Tuesday, April 24, 2007
TOO HOT TO HANDLE?
Another point to note is food reviews must be taken liberally with a pinch of salt. Of course restaurateurs and chefs would roll out the red carpet when they know food reviews are being done - it's akin to having the Queen over for tea, going for your first date or attending that crucial 'make or break' job interview. Wouldn't you spruce your home up, groom yourself from head to toe to impress and set out to make a good lasting impression? Sure you would - why should it be any different for eateries and the people who own, operate and serve in them? So I see no sense why people should complain that the media write only positive things in their reviews ... those stories are meant to be just that - a review that serves as a guide on what the outlet specialities are, the philosophy behind the outlet being in existence, what inspired the chef(s), etc. Conclusions on whether the food is good or not must ultimately be left to the consumers themselves - real diners who get to decide ultimately whether it's justified parting with their hard-earned moolah no matter how good or bad the food is as deemed by us reviewers. Remember, one man's meat is another man's poison.
OK, I'm not advocating bad food - there's nothing worse than paying for mediocre dishes that spoil your day and leave you feeling like a bear with a sore head. But I've come to realise there's just no accounting for taste. Otherwise tell me how come some 'not so great' food outlets continue to not only exist but expand all over the place and draw tons of customers? Heck, it's freedom of choice and their customers obviously feel they are getting something worthwhile whenever they eat there.
Having said that, here are some no holds barred comments on recent outlets I'd been to at my own expense:
AFTERNOON TEA AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL KL
Still one of the best places to escape from the city's madness. Its huge picture windows looking out to sprawling lawns and verdant landscaped gardens are indeed balm for the soul. However, the Lounge's latest Afternoon Tea menu left much to be desired. We reckon it's a mistake to tinker with classic stuff like cucumber sandwiches and normal egg sandwiches ... yes, we see the need to be creative but seriously, even I can't stand the current curried egg filling which my kid took an immediate dislike to. Thank goodness the scones remained rich and crumbly as we remember them to be.
The Asian set was no better. Since I didn't touch the offerings for these, I was told only the chicken satay came up to mark. Which was surprising cos the last time we went, nobody had anything negative to say about the Asian selection.
Fortunately service remains exemplary - in fact it was better than before as we found there were more staff compared to our last visit. The few girls on duty in the past used to rush around looking very harried and sometimes failed to see patrons signalling to them for assistance. Now we had no problems getting their attention.
MANDARIN PALACE AT FEDERAL HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR
This grand dame of a restaurant deserves better patronage on weekdays. Younger diners may find the gilded trimmings and opulent setting too overwhelming but we just discovered that all that truly glitters here are the outlet's dim sum gems.
While the who's who in KL are raving over the pricey roast pork in this particular Pudu coffeeshop, we prefer the Mandarin Palace's crispy, delectable version that comes in alternate layers of fat and lean meat. And I can't recall the last time I tasted such scrumptious char siew bao - the cottony soft steamed layer yielded a generous amount of mildly sweet, dark and richly flavoured barbecued pork. Yummy!
It was certainly a memorable lunch as we fondly reminisced over the delectable lor mai kai (steamed glutinous rice with mushroom and chicken), plump morsels of siew mai and har gow, baked chan pow (mini bread-like buns with char siew filling) and ooh...light as air and super eggy dan tart or baked egg tarts. Just thinking about them make my mouth water!
On the day we went for lunch, only two other tables were occupied so service was definitely NOT an issue. It's amazing that hordes of tourists trawling the shops along the Bukit Bintang thoroughfare outside the hotel had no idea such a historical and noteworthy eatery exists within.
For a 50 year old hotel that was completed in time to herald our country's first Merdeka celebrations, the Federal KL deserves better respect and greater patronage.
WILD RICE AT CITITEL MID VALLEY
Unknown to the scores of shoppers of this humongous mall, the adjacent hotel houses a trendy cafe that offers a surprisingly decent buffet breakfast upstairs. Its sleek and minimalist interior appeals greatly to us - we like the floor to ceiling glass facade that accords us a lovely view of its pool, the fitness centre nearby and an elevated dining platform which is bordered by a bank of tall, sinewy bamboo planter boxes.
The spread seems remarkably simple at first sight but we soon found some nuggets to relish. Soft boiled eggs with toast and local kopi o are nice additions to the international selection. I love the scrambled eggs and chicken sausages, muesli and pancakes but the nasi lemak falls a little short of expectations. Pass on the rather dry scones and sliced cakes. The remaining stuff are average tasting but decent enough to stomach at the price we're paying.
Service is better than average, if not better than some established hotels in the Golden Triangle. The staff whips away used and stained crockery quite fast so much so that it's better inform them if you have not finish your food, and intend to nip off to get something else from the buffet.
* * * * * *
There you have it. Three frank overviews of our most recent food jaunts. Keep the bouquets or brickbats coming.
Thursday, March 29, 2007
WHAT A GREAT NUMBER!
Dark & delectable...Deep-fried Pork ribs in Beer Stout
Slurpilicious Sang Har Meen
Cut to the chase with 52's Claypot Curry Fish Head
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
GOOD COOKING AT ZUHO
Slurpilicious Freshwater Prawns in Special Sauce
Loh Mein with Freshwater Prawns & Crabmeat
Nyonya Sambal Fried Cincaru & Okra
Perk up the palate with Fried Kway Teow with Black
Pepper Beef
Hearty, rustic Fish Head Meehoon
Crispy Deep Fried Fish Fillet with Barreto Sauce
Few foodies can resist Sang Har Meen or stir-fried noodles with freshwater prawns. This dish reigns supreme amongst the many hawkers’ dishes available and the only one that can get away with restaurant's pricing!
Now there's a new eatery in Taman Tun Dr Ismail that prides itself in dishing up some freshwater prawn dishes, whether on their own or with noodles or rice. Its house speciality of Freshwater Prawn and Crab Meat Loh Mein (RM25 for regular, RM45 for large portion) is an extremely indulgent offering (forget about cholesterol counting for once).
Braised in a rich, eggy sauce with two big, succulent freshwater prawns, the fat yellow Hokkien noodles tasted out of this world with a dash of vinegar in it. Devour the noodles whilst they are still piping hot though. Otherwise, you'd end up with an unappetising congealed dish as they cool. I'm dying to sample their Freshwater Prawn Braised Yee Mee, Freshwater Prawn Wanton Mee in Fragrant Soup and Freshwater Prawn Meehoon in Nyonya-style Soup.
I have had better Fish Head Meehoon (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large) elsewhere but honestly, Zuho's version is as decent as they come. I prefer lai fun or thick rice noodles for this particular dish but to each her own I guess. What stood out was the fleshy chunks of deep-fried fish head and delicious sweet-tangy soup that has generous slices of hum choi or salted mustard, tomato wedges, sliced ginger and chopped spring onion in it.
The scrumptious Venison Fried Rice Nyonya-style (RM13 – regular, RM22 – large) fares better with me. Who can resist fluffy rice stir-fried with thin slices of venison, aromatic shredded kaffir lime leaves and local spices? I can only presume the Anchovy or Salted Fish Fried Rice, Beef Fried Rice Yong Chow Style and Crab Meat Fried Rice taste equally arresting.
If you like Hong Kong-style korn chau hor or dry-fried flat rice noodles, resident chef, S H Lim or Uncle Lim as he is known amongst staff and customers, executes this with panache. The Black Pepper Beef Fried Kway Teow (RM8 – regular, RM13 –large) remains slippery smooth, nicely separate and fully imbued with the robust nuances of freshly ground black pepper and sliced beef.
For all the farn tung (die-hard rice eaters) out there, Zuho's small selection of home-style dishes make perfect accompaniments to have with plain white rice. One of their specialities is Deep-fried Fish Fillet in Barreto Sauce (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large), a Filipina-inspired dish that comprised crispy, boneless pieces of fish fillet eaten with a tantalisingly sweet, sour and mildly spicy dip that has sesame seeds and chopped coriander in it.
Har loke, a classic prawn dish for many major Chinese festivals, is superbly replicated here. Its Freshwater Prawns Fried in Chef’s Special Sauce (RM30 – regular, RM45 – large) beg to be eaten with your hands to fully appreciate the dark, glistening and full-bodied sauce made from chopped garlic, red chilli, coriander, ginger, Worchestershire sauce, thick soya sauce and spring onions.
Chilli fiends will get fired up over the Nyonya Sambal Cencaru Fish (RM8 – regular, RM13 – large) as the ground chilli paste for this packs quite a wallop. The Kunyit Chicken (RM13 – regular, RM20 – large) and Stir-fried Chicken with Salted Fish (RM13 – regular, RM20 – large) come highly recommended as well.
A surprisingly good Melaka Nyonya Cendol (RM4) consisting of thick, caramelised gula Melaka (palm sugar) syrup, rich coconut milk and short, fat and soft jade-green cendol strands is the perfect conclusion to your meal at Zuho.
With its modern, spartan decor and quick, amicable service, Zuho is definitely worth the (reasonable) prices it is charging.
Zuho (pork-free)
44 Jalan Datuk Sulaiman
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 012-238 8135/016-600 3389
Business hours – Tues-Sun 11.00 am – 3.00 pm, 6.00 pm – 10.30 pm
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
NEW YEAR WISHES
Anyway another year beckons with more great dining experiences await! Believe it or not, eating well can be a vice...but heck, it's a blessed task that yours truly will undertake with no qualms whatsoever. 2006 has been a fair year filled with more fabulous food than mediocre eats so overall, it was memorable in its own way.
For those who have been following my food treks, thank you for your support. Stick around and I'd clue you in on what's hot on the dining scene in 2007. Now let the feast begin!
A TOSS UP FOR GOOD THINGS TO COME
Get fresh - and enjoy a fruitful start to the Lunar New Year!
Imagine you're participating in Fear Factor...
'Bean' there? Such luxurious smoothness on the palate
Roast pork - not! It's crispy chicken skin with prawn paste & nuts
Har har - prawns to usher in joyous laughter
In addition to the mounds of assorted pickles, vegetables and deep-fried flour crisps, Chef Chew has included shredded kiwifruit, dragon fruit, strawberries, honey rose apples, snow pear, young mango, pomelo and rock melon to this ubiquitous festive delight.
Diners can inject ‘liveliness’, ‘abundance’ and 'good fortune' to their order with shark’s fin, pacific clams, soft shell crab or yellow fin tuna, abalone, salmon or jellyfish. They even have a choice of different sauces – Fruity Sour Plum Sauce, Sour Plum with Wasabi Sauce, Spicy Thai Chilli Plum Sauce or plain Plum Sauce. The end result will be a light, tantalising salad redolent with a whole gamut of tangy, zesty, sweet and tart flavours without any cloying aftertaste.
There's nothing like some Sichuanese spices to set jaded palates alight. The Crispy Prawn with Spicy Bean Paste is guaranteed to leave your tongue tingling from its crunchy, spicy outer crust whilst the crustaceans remain deliciously succulent inside. But don't worry, you can always tempering things down with Crispy Stuffed Chicken with Prawn and Shark’s Fin Paste and Deluxe Nut Coating. Looking deceptively like roast pork from afar, this scrumptious speciality proves memorable for its varied textural contrasts and delicate nuances. A robust chilli dip served on the side helps to give extra bite to these springy slices.
Shaped like mini gold ingots, the Homemade Green Puree Beancurd with Seafood and Scallops is distinctive for its top coating of jade green, blended seaweed. The silky smooth beancurd pieces are the perfect foil to emphasise the fresh scallop and minced seafood's inherent sweetness.
The typical Sichuanese delicacy of Fried Spicy Fish Fillet Sautéed with Sichuan Peppercorns is unlikely to be forgotten in a hurry. Unlike the 'in your face' spicy tartness of Thai tom yum, its fiery-hued broth is potent enough to give chilli lovers an instant ‘high’ with its ma la (numbing spiciness) flavour.
For the first time ever, those on a vegetarian diet can also look forward to a sumptuous feast at Si Chuan Dou Hua as Chef Chew has thoughtfully came up with a special Vegetarian Set Menu that will enable them to partake in the festive feasting. One of the specialities, Stir-fried Mixed Fresh Mushrooms with Seven Spices is something that will appeal to even non-vegetarians and diners who want a change from the normally indulgent fare served during this festive season.
All the dishes mentioned are from the different set menus available. The Feast of Abundance is tailored for two persons at RM98++ and at RM318++ for a table of six. For 10 persons or more, choose from its Feast of Prosperity, Fortune, Health and Wealth set menu or Vegetarian Set at RM638++ per table. Small portions of Yee Sang are priced from RM38++ onwards while large portions are priced from RM68++ onwards.
Go on, it is time to go the whole hog at the Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur for a fruitful Chinese New Year.
SI CHUAN DOU HUA RESTAURANT (pork-free)
Lower Lobby
Parkroyal Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2711 1199/2782 8303
AN ITALIAN SOJOURN
Bacco's cosy & intimate setting
Elegant Italian decor by Datin Burna Mirri
Italian carnival favourite, Frappe
Bewitching Fish Dish
Something to stew over!
Omelette with a difference
Less is more with these Mini Pizzas
Light yet tasty Mozzarella Sandwich
Antipasti to kick start dinner
For those in the know, Jalan Yap Kwan Seng is a food haven in its own right. The entire stretch of road boasts of Nyonya, Japanese, European, Indian, Chinese steamboat and Penang nasi kandar outlets so diners are truly spoilt for choice. However, few are aware of a splendid Italian restaurant tucked away in one of the quieter lanes known as Jalan Liew Weng Chee.
Named after the Italian god of wine, Bacco, this understated restaurant is owned by architect Datuk Luciano Mirri and his interior designer wife, Burna who have made Malaysia their home for the last 22 years. Their eatery prides itself on serving rustic home-style Italian dishes that are rarely found elsewhere.
The inimitable style and creative handiwork of Datin Burna Mirri are evident in the hand-sewn table cloths and curtains, and sponge-painted walls within Bacco. Oriental and European antiques, paintings and furniture further enhanced the classic, homely ambience.
Chef Michele Dal Cero from Verona, Italy displays an uncanny flair for staying true to his Italian roots despite this being his first stint in the Far East and having to be mindful of local dietary sensitivities. Antipasti (appetizers) is a must here to start off your meal. We enjoyed sliced marinated mushroom, pickled red cabbage, zucchini, red and green peppers, a creamy tuna spread, olives and sun-dried tomatoes with the two types of breads – onion and truffle and another flavoured with chopped olives.
Italy’s simple, provincial-style cooking is best reflected in Frittata Ai Funghi Con Patate Alla Bacco or Bacco-style Mushroom Omelette with Potatoes. Special mention must be made of the accompanying sauce of boiled egg yolk blended with anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, thyme, lemon juice and salt.
Chef Dal Cero gets back to basics with his Mini Pizzas with a single ingredient to top each miniature dough disc – chopped tomato, olives or grated cheese. It is a great way to savour the pizza’s delightfully light texture and unadulterated flavour of each topping.
The Involtino Di Sogliola Con Salmone (Witch Fillet Roll with Salmon Garnished with Smoked Salmon) is as bewitching as its name. It is hard to fault this dish of baked sole fillet rolled and stuffed with fresh salmon and chopped romaine lettuce, complemented by a dainty roll of smoked salmon. The composition of subtle nuances and myriad textures proved the chef’s consummate skills.
A scrumptious creation served with a distinctive anchovy-caper sauce, the delicious pan-fried Mozzarella la Carrozza mini sandwich would captivate any discerning cheese lovers. Lightly covered in egg batter, it oozed with melted, piquant cheese in the centre.
La Padella Del Pescatore made us felt as if we were dining at an Italian friend’s villa in the Roman countryside. A hearty stew of fish, prawns, squid and mussels, the ingredients are first sautéed in extra virgin olive oil and cooked with chopped fresh tomatoes, garlic, white wine, chili, fresh herbs and black pepper. The deliciously sweet broth, tinged with the faintest hint of tanginess, is best enjoyed with crusty sliced baguette.
A traditional carnival fried pastry known as Frappe gave us another rare glimpse into Italy. Also known as Cenci in Tuscany, Chiacchiere in Lombardy, Crostoli in Venice and Bugie in Genoa, the rectangular paper-thin, deep-fried pastry are served with a dusting of icing sugar. At Bacco, this delightful creation comes with ice-cream and a little warmer of melted chocolate which you can drizzle onto the crispy pastry. The perennial favourite, tiramisu, is also available although this being an alcohol-free version, it may be a tad tame for those who used to the original recipe.
Thanks to Bacco’s niche set-up, service is cordial and impeccable. Bigger groups of eight persons or more should ideally notify outlet manager, Ahmad Radhi Abdul Shukor ahead of time so that the team is prepared to cope with service delivery and food quality.
Datuk Mirri explained, “Good food takes time to prepare. Ample notice is necessary for our kitchen team to plan and work their magic. For our best dishes, the ingredients need to be freshly sourced and everything made from scratch. Some specialities need more than four hours of preparation to a full day’s work. Advance reservations minimize the customers’ waiting time in between courses and this maximizes their dining experience with us. So it’s a win-win situation for both.”
For those yearning for an Italian gastronomic sojourn, Bacco is well worth the trip.
BACCO (pork free)
5 Jalan Liew Weng Chee
Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 21711190
Business hours – Lunch Monday to Friday 12 noon to 2.30 pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday 7.00 pm to 10.30 pm
Closed on Sundays
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
HELLO HAIRY!
Imperial walk into Shang Palace
Hairy crabs anyone?
Crispy crab & minced meat roll
Oodles of delicious noodles
This year’s hairy crab season clawed its way into international news headlines, triggered by a furore in Taiwan when a batch of Chinese hairy crabs was allegedly detected with nitrofuran, a cancer-causing agent. Consequently, this prompted a Chinese crab exporter to offer a one million yuan (approximately RM469,000) reward to any Taiwanese health inspectors who succeed in finding any trace of carcinogen in other hairy crab consignments as a measure to restore consumers’ confidence.
Back at the famed Yangcheng Lake in the Chinese eastern province of Jiangsu – home of the hairy crabs – counterfeit crabs appeared on the market despite numerous measures undertaken by the Yangcheng Lake Crab Farmers Association to set the real McCoys apart. In Hong Kong, a thief was nabbed by local police after his unsuccessful theft of these gourmet crabs worth a princely USD1,280 (RM4,736) from a restaurant.
These incidents only served to elevate the snob appeal of these pricey creatures. According to The Asian Wall Street Journal food writer, Stan Sesser, some Hong Kongers have even gone to the extent of eating hairy crabs ‘tycoon-style’ – consuming only the deep-orange hued roe found in female crabs without bothering with the rest of the crabs. A sheer waste considering how sweet and sublime the hairy crab meat is, especially when it is skillfully prepared by experts like Shang Palace’s executive Chinese chef, Leung Sing Cheung.
So what's the fuss about? Well, you won't really know until you sampled one of these hairy crustaceans. One of the few truly seasonal delicacies left, no Chinese food connoisseurs will forgo the chance of savouring these distinctive grey-green crabs with furry claws and legs come late autumn.
Local hairy crab lovers can feast on these pricey, princely delights in the Shang Palace’s imperial setting. The splendid six-course menu (RM238++ per person) starts with warm, satisfying bowl of Braised Shark’s Fin with Hairy Crab Roe and Sea Urchin. Not a very politically correct soup to have but ... it tasted oh so good! Thick strands of shark’s fin, egg-yolk rich crab roe, chunky crab meat and delicate sea urchin - they make an unbeatable combination.
The piece de resistance – a whole hairy crab steamed the traditional way – is first cut up with surgical precision by the staff for easy eating. What a luxury it is to simply scoop up the scrumptious roe from within the top shell and devour the sweet, fleshy crab meat from the crustacean’s spindly legs.
Surprisingly the claw meat turns out to be the most disappointing part unlike other crabs. The crab meat's inherent sweetness is heightened by the black vinegar and minced ginger dip. Since the Chinese believe the consumption of hairy crabs has a cooling effect on the body, a warm cup of sweetened ginger tea is always served to neutralize this effect.
The Deep-fried Beancurd Roll Stuffed with Minced Meat and Crab Meat stands out in nice contrast with the Stewed Dried Fish Maw with Hairy Crab Roe and Wolfberries. Wonderfully crisp on the outside, the beancurd roll yields a most delectable filling inside. The latter is an apt showcase of delicated Cantonese nuances in which the fish maw’s bland, spongy texture acts as the perfect foil to offset the flavourful crab roe and meat whilst simultaneously emphasizing the wolfberries’ subtle sweetness.
Delicious stewed noodles with shredded chicken, hairy crab meat and suet choy (a type of preserved vegetable) and glutinous balls stuffed with black sesame paste in sweetened ginger tea round off this noteworthy menu.
SHANG PALACE
Shangri-la Hotel Kuala Lumpur
11 Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2074 3904
Business hours Monday-Saturday 12 noon to 2.30 pm
Sunday & public holidays 10.30 am to 2.30 pm
Daily 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm
-end-
Monday, October 30, 2006
Good Eating Experiences
Been revisiting some food haunts which were reviewed in the past. Glad to know some outlets are still maintaining the standards whilst sadly, one or two didn't quite cut it and has even folded. These are the ones which can be relied upon for a good dining experience:
Delicious by Ms Read
Now stronger than ever with a revamped menu. Old favourites remained but newer additions are most welcomed. Especially in the dessert section. Berrilicious Chocolate Pavlova, Apple Lumberjack and Mango & Lychee Triffle in a Glass are serious contenders to win over the sweet-toothed besides the outlet's signature buttery scones and 'blackforest in a glass' offerings.
Seek out Delicious by Ms Read at Bangsar Village and the new wing of One Utama.
Precious Old China
After a rather disappointing experience when I took an Oz-based dear friend/fellow foodie there, our most recent visit over the weekend proved the chef has lost none of his magic. Save for the overly salty 'tau kan' (vegetarian bean puffs?) in the beancurd dish, our order of Cincalok Chicken, Ju Hu Char, Pie Tee, Pucuk Paku Masak Lemak and Asam Fish were spot on. Special mention goes to the Ju Hu Char - can't recall the last time my parents raved over this popular Nyonya-Hokkien dish but yesterday, they did just that!
The Mee Siam was so-so ; love the sauce but disliked the clumpy meehoon. Nevertheless, the Bubur Cha Cha was top notch. No wonder this girlfriend of mine goes ever so often for lunch with her colleagues!
Dine in its ornate ambience filled with Chinese/Nyonya antiques and collectibles at the Central Market, a stone throw away from KL's Chinatown.
Hoong Kee Seafood Steamboat
Taman Maluri folks never had it this good. Every nook and corner of this bustling commercial centre (close to the ever-popular Jusco supermart) is either a coffee shop or an eatery of some sort. Reasonably priced and varied offerings attract hordes of hungry office workers by day and urban families at night.
Come here for the great seafood noodles in the morning and for lunch. The fish ball noodles are priced at RM3.50 but the seafood version at RM4.00 is much better. One gets 3 prawns, several razor clams, bouncy fish balls and sliced fish cake with bits of dried seaweed in the soupy noodles. 'Kon loh' or dry-tossed version also available. If you feel like indulging, pomfret and other pricier seafood from Pulau Ketam can be added upon request.
Dinner is strictly steamboat at RM13.50 per person. The platter of ingredients include fish paste noodles, two types of fish balls, meat balls, fried beancurd sheets or 'fu chok', white beancurd triangles, sliced fish, golden straw mushrooms, 'sui kow' or stuffed dumplings, prawns, vegetables, crispy yee mee, meehoon and eggs. Diners have a choice of having both clear soup and tom yam in one pot or stick to either broth of choice. While the freshness of the ingredients are unquestionable ... some of us felt a tad thirsty after the meal which could indicate the soup might have been flavoured with MSG. Still, the place seems to be doing roaring business so perhaps it's a case of eaters' beware?
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
MODERN JAPAN RISING
Today, Japanese restaurants with classical décor like those depicted in the Memoirs of a Geisha blockbuster no longer reign supreme. Instead, most prefer the minimalist Zen approach, with sleek glass, dark wood and steel interiors, clean-line soft furnishings, open-concept show kitchen and piped-in jazz music. Service staff is garbed not in elaborate kimonos but informal happi coats (short Japanese robe with straight sleeves) or monochromatic ensembles of white shirt and black pants.
Mizu, a Japanese fine-dining eatery at the Bangsar Village, is the embodiment of this revolutionary, modern approach. Its intimidating granite and cascading water façade at the entrace gives little away of its goings-on inside. Walk through its narrow, raised passageway and you’d find yourself in an elongated L-shaped dining area interspersed with secluded corners. Noren or Japanese doorway curtains and some framed artworks underscore the outlet’s understated décor whilst its elongated sushi counter sits adjacent to an open-concept kitchen. Other features include a wine cellar, a private dining room and an outdoor patio that overlooks part of Bangsar’s busy thoroughfares.
Executive chef Aspazali Amran, one of the few Malay chefs skilled in the art of Japanese cuisine, helms the kitchen team here. Having previously worked for the old Nadaman restaurant at the Shangri-la KL, Chef Aspazali shows that his 20-year experience and training stints in Japan has evolved to complement Mizu’s contemporary attitude. His innovative specialties infused with French/Continental elements, has already won him the stamp of approval from discerning corporate types and local dignitaries who frequent Mizu. Amongst them are several company bosses of Japanese corporations who hosted the Toyota F1 crew to dinner last year.
Chef Aspazali’s amuse bouche of Deep-fried Maki Roll got the evening off to a rousing start. A house specialty here, it comprises sushi rice roll with minced salmon, red tuna, tobiko (flying fish roe) and mayonnaise, coated and deep-fried in crisp tempura batter. A full portion of 8 pieces costs RM15++.
Many of his signature dishes are highly inspired by Tokyo’s cosmopolitan outlook. The dish of Foie Gras with Daikon (RM30++) proves how a simple, rustic dish of simmered Japanese radish can be transformed into an epicurean delight with the inclusion of pan-fried foie gras. The latter’s rich, velvety texture merged so seamlessly with the radish’s delicate sweetness that diners are unlikely to forget this sublime dish in a hurry. We bet the Foie Gras Chawan Mushi or steamed egg custard with foie gras (RM25++) is equally outstanding.
The Sashimi Platter (RM130++) is a sight to behold with succulent cuts of red and white tuna, salmon, amaebi (sweet shrimp) and yellow tail artistically presented on a tall mound of shaved ice. Flown in twice weekly, the fish’s quality and freshness is assuredly comparable to other fine Japanese eateries.
For those who are averse to raw delicacies, the Mizu Maki (RM35++ for 6 pcs) is worth sampling. The reverse sushi roll, in which the nori or seaweed sheet is rolled inwards with the rice on outside, comes filled with sliced avocado, grilled unagi (eel), tempura prawn, lettuce and tobiko.
Chef Aspazali forays into fusion again with his Grilled Maguro Steak (RM35++) that looks remarkably like a luscious steak. Lightly basted with a concoction of teriyaki and garlic sauce, the tuna belly is melt-in-the-mouth tender.
The creative Kedahan whose boyish looks can rival that of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s, certainly has no qualms about experimenting with new ingredients and techniques.
“My modern approach towards Japanese dishes will appeal to the young and adventurous diners who patronize Mizu,” said Chef Aspazali. “To stand out from competitors, I advise my team to maximize on our culinary creativity while retaining the core essence of Japanese cuisine. Thus, new tempting dishes can be regularly introduced to entice customers and generate word-of-mouth recommendations to family and friends.”
Although more Continental than Japanese, the Baked Jumbo Oyster with Cheese (RM15++ each) is certain to have you raving about it to all and sundry. Baked in its shell with grated cheese, the huge mollusk which is the size of a large sauce plate, tasted sinfully rich and indulgent. Thankfully, its accompanying dressing of light soy sauce and minced garlic prevented this speciality from being overly cloying.
More edgy temptations can be found in the a la carte menu such as Marinated Fresh Salmon with Yam (RM25++), Pizza with Salted Cuttlefish (RM25++) and Spicy Seafood Mini Hot Pot with Kim Chi (RM25++).
Desserts are a little more sedate with the Macha (green tea) or Black Sesame Ice-cream and freshly sliced fruits.
Mizu also has a good selection of wine and saké for those who enjoy their favourite tipple to complement the culinary delights here. If the outlet doesn’t carry the desired vintage, they will try their best to procure it to ensure your next dining experience will be truly complete.
MIZU JAPANESE FINE-DINING (pork-free)
Lot F6 First Floor
Bangsar Village
No1 Jalan Telawi Satu
Bansar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2283 6988
Friday, September 15, 2006
PRIME MAKES THE CUT
^ Fresh oysters to seduce the senses
^ Angel hair pasta with saffron sauce & seafood
^ Scrumptious lobster tail terrine
^ Prime rib carved at your tableside
^ 80 day grain fed Australian filet mignon with side dishes
^ Sink your teeth into this tender ribeye with morel cream sauce
^ Berries with cream for a tantalising finish
Touted as Kuala Lumpur’s first international steak restaurant, Prime is set to take the proverbial bull by the horns, serving up the finest cuts of imported beef within its sleek, contemporary confines.
Extensive timber inlay and impressive custom-built floor-to-ceiling wine displays are matched by high backed two-tone leather chairs and oversized tables that accord extra space and elbow room.
If you wish to see and be seen, opt for the main open seating area. Otherwise, be discreetly cloistered in cosy booth seats and secluded nooks for better privacy. The 10-seater private dining room looks like a presidential conference room that offers an up close and personal vista of the culinary masters at work. While show kitchens are now almost de rigueur for new restaurants, Prime goes one up with its novel Sommelier’s Table. Naturally wine samplings are the main focus here and the resident wine manager will be more than happy to help select suitable wines to complement their meal.
Prime’s steak cuts vary between the basic 220g (8 oz) and the staggering 900g (32 oz or two pounds!) portions, covering a prized range that includes Black Angus 200 day aged and Australian 120 and 80 day aged steaks, grilled on lava stone or imported charcoal. For connoisseurs, there is the Australian certified Kobe-style Wagyu beef with a marble score of six and above. This score is considered the best as the meat has a good balance of dense fat and lean marbling.
The different ‘aged’ steaks actually denote the total number of days the cattle is fed with high grade grains (usually corn), which determines how tender and well-marbled the beef is going to be. Good things don’t come cheap and neither does Wagyu (pronounced wah-g'you, it means Japanese cattle) beef, even though the ones served at Prime comes from Wagyu cattle raised in Australia and not Kobe, Japan. Raised under stringent, exacting conditions, the cattle are placed under a carefully controlled diet and given daily massages to procure supremely tender and densely marbled beef cuts. Is it any surprise a 340g (12 oz) Wagyu sirloin costs RM300 a pop?
My serving of 80 day centre cut 220g Filet Mignon (RM60++) with Caramelized Balsamic-Shallot Jus with Deep-fried Potato Balls with Foie Gras Heart (RM15++) certainly deserves top billing for its amazingly juicy tenderness. Despite its deceptively dainty portion, the expertly prepared steak proved substantial enough. The subtly sweet and tangy sauce brought out the beef’s sumptuous full-bodied flavour whilst the potato balls teased the palate with its mixture of crisp and velvety smooth textures.
Our lunch had earlier started with oven-fresh poppy seed and seven-grain breads served with three types of flavoured butter – unsalted, smoked salmon and mushroom. Our group also shared half dozen of fresh Fines de Claire Oysters (RM60++), Australian Crab Cakes (RM45++), Fresh Angel Hair Pasta with Crustacean Saffron Sauce (RM45++) and Caesar Salad (RM35++).
Served imaginatively on a two-tier glass platter, the oysters were exceptional for their delicate sea-brininess but if you wish, the six accompanying dressings – wasabi mayo, Thai chilli, sour cream, lemon ginger, Tabasco and lemon wedges would certainly add an interesting dimension to them.
The Australian Crab Cakes served with chilli flakes, garlic sauce and mango salsa is an easy way to enjoy tasty crab meat minus the hard work. Forgo pasta as appetizer unless you have an insatiable appetite – the delicious Angel Hair is huge enough to qualify as a main course on its own. The classic Caesar Salad is a better option, prepared and served with a flourish at your tableside.
Special mention must be given to the slow-roasted 80 days grain-fed Australian Prime Rib (300g RM80++, 450g RM110++) which left an indelible impression with its unbelievable melt-in-the-mouth tenderness. Noteworthy accompaniments for this are corn sweet mashed potato, jumbo white and green asparagus, Béarnaise and cracked peppercorn sauce.
My partner’s 120 days 220g Ribeye Steak (RM55++) cooked to medium rare with red warm centre was moist and succulent. Complemented by Morel Cream Sauce and Truffle Mashed Potato (RM15++), it was a match made in heaven.
Prime’s menu is further beefed up with seafood, chicken, lamb and venison. If you want your beef and seafood too, the ubiquitous Surf and Turf (RM120++) would be the ideal solution.
Since we had no room left for decadent desserts such as Gelato, Sticky Date Pudding, Tiramisu and Mango and Coconut Baked Cheesecake, a platter of fresh, imported berries with luxuriously smooth whipped cream brought our meal to a refreshing conclusion.
Prime is definitely worth visiting if you are true-blue steak lover and have no qualms about paying top dollar for great steaks. No bulls about it.
PRIME (pork free)
Level 5 Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur
2 Jalan Stesen Sentral
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations 2263 7555
Monday, August 14, 2006
A MOVEABLE FEAST AT ONE BANGSAR
While food reviews keep me constantly satiated and on-the-go, there are some outlets that merit repeat visits. Stan's Assam & Garam at One Bangsar is one of them, thanks in no small measure to Stephanie Saw. Her inherent passion at churning out excellent Malay dishes, albeit with slight twists has caught the imagination of many discerning foodies and their support have probably keep her going.
Nevertheless, these are challenging times for those in the food business. With everyone feeling the pinch, it is good to know all the owners whose outlets form the One Bangsar food haven have collectively came up with a unique promotion that is akin to a mini gourmet safari. At the unbelievable deal of RM28 nett per person, diners can meander along the whole row of fine restaurants in One Bangsar and eat to their hearts' content each Saturday in August.
It's a clever concept that quickly caught local food lovers' imagination. Despite the afternoon heat, more than 150 diners gamely showed up to savour the spread laid out by the ten outlets. We had a great time wandering around and sampling the eclectic mix of Vietnamese, Mediterranean, Italian, Indian, Malay, French, Japanese, Chinese and Thai specialities with refreshing drinks thrown in. While it is a good way of creating much awareness amongst new customers who have yet to discover One Bangsar, remember that it is not totally fair to judge each outlet based on the limited menu they serve up on these occasions. It merely acts as a sneak preview of each outlet's promising, delicious secrets that hopefully will induce return visits.
Of course, hiccups are not unusual for outdoor events of this kind. Firstly, there are too few seats compared to the large number of people - it would have been better if the organisers dispense with formal table seating entirely and just provide adequate seats instead by using portable stools. And for the price of RM28 nett, there are bound to attract quite a few ugly Malaysians who are all out to get their money's worth. That's right, these people never even blink an eye by grabbing and piling up all the food on their own plates the minute it's dished out. Never mind if they can't put it all away and others have yet to get a tiny helping.
Outlet managers and owners too must be conscientious enough to speed up their food replenishment and ensure the interest of paying customers are well looked after, especially when the food is in the process of being prepared or had finished. It's unthinkable of asking diners to return again and again or plead with them to move on to other outlets first. For one, we did move to other outlets and after returning twice just to be disappointed with a rather curt brush-off, we just gave up and walked off. What are the chances of that outlet getting our patronage in the near future? Well, don't hold your breath for this.
Undoubtedly the idea of this moveable feast is filled with superb potential so it'd be a shame if more shortcomings overwhelm the benefits. But each event is a learning experience and I do hope the One Bangsar team will gain invaluable experience and lessons from it.
TASTY CHEAP EATS
Longing for Lontong? Here's your solution!
Ice it! Fabulous Ais Batu Campur or ABC
Let’s face it – with the cost of city living keeps creeping up, ardent foodies are forced to dig deep into their pockets and find ways of stretching their hard-earned ringgit.
Fortunately in Malaysia one does not have to look too hard or too far to eat well at budget prices. Street side hawker stalls and informal no-frills eateries abound so local food lovers can still afford to feast like a king on pauper’s prices.
Here’s some of my favourite haunts for simple, cheap and tasty eats.
OODLES OF CHINESE NOODLES
Lau Ti Fang (Old Rendezvous) Parn Mein Stall
(non-halal)
Jalan Beremi, Kuala Lumpur
Mon-Sat, 7.30 am – 2.30 pm
This little nondescript stall used to be at the sidewalk across from Fortuna Hotel but has since relocated into a narrow shoplot just across from DBKL’s Little Ain Arabia. The stall still reigns supreme in my book as the gold standard for parn mein, flat flour noodles which I reckon is Chinese-style pasta. Here diners have a choice of the chewy noodles in thin, stringy texture like wantan mee or the flat fettucine type. You can opt to have it served in a delicious ikan bilis (dried anchovies)-based broth with sayur manis and a splendid topping of crispy fried ikan bilis, minced pork, sliced black mushrooms and wood ear fungus. Better still, try the kon lou version where the noodles are tossed in thick, black caramelized sauce. Don’t miss the stall’s ‘killer’ sambal belacan dip. Bouncy fish or meat balls can be added at extra charge. Prices from RM4.50 onwards per plate.
LONTONG LONGINGS
Kak Normah @ N Nasi Lemak (halal)
Dewan Serbaguna Penjaja, Jalan Wirawati Kuala Lumpur
Daily from 7.00 am – 12.00 noon
You won’t get enough of this incredibly tasty dish. The ensemble comprises diced nasi impit (pressed glutinous rice) in a piquant turmeric and coconut gravy filled with long beans, shredded radish, tempe (fermented pressed beancurd cake), strips of fu chook (beancurd sheets), hard-boiled egg wedges, beancurd, sliced cabbage and glass vermicelli. Spicy fish serunding, chunky peanut gravy and a dollop of sweetish sambal add the finishing touches to this superb dish. Other irresistible specialities served here include soto ayam and nasi lemak. Both the lontong and soto cost RM2.50 per plate while nasi lemak biasa costs RM1.00. Side dishes of fried chicken, beef rendang and sotong sambal available at extra charge.
NICE ICE
Ah Keong’s ABC Stall
Jalan Padang Belia
Brickfields Kuala Lumpur
Daily 10 am - 7 pm
You can’t miss this little stall in front of the 7-11 store, just one lane behind the YMCA building. Run by a husband and wife team, they are kept busy quenching their multi-racial customers’ thirst for fresh coconut water, cendol, cincau but nothing beats their fantastic ABC or ais batu campur. Regulars nickname their Special ABC (RM2.50 per bowl) the poor man’s artificial shark’s fin – thanks to the succulent strips of young coconut flesh that adorn their colourful and sweet icy concoction. The heap of finely shaved ice, drenched with rose syrup, fragrant gula Melaka syrup and evaporated milk consists of plump Green Giant corn kernels, home-made red bean mash, giant kidney beans, diced black grass jelly or cincau. Perfect for hot sweltering afternoons!
ALL MIXED UP
Mobile Rojak Van in front of Petronas station
Taman Cempaka Ampang
Daily 11 am – 5 pm
This is one local salad that appeals even to non-vege eaters but it takes a good sauce to separate the wheat from the chaff. We have been getting our regular Indian rojak fix from this mobile van since we discovered it by chance earlier this year. For RM3.50 per plate, the mixed salad of chopped prawn fritters, deep-fried flour and coconut fritters, firm beancurd, shredded cucumber and sengkuang (jicama), and hard boiled egg smothered in a scrumptious sweet, nutty and spicy sauce will leave you clamouring for more. You can also get the guy to add on some spicy brown cuttlefish (at additional cost) for extra flavour and texture. Wash it all down with a bowl of ais cendol.
Chow down!
Featured Post
EXPLOSIVE SURPRISE FROM CAKE RUSH
Whimsical. Fun. Impactful. Imagine a flock of butterflies fluttering up once you open Cake Rush’s latest Explosion Gift Box. We were thrille...
-
If you're like me who has no idea how to renew your Malaysian passport online, let's shake hands and say a prayer for what we are ...
-
Paris Baguette – South Korea’s famous bakery café has finally landed in Malaysia, at Pavilion KL. ( Left-Right) : Dato’ Sri Robin Ta...