinoz On The Park (pork-free)
G47, Ground Floor
Suria KLCC
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2166 8277

A MID-AUTUMN 'FEASTIVAL'

Don't you find the mound of bright orange roe a sight for sore eyes and rumbling tummies? Yes, those miniscule, slightly crunchy pearls are ebikko or prawn roe - most people mistakenly assume these as tobikko or flying fish roe which actually are bigger, more translucent and pricier. We reckon they make such an appetising adornment for the dish of seafood fried rice! I daresay this delectable dish created quite a stir with my whole family last weekend for our Mid-Autumn 'feastival'!



In case you're wondering where did we partake this amazing dish, it was pure serendipity which led us to its discovery. My siblings and I were just racking our brains on where to go for our family feast that wet, wet Sunday ... since Mom has retired from cooking our festive meals, we had to find a place to eat our Mid-Autumn Festival celebratory dinner. Our regular haunt, Restoran 52 threw a spanner in the works earlier when they informed us at the last minute that the outlet won't be open for the day! So there we were, moping around and wondering when the torrents of rain would ceased when we got really captivated at the sight of the two 8TV Ho Chiak presenters scarfing down this dish of fried rice with seafood, egg yolks and fish roe which we thought was rather unique. You could have seen our jaws dropped in disbelief when it was revealed that the eatery is located in Kajang!

To cut a long story short, we were out of the house in a jiffy and headed for the said outlet for dinner!



Besides the Seafood Fried Rice with Flying Fish Roe (that's what the outlet called it anyway), we also ordered Deep-fried Oyster Mushroom, Steamed Tilapia with Spicy Bean Sauce, Homemade Tofu with Minced Pork, Saucy Pork Ribs, Stir-fried Long Beans with Brinjal in Sambal, as well as Shelled Prawns Deep-fried and Tossed with Mayonnaise and Coleslaw. Admittedly, we went a tad overboard but the food portions were not exactly skimpy either for our clan of seven adults and four kiddos.





While waiting for our dishes to arrive, we had a field day drooling over the wall-mounted colour photos depicting the outlet's many house specialities. The dishes are imaginative and varied compared to other no-frills restaurants with selected ones requiring advance orders. More outstanding ones that caught our attention include Shark's Fin Kway Teow, Hairy Gourd Stuffed with Dried Scallops, Tofu with XO Sauce, German-style Crisp Skin Pork Knuckle, Premier Loh Hon Chai (Vegetarian Dish with Assorted Mushrooms and Layered Bean Sheets), Deep-fried Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk, Freshwater Prawns Noodles and Black Pepper Udon.





Overall, the Fried Rice was a hit with everyone especially the kids. The crispy fried mushrooms were great with a piquant and tangy chilli dip but we found the fish a tad too sweet from the bean sauce which literally 'drowned' the fish. The vegetable dish passed muster as did the beancurd. Luckily the pork ribs and prawns proved memorable for their inventive marinade and sauces.





But what's even better is the prices which are similar to that of Restoran 52. According to the young chap who runs the place, his father helms another outlet by the same name in heart of Kajang town by day while his uncle takes over at night. However, he told us that the three of them offer different dishes so we may have to try out the other two as well given a chance. One thing's for sure - this eatery has not seen the last of us yet!

OLD MAN RESTAURANT
CG-1 & CG-2 Ground Floor
Block C Jalan Putra
Taman Putra
Kajang Selangor
Mobile no. 012-3450575, 012-2380575