FRESH MEAT-TING PLACE

Sweet Brazilian treats await

Yummy cuts from Bossa Nova

Take your pick of meat in all types and cuts

Brazilian bites to start with

For the price of a steak, you can beef up on endless cuts of grilled meat at ParkRoyal KL's newly opened Churrascaria rodizios (Brazilian grill) - Bossa Nova.

Its sleek, modern interior boasts large, colourful wall murals with warm ambient lighting and a spacious custom-built dance floor. The idea here is not only to become a dining hot spot but also KL's centrestage for avid salsa and Latin dance enthusiasts to demonstrate their fancy footwork.

Resident passador or carving expert, Chef Marinaldo Monterio Pereira ensures the various marinated meats are grilled to perfection and that diners are kept satiated with endless servings of prime cuts of lamb, chicken, beef and even prawns hot off the grill. Humour him enough and he may just hog the limelight to show you some nifty dance moves of his own.

One word of caution though when you dine here - it's best to pace yourself accordingly if you intend to go the whole hog and attempt to devour everything proffered. As long as you keep that little square beside your cutlery turn onto the green side, the passador will happily continue to tempt you with different meaty cuts. When you have had enough, flip it over to red as a silent signal to 'cut it out'.

The protein-laden mains are pre-empted by an interesting buffet of typical Brazilian appetizers. Heavily influenced by the Portuguese and Middle-Easterners, you'd find many of the delicious starters incorporate black and green olives, lemon juice, fresh fruit vegetables and spices. Noteworthy choices to try include Salgadinhos Coxinha (breaded and deep-fried lightly spiced chicken croquettes), Hearts of Palm with Olives Salad, Raisin Polenta, Sautéed Mushrooms, Mixed Bean Salad and Fish Croquettes.

I like the black bean stew which has smoky and mildly briny dried and fresh beef, and sausages. Known as Feijoada, it is apparently Brazil’s national dish. The proper way of eating it is with Stewed Rice (this has pine nuts and toasted garlic slices in it). The smooth, creamy Potato and Parsley Soup was especially good as were the Apple Salad, Black Bean Dip and Crushed Sweet Potatoes with Parsley.

Do alternate your intake of herbed sausages, chicken ham, lamb, butter fish, tiger prawns and beef tenderloin with the refreshing, zesty salads or Abacaxi (grilled pineapple with cinnamon) to help balance the indulgent meatiness.

Dessert comprises a simple yet scrumptious selection. Top marks go to the Pave de Chocolate (chocolate cookie tart) for its mousse-like texture intermingled with chocolatey cookie crumbs. If you're nutty over nut-filled confections, then savour Cajuzinho, a soft Brazilian candy made from crushed cashewnuts and chocolate. For something lighter, opt for the Egg White Candy which is reminiscent of macaroons with crushed Oreo cookies and Manjar Branco, an enticing coconut flan topped with prune sauce.

Service is efficient but the staff lacks confidence (well, at least for now) on how to guide diners more effectively so that they can be maximum enjoyment from their dining experience here.

Bossa Nova has a seating capacity of 106 persons, inclusive of two private dining rooms and a full bar. The buffet costs RM48++ per head for lunch and RM58++ for dinner - a steal considering what some steak houses in town charges for their meat cuts.

BOSSA NOVA (pork-free)
Lower Lobby Level
Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2711 1199

Business hours: Mon-Fri 12 noon to 2.30 pm, Mon-Sat 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm

PRINCELY TREATS

It has been a long while since my last visit to Prince Hotel & Residence. Their pork-free dim sum has always been decent under veteran Hong Kong chef, Chan Kong Tung (formerly of the Regent KL's Lai Ching Yuen). Recently the hotel welcomes not only a new sifu to churn out these dainty morsels but also Chef Lawrence Eng to helm its Chinese kitchen.

We were indeed lucky to have the chance to sample some of Chef Eng's signature dishes as depicted above. A trio of rather unconventional looking dim sum gave us an indication of what was to come - modern Chinese cuisine with a surprisingly pared-down approach yet cleverly imbued with global, totally Occidental flavours.

Out of the appetising trio, the black har gow (shrimp dumpling) is by far the most intriguing for its simple, squid ink-induced, slightly chewy tang meen skin and springy prawn filling. The miniature parcel actually contains foie gras, pine nuts and minced chicken - wonder if the chef makes the filling rich on purpose since in Thailand, a similar creation is known as money bags? The deep-fried crab claw which totters on the brink of normalcy is saved by its distinctive sauce that is concocted from beetroot, ginger juice, plum sauce, sugar syrup and fragrant oil.

The world's most expensive spice, saffron weaves its magical colour and flavour on the Superior Pumpkin Broth with Crab Meat Dumpling and Dragon Pearls. But the bland wintermelon beneath the dumpling detracted too much of the pumpkin’s muted sweetness. Perhaps it would have worked better had the wintermelon been poached in superior stock beforehand. Despite brimming with chunky crab meat, the sole dumpling also lacks 'oomph'.

Luckily, the subsequent dish of Wok-fried Chicken and Pickled Lotus Root more than made amends for earlier shortcomings. I adore the delicious and subtle fruity sweetness of the rather sticky champagne sauce which coated the fried pieces of boneless chicken. Having the sour tartness and crunchiness of lotus root pickles to temper any cloying aftertaste is truly a brilliant move on the chef's part.

Nothing beats a good piquant sauce and the Hot Bean Sauce generously slathered on the King Prawns dish got the thumbs up from around us. Instead of the usual whole steamed fish, the Seabass Roulade with Enoki, Chinese Chive Flowers and Superior Soya Sauce is ideal for diners who prefer easy-to-eat, boneless fish dishes with clear, unadulterated flavours. Personally I'm not really big on fish so I wasn't too hot on this.

It's best to avoid the Steamed Glutinous Rice and Live Flower Crab Wrapped in Bamboo Leaves if you happen to be dining in polite company. Don't get me wrong - it's a tasty dish as the sticky glutinous rice is simply redolent with the crab’s inherent sweetness. But to get to the crab meat, one has to get to grips with it and things can get really messy here. So unless you have time to devour this at leisure or in the casual company of family and bosom buddies, this dish requires too much work.

Jasmine Tea Crème Brûlée and Baked Lotus Flower Cookies rounded dinner off on a sweet note. The first has this typical French dessert subtly perfumed with the bitter undertone and heady aroma of jasmine tea whilst the second turns out to be a work of art as the baked flaky pastry filled with lotus seed paste is beautifully shaped like a two-toned lotus blossom.

Service befits standards expected of a five-star hotel except during weekday lunch hours. This is when diners may have to try slightly harder to get the staff’s attention as most of them rush around trying to cope with the hectic pace. I personally have had no bad run-in with their service thus far so this bodes well for the outlet.

TAI ZI HEEN (pork-free)
Level 2, Prince Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Conlay 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel - 2170 8888 x 8200

Business hours – Lunch on Mon-Sat 12 noon to 2.30 pm, Sun & public holidays 11.30 am to 2.30 pm. Dinner nightly 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm

TOO HOT TO HANDLE?

Are readers and most importantly, restaurateurs ready for some honest-to-goodness comments and 'tell it as it is' feedback from food critics? Granted, there have been some bouquets but notably there are more brickbats against those who have spoken up in the past. Vilified for being frank ... it has happened to a freelance food writer once. Let's just say nothing good came out of it as the daily she wrote for put paid to any future writings from her once the storm brewed over.

Another point to note is food reviews must be taken liberally with a pinch of salt. Of course restaurateurs and chefs would roll out the red carpet when they know food reviews are being done - it's akin to having the Queen over for tea, going for your first date or attending that crucial 'make or break' job interview. Wouldn't you spruce your home up, groom yourself from head to toe to impress and set out to make a good lasting impression? Sure you would - why should it be any different for eateries and the people who own, operate and serve in them? So I see no sense why people should complain that the media write only positive things in their reviews ... those stories are meant to be just that - a review that serves as a guide on what the outlet specialities are, the philosophy behind the outlet being in existence, what inspired the chef(s), etc. Conclusions on whether the food is good or not must ultimately be left to the consumers themselves - real diners who get to decide ultimately whether it's justified parting with their hard-earned moolah no matter how good or bad the food is as deemed by us reviewers. Remember, one man's meat is another man's poison.

OK, I'm not advocating bad food - there's nothing worse than paying for mediocre dishes that spoil your day and leave you feeling like a bear with a sore head. But I've come to realise there's just no accounting for taste. Otherwise tell me how come some 'not so great' food outlets continue to not only exist but expand all over the place and draw tons of customers? Heck, it's freedom of choice and their customers obviously feel they are getting something worthwhile whenever they eat there.

Having said that, here are some no holds barred comments on recent outlets I'd been to at my own expense:

AFTERNOON TEA AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL KL

Still one of the best places to escape from the city's madness. Its huge picture windows looking out to sprawling lawns and verdant landscaped gardens are indeed balm for the soul. However, the Lounge's latest Afternoon Tea menu left much to be desired. We reckon it's a mistake to tinker with classic stuff like cucumber sandwiches and normal egg sandwiches ... yes, we see the need to be creative but seriously, even I can't stand the current curried egg filling which my kid took an immediate dislike to. Thank goodness the scones remained rich and crumbly as we remember them to be.

The Asian set was no better. Since I didn't touch the offerings for these, I was told only the chicken satay came up to mark. Which was surprising cos the last time we went, nobody had anything negative to say about the Asian selection.

Fortunately service remains exemplary - in fact it was better than before as we found there were more staff compared to our last visit. The few girls on duty in the past used to rush around looking very harried and sometimes failed to see patrons signalling to them for assistance. Now we had no problems getting their attention.

MANDARIN PALACE AT FEDERAL HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR

This grand dame of a restaurant deserves better patronage on weekdays. Younger diners may find the gilded trimmings and opulent setting too overwhelming but we just discovered that all that truly glitters here are the outlet's dim sum gems.

While the who's who in KL are raving over the pricey roast pork in this particular Pudu coffeeshop, we prefer the Mandarin Palace's crispy, delectable version that comes in alternate layers of fat and lean meat. And I can't recall the last time I tasted such scrumptious char siew bao - the cottony soft steamed layer yielded a generous amount of mildly sweet, dark and richly flavoured barbecued pork. Yummy!

It was certainly a memorable lunch as we fondly reminisced over the delectable lor mai kai (steamed glutinous rice with mushroom and chicken), plump morsels of siew mai and har gow, baked chan pow (mini bread-like buns with char siew filling) and ooh...light as air and super eggy dan tart or baked egg tarts. Just thinking about them make my mouth water!

On the day we went for lunch, only two other tables were occupied so service was definitely NOT an issue. It's amazing that hordes of tourists trawling the shops along the Bukit Bintang thoroughfare outside the hotel had no idea such a historical and noteworthy eatery exists within.

For a 50 year old hotel that was completed in time to herald our country's first Merdeka celebrations, the Federal KL deserves better respect and greater patronage.

WILD RICE AT CITITEL MID VALLEY

Unknown to the scores of shoppers of this humongous mall, the adjacent hotel houses a trendy cafe that offers a surprisingly decent buffet breakfast upstairs. Its sleek and minimalist interior appeals greatly to us - we like the floor to ceiling glass facade that accords us a lovely view of its pool, the fitness centre nearby and an elevated dining platform which is bordered by a bank of tall, sinewy bamboo planter boxes.

The spread seems remarkably simple at first sight but we soon found some nuggets to relish. Soft boiled eggs with toast and local kopi o are nice additions to the international selection. I love the scrambled eggs and chicken sausages, muesli and pancakes but the nasi lemak falls a little short of expectations. Pass on the rather dry scones and sliced cakes. The remaining stuff are average tasting but decent enough to stomach at the price we're paying.

Service is better than average, if not better than some established hotels in the Golden Triangle. The staff whips away used and stained crockery quite fast so much so that it's better inform them if you have not finish your food, and intend to nip off to get something else from the buffet.

* * * * * *

There you have it. Three frank overviews of our most recent food jaunts. Keep the bouquets or brickbats coming.

WHAT A GREAT NUMBER!

Dark & delectable...Deep-fried Pork ribs in Beer Stout

Slurpilicious Sang Har Meen

Cut to the chase with 52's Claypot Curry Fish Head

Ever since we were introduced to this outlet, it has quickly become a favourite haunt. Not only does the restaurant serves good food, the pricing is incredibly reasonable!

From the outside it looks like just another corner single terrace house - few would actually have any inkling it's actually a no-frills Chinese restaurant that holds plenty of delicious secrets. Hot sellers here are its Fish Head Curry, Lightly Deep-fried Tilapia, Salt Baked Chicken Wings and Stir-fried Sang Meen with Fresh Water Prawns. And that's barely scratching the surface - the lady boss told us their other specialities include Hakka braised fried pork (char yoke), vinegared pork trotters, claypot ribs with yam, butter squid and hot plate hor fun...are you drooling already?

The Curry Fish Head comes piping hot in a claypot, filled with ladies fingers, brinjal, long beans, cabbage, beancurd puffs and fleshy pieces of fish head in a fiery orangey-red gravy that goes really well with plain white rice. A small portion here can easily feed 3-4 persons or more if you have other dishes thrown in. You can also ask the chef to substitute the fish head with tilapia chunks but it doesn't have quite the same 'fun' as digging and searching for that elusive piece of fish meat off boney creviches.

Even though the cook more often than not tends to overcook the Ribs in Beer Stout Sauce, the shortcoming is easily forgiven thanks to the bewitching, caramelised sauce that clung and enveloped the ribs completely.

When it comes to Fresh Water Prawn Noodles or Sang Har Meen, nothing quite comes up to our gold standard - Sang Kee or what KL-lites used to know as the Tai Shee Tau (under the big tree)...Having said that, 52's version is still above average and perfect to assuage any prawny noodles craving! The crustaceans are of a decent enough size and I would have preferred the fresh egg and wheat noodles to be thicker but heck, it's as good as it comes. Generously doused with a rich, sublime eggy sauce that's not too starchy or watery, the crisp noodles are adequately 'soaked', rendering it nicely chewy but not soggy.

The kids usually go wild over the Chiu Yim Kai Yik or Deep-fried Salted Chicken Wings but you must remind the chef to omit the chopped bird's eye chilli that gets sprinkled on top together with spring onion. Forget that at your own peril - you don't want to go into crisis mode, trying to douse little numb tongues and soothe teary tots! The Claypot Taufoo is another kid-friendly dish which comes chock-a-block with local or Japanese beancurd cooked in a thick, oyster sauce gravy, chopped baby corn, snap peas, diced carrots, mushroom, assorted seafood and sliced pork.

So if you are ever in the vicinity of Semenyih, 52 is a number you should remember. The outlet is easily located along the early stretch of Jalan Sungai Lalang, the same road leading towards Nirvana Memorial Park. Just don't bother going on a Monday since it's their rest day.

Restoran 52

52 Jalan Sungai Lalang

Semenyih Negeri Sembilan

Tel: 87238733

GOOD COOKING AT ZUHO

Slurpilicious Freshwater Prawns in Special Sauce


Loh Mein with Freshwater Prawns & Crabmeat


Nyonya Sambal Fried Cincaru & Okra


Perk up the palate with Fried Kway Teow with Black
Pepper Beef




Hearty, rustic Fish Head Meehoon


Crispy Deep Fried Fish Fillet with Barreto Sauce


Few foodies can resist Sang Har Meen or stir-fried noodles with freshwater prawns. This dish reigns supreme amongst the many hawkers’ dishes available and the only one that can get away with restaurant's pricing!

Now there's a new eatery in Taman Tun Dr Ismail that prides itself in dishing up some freshwater prawn dishes, whether on their own or with noodles or rice. Its house speciality of Freshwater Prawn and Crab Meat Loh Mein (RM25 for regular, RM45 for large portion) is an extremely indulgent offering (forget about cholesterol counting for once).

Braised in a rich, eggy sauce with two big, succulent freshwater prawns, the fat yellow Hokkien noodles tasted out of this world with a dash of vinegar in it. Devour the noodles whilst they are still piping hot though. Otherwise, you'd end up with an unappetising congealed dish as they cool. I'm dying to sample their Freshwater Prawn Braised Yee Mee, Freshwater Prawn Wanton Mee in Fragrant Soup and Freshwater Prawn Meehoon in Nyonya-style Soup.

I have had better Fish Head Meehoon (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large) elsewhere but honestly, Zuho's version is as decent as they come. I prefer lai fun or thick rice noodles for this particular dish but to each her own I guess. What stood out was the fleshy chunks of deep-fried fish head and delicious sweet-tangy soup that has generous slices of hum choi or salted mustard, tomato wedges, sliced ginger and chopped spring onion in it.

The scrumptious Venison Fried Rice Nyonya-style (RM13 – regular, RM22 – large) fares better with me. Who can resist fluffy rice stir-fried with thin slices of venison, aromatic shredded kaffir lime leaves and local spices? I can only presume the Anchovy or Salted Fish Fried Rice, Beef Fried Rice Yong Chow Style and Crab Meat Fried Rice taste equally arresting.

If you like Hong Kong-style korn chau hor or dry-fried flat rice noodles, resident chef, S H Lim or Uncle Lim as he is known amongst staff and customers, executes this with panache. The Black Pepper Beef Fried Kway Teow (RM8 – regular, RM13 –large) remains slippery smooth, nicely separate and fully imbued with the robust nuances of freshly ground black pepper and sliced beef.

For all the farn tung (die-hard rice eaters) out there, Zuho's small selection of home-style dishes make perfect accompaniments to have with plain white rice. One of their specialities is Deep-fried Fish Fillet in Barreto Sauce (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large), a Filipina-inspired dish that comprised crispy, boneless pieces of fish fillet eaten with a tantalisingly sweet, sour and mildly spicy dip that has sesame seeds and chopped coriander in it.

Har loke, a classic prawn dish for many major Chinese festivals, is superbly replicated here. Its Freshwater Prawns Fried in Chef’s Special Sauce (RM30 – regular, RM45 – large) beg to be eaten with your hands to fully appreciate the dark, glistening and full-bodied sauce made from chopped garlic, red chilli, coriander, ginger, Worchestershire sauce, thick soya sauce and spring onions.

Chilli fiends will get fired up over the Nyonya Sambal Cencaru Fish (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large) as the ground chilli paste for this packs quite a wallop. The Kunyit Chicken (RM13 – regular, RM20 – large) and Stir-fried Chicken with Salted Fish (RM13 – regular, RM20 – large) come highly recommended as well.

A surprisingly good Melaka Nyonya Cendol (RM4) consisting of thick, caramelised gula Melaka (palm sugar) syrup, rich coconut milk and short, fat and soft jade-green cendol strands is the perfect conclusion to your meal at Zuho.

With its modern, spartan decor and quick, amicable service, Zuho is definitely worth the (reasonable) prices it is charging.

Zuho (pork-free)
44 Jalan Datuk Sulaiman
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 012-238 8135/016-600 3389

Business hours – Tues-Sun 11.00 am – 3.00 pm, 6.00 pm – 10.30 pm

NEW YEAR WISHES

Been missing in action for some time due to an unbelievably hectic last quarter in 2006. The last quake which disrupted the Net access didn't help either.

Anyway another year beckons with more great dining experiences await! Believe it or not, eating well can be a vice...but heck, it's a blessed task that yours truly will undertake with no qualms whatsoever. 2006 has been a fair year filled with more fabulous food than mediocre eats so overall, it was memorable in its own way.

For those who have been following my food treks, thank you for your support. Stick around and I'd clue you in on what's hot on the dining scene in 2007. Now let the feast begin!

A TOSS UP FOR GOOD THINGS TO COME

Get fresh - and enjoy a fruitful start to the Lunar New Year!


Imagine you're participating in Fear Factor...

'Bean' there? Such luxurious smoothness on the palate

Roast pork - not! It's crispy chicken skin with prawn paste & nuts

Har har - prawns to usher in joyous laughter

It is believed that yee sang or Chinese raw fish salad was invented some 1,500 years ago during the Song dynasty. Traditionally consumed on the seventh day of the Lunar New Year to mark the birthday of mankind, this humble dish has come a long way from its ancient origins. Come every Chinese New Year, local Chinese chefs will vie to bring fresh interpretations to this colourful salad. Over at the Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant at Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur, Chef Chew Chee Keong decides to make it a fruitful head start to the Lunar New Year celebrations with his Tropical Fresh Fruits Yee Sang.

In addition to the mounds of assorted pickles, vegetables and deep-fried flour crisps, Chef Chew has included shredded kiwifruit, dragon fruit, strawberries, honey rose apples, snow pear, young mango, pomelo and rock melon to this ubiquitous festive delight.

Diners can inject ‘liveliness’, ‘abundance’ and 'good fortune' to their order with shark’s fin, pacific clams, soft shell crab or yellow fin tuna, abalone, salmon or jellyfish. They even have a choice of different sauces – Fruity Sour Plum Sauce, Sour Plum with Wasabi Sauce, Spicy Thai Chilli Plum Sauce or plain Plum Sauce. The end result will be a light, tantalising salad redolent with a whole gamut of tangy, zesty, sweet and tart flavours without any cloying aftertaste.

There's nothing like some Sichuanese spices to set jaded palates alight. The Crispy Prawn with Spicy Bean Paste is guaranteed to leave your tongue tingling from its crunchy, spicy outer crust whilst the crustaceans remain deliciously succulent inside. But don't worry, you can always tempering things down with Crispy Stuffed Chicken with Prawn and Shark’s Fin Paste and Deluxe Nut Coating. Looking deceptively like roast pork from afar, this scrumptious speciality proves memorable for its varied textural contrasts and delicate nuances. A robust chilli dip served on the side helps to give extra bite to these springy slices.

Shaped like mini gold ingots, the Homemade Green Puree Beancurd with Seafood and Scallops is distinctive for its top coating of jade green, blended seaweed. The silky smooth beancurd pieces are the perfect foil to emphasise the fresh scallop and minced seafood's inherent sweetness.

The typical Sichuanese delicacy of Fried Spicy Fish Fillet Sautéed with Sichuan Peppercorns is unlikely to be forgotten in a hurry. Unlike the 'in your face' spicy tartness of Thai tom yum, its fiery-hued broth is potent enough to give chilli lovers an instant ‘high’ with its ma la (numbing spiciness) flavour.

For the first time ever, those on a vegetarian diet can also look forward to a sumptuous feast at Si Chuan Dou Hua as Chef Chew has thoughtfully came up with a special Vegetarian Set Menu that will enable them to partake in the festive feasting. One of the specialities, Stir-fried Mixed Fresh Mushrooms with Seven Spices is something that will appeal to even non-vegetarians and diners who want a change from the normally indulgent fare served during this festive season.

All the dishes mentioned are from the different set menus available. The Feast of Abundance is tailored for two persons at RM98++ and at RM318++ for a table of six. For 10 persons or more, choose from its Feast of Prosperity, Fortune, Health and Wealth set menu or Vegetarian Set at RM638++ per table. Small portions of Yee Sang are priced from RM38++ onwards while large portions are priced from RM68++ onwards.

Go on, it is time to go the whole hog at the Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur for a fruitful Chinese New Year.

SI CHUAN DOU HUA RESTAURANT (pork-free)
Lower Lobby
Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2711 1199/2782 8303

AN ITALIAN SOJOURN

Bacco's cosy & intimate setting

Elegant Italian decor by Datin Burna Mirri

Italian carnival favourite, Frappe

Bewitching Fish Dish

Something to stew over!

Omelette with a difference

Less is more with these Mini Pizzas

Light yet tasty Mozzarella Sandwich

Antipasti to kick start dinner

For those in the know, Jalan Yap Kwan Seng is a food haven in its own right. The entire stretch of road boasts of Nyonya, Japanese, European, Indian, Chinese steamboat and Penang nasi kandar outlets so diners are truly spoilt for choice. However, few are aware of a splendid Italian restaurant tucked away in one of the quieter lanes known as Jalan Liew Weng Chee.

Named after the Italian god of wine, Bacco, this understated restaurant is owned by architect Datuk Luciano Mirri and his interior designer wife, Burna who have made Malaysia their home for the last 22 years. Their eatery prides itself on serving rustic home-style Italian dishes that are rarely found elsewhere.

The inimitable style and creative handiwork of Datin Burna Mirri are evident in the hand-sewn table cloths and curtains, and sponge-painted walls within Bacco. Oriental and European antiques, paintings and furniture further enhanced the classic, homely ambience.

Chef Michele Dal Cero from Verona, Italy displays an uncanny flair for staying true to his Italian roots despite this being his first stint in the Far East and having to be mindful of local dietary sensitivities. Antipasti (appetizers) is a must here to start off your meal. We enjoyed sliced marinated mushroom, pickled red cabbage, zucchini, red and green peppers, a creamy tuna spread, olives and sun-dried tomatoes with the two types of breads – onion and truffle and another flavoured with chopped olives.

Italy’s simple, provincial-style cooking is best reflected in Frittata Ai Funghi Con Patate Alla Bacco or Bacco-style Mushroom Omelette with Potatoes. Special mention must be made of the accompanying sauce of boiled egg yolk blended with anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, thyme, lemon juice and salt.

Chef Dal Cero gets back to basics with his Mini Pizzas with a single ingredient to top each miniature dough disc – chopped tomato, olives or grated cheese. It is a great way to savour the pizza’s delightfully light texture and unadulterated flavour of each topping.

The Involtino Di Sogliola Con Salmone (Witch Fillet Roll with Salmon Garnished with Smoked Salmon) is as bewitching as its name. It is hard to fault this dish of baked sole fillet rolled and stuffed with fresh salmon and chopped romaine lettuce, complemented by a dainty roll of smoked salmon. The composition of subtle nuances and myriad textures proved the chef’s consummate skills.

A scrumptious creation served with a distinctive anchovy-caper sauce, the delicious pan-fried Mozzarella la Carrozza mini sandwich would captivate any discerning cheese lovers. Lightly covered in egg batter, it oozed with melted, piquant cheese in the centre.

La Padella Del Pescatore made us felt as if we were dining at an Italian friend’s villa in the Roman countryside. A hearty stew of fish, prawns, squid and mussels, the ingredients are first sautéed in extra virgin olive oil and cooked with chopped fresh tomatoes, garlic, white wine, chili, fresh herbs and black pepper. The deliciously sweet broth, tinged with the faintest hint of tanginess, is best enjoyed with crusty sliced baguette.

A traditional carnival fried pastry known as Frappe gave us another rare glimpse into Italy. Also known as Cenci in Tuscany, Chiacchiere in Lombardy, Crostoli in Venice and Bugie in Genoa, the rectangular paper-thin, deep-fried pastry are served with a dusting of icing sugar. At Bacco, this delightful creation comes with ice-cream and a little warmer of melted chocolate which you can drizzle onto the crispy pastry. The perennial favourite, tiramisu, is also available although this being an alcohol-free version, it may be a tad tame for those who used to the original recipe.

Thanks to Bacco’s niche set-up, service is cordial and impeccable. Bigger groups of eight persons or more should ideally notify outlet manager, Ahmad Radhi Abdul Shukor ahead of time so that the team is prepared to cope with service delivery and food quality.

Datuk Mirri explained, “Good food takes time to prepare. Ample notice is necessary for our kitchen team to plan and work their magic. For our best dishes, the ingredients need to be freshly sourced and everything made from scratch. Some specialities need more than four hours of preparation to a full day’s work. Advance reservations minimize the customers’ waiting time in between courses and this maximizes their dining experience with us. So it’s a win-win situation for both.”

For those yearning for an Italian gastronomic sojourn, Bacco is well worth the trip.

BACCO (pork free)
5 Jalan Liew Weng Chee
Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 21711190

Business hours – Lunch Monday to Friday 12 noon to 2.30 pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday 7.00 pm to 10.30 pm
Closed on Sundays

HELLO HAIRY!

Imperial walk into Shang Palace

Hairy crabs anyone?

Crispy crab & minced meat roll

Oodles of delicious noodles

This year’s hairy crab season clawed its way into international news headlines, triggered by a furore in Taiwan when a batch of Chinese hairy crabs was allegedly detected with nitrofuran, a cancer-causing agent. Consequently, this prompted a Chinese crab exporter to offer a one million yuan (approximately RM469,000) reward to any Taiwanese health inspectors who succeed in finding any trace of carcinogen in other hairy crab consignments as a measure to restore consumers’ confidence.

Back at the famed Yangcheng Lake in the Chinese eastern province of Jiangsu – home of the hairy crabs – counterfeit crabs appeared on the market despite numerous measures undertaken by the Yangcheng Lake Crab Farmers Association to set the real McCoys apart. In Hong Kong, a thief was nabbed by local police after his unsuccessful theft of these gourmet crabs worth a princely USD1,280 (RM4,736) from a restaurant.

These incidents only served to elevate the snob appeal of these pricey creatures. According to The Asian Wall Street Journal food writer, Stan Sesser, some Hong Kongers have even gone to the extent of eating hairy crabs ‘tycoon-style’ – consuming only the deep-orange hued roe found in female crabs without bothering with the rest of the crabs. A sheer waste considering how sweet and sublime the hairy crab meat is, especially when it is skillfully prepared by experts like Shang Palace’s executive Chinese chef, Leung Sing Cheung.

So what's the fuss about? Well, you won't really know until you sampled one of these hairy crustaceans. One of the few truly seasonal delicacies left, no Chinese food connoisseurs will forgo the chance of savouring these distinctive grey-green crabs with furry claws and legs come late autumn.

Local hairy crab lovers can feast on these pricey, princely delights in the Shang Palace’s imperial setting. The splendid six-course menu (RM238++ per person) starts with warm, satisfying bowl of Braised Shark’s Fin with Hairy Crab Roe and Sea Urchin. Not a very politically correct soup to have but ... it tasted oh so good! Thick strands of shark’s fin, egg-yolk rich crab roe, chunky crab meat and delicate sea urchin - they make an unbeatable combination.

The piece de resistance – a whole hairy crab steamed the traditional way – is first cut up with surgical precision by the staff for easy eating. What a luxury it is to simply scoop up the scrumptious roe from within the top shell and devour the sweet, fleshy crab meat from the crustacean’s spindly legs.

Surprisingly the claw meat turns out to be the most disappointing part unlike other crabs. The crab meat's inherent sweetness is heightened by the black vinegar and minced ginger dip. Since the Chinese believe the consumption of hairy crabs has a cooling effect on the body, a warm cup of sweetened ginger tea is always served to neutralize this effect.

The Deep-fried Beancurd Roll Stuffed with Minced Meat and Crab Meat stands out in nice contrast with the Stewed Dried Fish Maw with Hairy Crab Roe and Wolfberries. Wonderfully crisp on the outside, the beancurd roll yields a most delectable filling inside. The latter is an apt showcase of delicated Cantonese nuances in which the fish maw’s bland, spongy texture acts as the perfect foil to offset the flavourful crab roe and meat whilst simultaneously emphasizing the wolfberries’ subtle sweetness.

Delicious stewed noodles with shredded chicken, hairy crab meat and suet choy (a type of preserved vegetable) and glutinous balls stuffed with black sesame paste in sweetened ginger tea round off this noteworthy menu.

SHANG PALACE
Shangri-la Hotel Kuala Lumpur
11 Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2074 3904

Business hours Monday-Saturday 12 noon to 2.30 pm
Sunday & public holidays 10.30 am to 2.30 pm
Daily 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm

-end-

Good Eating Experiences

It's good to be back after a short hiatus. Nope it has got nothing with the fasting month nor the recent spate of festive holidays. Just got too caught up with work and the inevitable stress of fulfilling deadlines.

Been revisiting some food haunts which were reviewed in the past. Glad to know some outlets are still maintaining the standards whilst sadly, one or two didn't quite cut it and has even folded. These are the ones which can be relied upon for a good dining experience:

Delicious by Ms Read

Now stronger than ever with a revamped menu. Old favourites remained but newer additions are most welcomed. Especially in the dessert section. Berrilicious Chocolate Pavlova, Apple Lumberjack and Mango & Lychee Triffle in a Glass are serious contenders to win over the sweet-toothed besides the outlet's signature buttery scones and 'blackforest in a glass' offerings.

Seek out Delicious by Ms Read at Bangsar Village and the new wing of One Utama.

Precious Old China

After a rather disappointing experience when I took an Oz-based dear friend/fellow foodie there, our most recent visit over the weekend proved the chef has lost none of his magic. Save for the overly salty 'tau kan' (vegetarian bean puffs?) in the beancurd dish, our order of Cincalok Chicken, Ju Hu Char, Pie Tee, Pucuk Paku Masak Lemak and Asam Fish were spot on. Special mention goes to the Ju Hu Char - can't recall the last time my parents raved over this popular Nyonya-Hokkien dish but yesterday, they did just that!

The Mee Siam was so-so ; love the sauce but disliked the clumpy meehoon. Nevertheless, the Bubur Cha Cha was top notch. No wonder this girlfriend of mine goes ever so often for lunch with her colleagues!

Dine in its ornate ambience filled with Chinese/Nyonya antiques and collectibles at the Central Market, a stone throw away from KL's Chinatown.

Hoong Kee Seafood Steamboat

Taman Maluri folks never had it this good. Every nook and corner of this bustling commercial centre (close to the ever-popular Jusco supermart) is either a coffee shop or an eatery of some sort. Reasonably priced and varied offerings attract hordes of hungry office workers by day and urban families at night.

Come here for the great seafood noodles in the morning and for lunch. The fish ball noodles are priced at RM3.50 but the seafood version at RM4.00 is much better. One gets 3 prawns, several razor clams, bouncy fish balls and sliced fish cake with bits of dried seaweed in the soupy noodles. 'Kon loh' or dry-tossed version also available. If you feel like indulging, pomfret and other pricier seafood from Pulau Ketam can be added upon request.

Dinner is strictly steamboat at RM13.50 per person. The platter of ingredients include fish paste noodles, two types of fish balls, meat balls, fried beancurd sheets or 'fu chok', white beancurd triangles, sliced fish, golden straw mushrooms, 'sui kow' or stuffed dumplings, prawns, vegetables, crispy yee mee, meehoon and eggs. Diners have a choice of having both clear soup and tom yam in one pot or stick to either broth of choice. While the freshness of the ingredients are unquestionable ... some of us felt a tad thirsty after the meal which could indicate the soup might have been flavoured with MSG. Still, the place seems to be doing roaring business so perhaps it's a case of eaters' beware?

MODERN JAPAN RISING

Today, Japanese restaurants with classical décor like those depicted in the Memoirs of a Geisha blockbuster no longer reign supreme. Instead, most prefer the minimalist Zen approach, with sleek glass, dark wood and steel interiors, clean-line soft furnishings, open-concept show kitchen and piped-in jazz music. Service staff is garbed not in elaborate kimonos but informal happi coats (short Japanese robe with straight sleeves) or monochromatic ensembles of white shirt and black pants.

Mizu, a Japanese fine-dining eatery at the Bangsar Village, is the embodiment of this revolutionary, modern approach. Its intimidating granite and cascading water façade at the entrace gives little away of its goings-on inside. Walk through its narrow, raised passageway and you’d find yourself in an elongated L-shaped dining area interspersed with secluded corners. Noren or Japanese doorway curtains and some framed artworks underscore the outlet’s understated décor whilst its elongated sushi counter sits adjacent to an open-concept kitchen. Other features include a wine cellar, a private dining room and an outdoor patio that overlooks part of Bangsar’s busy thoroughfares.

Executive chef Aspazali Amran, one of the few Malay chefs skilled in the art of Japanese cuisine, helms the kitchen team here. Having previously worked for the old Nadaman restaurant at the Shangri-la KL, Chef Aspazali shows that his 20-year experience and training stints in Japan has evolved to complement Mizu’s contemporary attitude. His innovative specialties infused with French/Continental elements, has already won him the stamp of approval from discerning corporate types and local dignitaries who frequent Mizu. Amongst them are several company bosses of Japanese corporations who hosted the Toyota F1 crew to dinner last year.

Chef Aspazali’s amuse bouche of Deep-fried Maki Roll got the evening off to a rousing start. A house specialty here, it comprises sushi rice roll with minced salmon, red tuna, tobiko (flying fish roe) and mayonnaise, coated and deep-fried in crisp tempura batter. A full portion of 8 pieces costs RM15++.

Many of his signature dishes are highly inspired by Tokyo’s cosmopolitan outlook. The dish of Foie Gras with Daikon (RM30++) proves how a simple, rustic dish of simmered Japanese radish can be transformed into an epicurean delight with the inclusion of pan-fried foie gras. The latter’s rich, velvety texture merged so seamlessly with the radish’s delicate sweetness that diners are unlikely to forget this sublime dish in a hurry. We bet the Foie Gras Chawan Mushi or steamed egg custard with foie gras (RM25++) is equally outstanding.

The Sashimi Platter (RM130++) is a sight to behold with succulent cuts of red and white tuna, salmon, amaebi (sweet shrimp) and yellow tail artistically presented on a tall mound of shaved ice. Flown in twice weekly, the fish’s quality and freshness is assuredly comparable to other fine Japanese eateries.

For those who are averse to raw delicacies, the Mizu Maki (RM35++ for 6 pcs) is worth sampling. The reverse sushi roll, in which the nori or seaweed sheet is rolled inwards with the rice on outside, comes filled with sliced avocado, grilled unagi (eel), tempura prawn, lettuce and tobiko.

Chef Aspazali forays into fusion again with his Grilled Maguro Steak (RM35++) that looks remarkably like a luscious steak. Lightly basted with a concoction of teriyaki and garlic sauce, the tuna belly is melt-in-the-mouth tender.

The creative Kedahan whose boyish looks can rival that of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s, certainly has no qualms about experimenting with new ingredients and techniques.

“My modern approach towards Japanese dishes will appeal to the young and adventurous diners who patronize Mizu,” said Chef Aspazali. “To stand out from competitors, I advise my team to maximize on our culinary creativity while retaining the core essence of Japanese cuisine. Thus, new tempting dishes can be regularly introduced to entice customers and generate word-of-mouth recommendations to family and friends.”

Although more Continental than Japanese, the Baked Jumbo Oyster with Cheese (RM15++ each) is certain to have you raving about it to all and sundry. Baked in its shell with grated cheese, the huge mollusk which is the size of a large sauce plate, tasted sinfully rich and indulgent. Thankfully, its accompanying dressing of light soy sauce and minced garlic prevented this speciality from being overly cloying.

More edgy temptations can be found in the a la carte menu such as Marinated Fresh Salmon with Yam (RM25++), Pizza with Salted Cuttlefish (RM25++) and Spicy Seafood Mini Hot Pot with Kim Chi (RM25++).

Desserts are a little more sedate with the Macha (green tea) or Black Sesame Ice-cream and freshly sliced fruits.

Mizu also has a good selection of wine and saké for those who enjoy their favourite tipple to complement the culinary delights here. If the outlet doesn’t carry the desired vintage, they will try their best to procure it to ensure your next dining experience will be truly complete.

MIZU JAPANESE FINE-DINING (pork-free)
Lot F6 First Floor
Bangsar Village
No1 Jalan Telawi Satu
Bansar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2283 6988

PRIME MAKES THE CUT

^ Trio of flavoured butter to spread on

crusty seven grain and poppy seed breads

^ Fresh oysters to seduce the senses
^ Angel hair pasta with saffron sauce & seafood
^ Scrumptious lobster tail terrine
^ Prime rib carved at your tableside
^ 80 day grain fed Australian filet mignon with side dishes
^ Sink your teeth into this tender ribeye with morel cream sauce
^ Berries with cream for a tantalising finish

For me, steaks are synonymous with cowboys, Country & Western flicks and the funny antics of Desperate Dan, a steak-loving cartoon character in the UK Dandy comics of my childhood. I also cut my teeth learning to eat sizzling steaks at an established ship-themed steak house in Kuala Lumpur. However, the steak and Wild, Wild West association distintegrate after a visit to Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur’s spanking new outlet, Prime.

Touted as Kuala Lumpur’s first international steak restaurant, Prime is set to take the proverbial bull by the horns, serving up the finest cuts of imported beef within its sleek, contemporary confines.

Extensive timber inlay and impressive custom-built floor-to-ceiling wine displays are matched by high backed two-tone leather chairs and oversized tables that accord extra space and elbow room.

If you wish to see and be seen, opt for the main open seating area. Otherwise, be discreetly cloistered in cosy booth seats and secluded nooks for better privacy. The 10-seater private dining room looks like a presidential conference room that offers an up close and personal vista of the culinary masters at work. While show kitchens are now almost de rigueur for new restaurants, Prime goes one up with its novel Sommelier’s Table. Naturally wine samplings are the main focus here and the resident wine manager will be more than happy to help select suitable wines to complement their meal.

Prime’s steak cuts vary between the basic 220g (8 oz) and the staggering 900g (32 oz or two pounds!) portions, covering a prized range that includes Black Angus 200 day aged and Australian 120 and 80 day aged steaks, grilled on lava stone or imported charcoal. For connoisseurs, there is the Australian certified Kobe-style Wagyu beef with a marble score of six and above. This score is considered the best as the meat has a good balance of dense fat and lean marbling.

The different ‘aged’ steaks actually denote the total number of days the cattle is fed with high grade grains (usually corn), which determines how tender and well-marbled the beef is going to be. Good things don’t come cheap and neither does Wagyu (pronounced wah-g'you, it means Japanese cattle) beef, even though the ones served at Prime comes from Wagyu cattle raised in Australia and not Kobe, Japan. Raised under stringent, exacting conditions, the cattle are placed under a carefully controlled diet and given daily massages to procure supremely tender and densely marbled beef cuts. Is it any surprise a 340g (12 oz) Wagyu sirloin costs RM300 a pop?

My serving of 80 day centre cut 220g Filet Mignon (RM60++) with Caramelized Balsamic-Shallot Jus with Deep-fried Potato Balls with Foie Gras Heart (RM15++) certainly deserves top billing for its amazingly juicy tenderness. Despite its deceptively dainty portion, the expertly prepared steak proved substantial enough. The subtly sweet and tangy sauce brought out the beef’s sumptuous full-bodied flavour whilst the potato balls teased the palate with its mixture of crisp and velvety smooth textures.

Our lunch had earlier started with oven-fresh poppy seed and seven-grain breads served with three types of flavoured butter – unsalted, smoked salmon and mushroom. Our group also shared half dozen of fresh Fines de Claire Oysters (RM60++), Australian Crab Cakes (RM45++), Fresh Angel Hair Pasta with Crustacean Saffron Sauce (RM45++) and Caesar Salad (RM35++).

Served imaginatively on a two-tier glass platter, the oysters were exceptional for their delicate sea-brininess but if you wish, the six accompanying dressings – wasabi mayo, Thai chilli, sour cream, lemon ginger, Tabasco and lemon wedges would certainly add an interesting dimension to them.

The Australian Crab Cakes served with chilli flakes, garlic sauce and mango salsa is an easy way to enjoy tasty crab meat minus the hard work. Forgo pasta as appetizer unless you have an insatiable appetite – the delicious Angel Hair is huge enough to qualify as a main course on its own. The classic Caesar Salad is a better option, prepared and served with a flourish at your tableside.

Special mention must be given to the slow-roasted 80 days grain-fed Australian Prime Rib (300g RM80++, 450g RM110++) which left an indelible impression with its unbelievable melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. Noteworthy accompaniments for this are corn sweet mashed potato, jumbo white and green asparagus, Béarnaise and cracked peppercorn sauce.

My partner’s 120 days 220g Ribeye Steak (RM55++) cooked to medium rare with red warm centre was moist and succulent. Complemented by Morel Cream Sauce and Truffle Mashed Potato (RM15++), it was a match made in heaven.

Prime’s menu is further beefed up with seafood, chicken, lamb and venison. If you want your beef and seafood too, the ubiquitous Surf and Turf (RM120++) would be the ideal solution.

Since we had no room left for decadent desserts such as Gelato, Sticky Date Pudding, Tiramisu and Mango and Coconut Baked Cheesecake, a platter of fresh, imported berries with luxuriously smooth whipped cream brought our meal to a refreshing conclusion.

Prime is definitely worth visiting if you are true-blue steak lover and have no qualms about paying top dollar for great steaks. No bulls about it.

PRIME (pork free)
Level 5 Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur
2 Jalan Stesen Sentral
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations 2263 7555