BOATHOUSE'S PORK COUTURE

I always admire restaurants that can withstand the heat of competition. Now into its 11th year in business, Boathouse rightly deserves the same kind of respect accorded to newer, fancier restos in the local food scene. The secret of Boathouse's success stems largely from the chef/owner, Yenni Law who recently launched her Meatology cookbook.

During our visit, Chef Yenni graciously tempted us with her specialities for St Patrick's Day (available until 31 March) as well as Boathouse's signature show-stoppers. Top of my personal fave list is the orgasm-inducing Caramelised Bacon & Roast Pork with Garlic Cloves (RM28++) - chunky, sticky-sweet yet garlicky and super-crisp roast pork and bacon spiked with smoky sweet garlic cloves and bird's eye chilli to give bursts of heat. Lightly caramelised with brown sugar and flamed with brandy to finish, it sets off a cacophony of flavour "fireworks" with every mouthful.

Coming in at a close second is the appetiser of French Air-flown Foie Gras (100g @ RM67++). Seared to render a crusty veneer on the goose liver and then deglazed with Pinot Grigio, the tender and velvety rich pieces came sheathed in an inviting gloss. Served with homemade raspberry relish and fresh rocket leaves, this is a classic winner that needs no reinvention.

Our curtain-raiser is no pushover either.  Pretty as a picture, the Fresh Oysters with Lumpfish Caviar (3 pcs, RM23++) slid down with slippery smoothness, punctuated by bright pops of the tiny fish roe's muted brininess. What's not to like?

Now if I sound disconcertingly messed up, I shall blame it on all that Guinness infused St Paddy's Day specials. You would be green with envy too since the Guinness Porker (RM59++) paired an irresistible bacon steak with cured pork loin steak, served with legumes and pepper mushroom for textural contrasts. Robustly flavoured while retaining the meat's distinct salty accent, this dish is conceived to hold its own against a good pint of Ireland's most famous stout.

 

Staying true to Chef Yenni's meatology approach is Guinness Shepherd (RM68++) - 400gm of blackened lamb loin soused with a fruity-malty apple, BBQ and Guinness sauce. The tender, slightly fatty cut ensured the resultant taste hit all the right notes on our palate.

More Guinness is used to lend cachet to her Guinness Catch (RM78++) of grilled Atlantic cod with risotto, Guinness-anointed onions and Guinness balsamic honey. Cooked to just-right moist flakiness, the fish doubled up as an apt canvas to showcase the flavourful symphony that runs the gamut from the delicate oceanic sweetness of the cod to the intermingling creamy (stout), acidic (balsamic) and sweet-spicy (onion) profiles.

Raising the stakes further here is the house speciality of Steak Au Poivre a la Gueridon (RM76++). Once upon a time, the art of flambé was confined to truly haute restaurants like the Chalet. Chef Yenni Law should be lauded for training her Boathouse team to uphold this culinary art form. Be prepared for a flaming great show as a 320gm charbroiled prime steak flecked with black pepper is artfully flambéed with brandy at your tableside. Medium rare is the way to go, to appreciate the meat's natural jus but the accompanying wicked VSOP sauce does it ample justice too.

Weighing at about 1kilo, lesser mortals would have quaked at the sight of Boathouse's Baked Holland Pork Belly Rib (RM78++). Heck, our dining party had no such problems and gamely demolished the gargantuan portion of buttery-tender belly pork. It's a painstaking speciality that demands loads of TLC - slowly baked over Granny Smith apples, the rib has to be charbroiled after, to caramelise the fat and crisp up the skin. Then some housemade apple BBQ sauce is doused over it for that perfect finishing touch. 

The solo pasta offering of Fettucine Carbonara with Real Bacon & Caviar (RM39++) was almost eclipsed by the surfeit of porcine delights earlier had it not been laden with chopped bacon. Honestly, I'm not big on this cloying rich pasta but I daresay some kids and a few teens will beg to differ.

More retro revival was in store when desserts arrived. As the blue flames lapped at our Bombe Alaska (RM35++), it evoked an instant throwback to the Merlin Ballroom aeons ago when I first encountered this treat. A dome-shaped cake layered with chocolate and vanilla ice cream, studded with strawberry and rum-soaked raisins, the confection is covered with satiny meringue. Once the flames have disappeared, we dug in with gusto; the simple but impressive old-school confection taking me down memory lane.

Stale bread just don't cut it at Boathouse as far as Chef Yenni's bake-to-order Jamaican Bread & Butter Pudding (RM26++) goes. You'd need patience too to enjoy this dessert as it takes 25 minutes to prepare the layers of bread and butter, sprinkled with rum-macerated raisins and banana slices and soaked in fresh egg custard. Topped with a crumbly crust and baked to perfection, the piping hot dish is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream - a sensational dessert that artfully melds fire and ice!

If you feel all these effusive praises are too far-fetched, the proof of the pudding is in its eating. Go dine at Boathouse and you'd discover the solid substance and ship-shape style that has kept Chef Yenni Law in the challenging F&B scene for over a decade.
 

Boathouse
16 Lorong Rahim Kajai 14
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel:  03-7727-4426 - See more at: http://pureglutton.com/boathouse-ttdi-kuala-lumpur-food-to-rock-your-tummy-heart#sthash.LrSuMKFE.dpuf

For reservations, call Boathouse, tel:  03-7727-4426. The restaurant is located at 16 Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Open Mon-Sat 12 noon-2 am; closed on Sun.

BACONY PIG-OUT AT SMOKING HOG

One foodie's bacon is another man's poison as far as Smoking Hog (SH) is concerned. The new resto upstairs from Crab Factory has generated such heated debate in FB and blogs that I reckon it is best you judge for yourself before saying 'yay' or 'nay'.

The bacon used in this resto is smoked on premise (up on the rooftop in a barbecue contraption) and some are lightly candied for certain dishes. TY Ooi and her partners have spent hours to test and experiment dishes for their menu so expect some curveballs that will catch you by surprise. Some offerings would go down better than others I suspect as the pairing of sweet and savoury remains an acquired taste among local palates.

Yours truly love everything bacon so Smoking Hog definitely gets a 'YAY' from moi, especially the signature Bacones (RM27). Just feed me two of the crisp smoked bacon cones (essentially bacon strips layered and rolled up into cones) stuffed with mash, scrambled eggs and SH's housemade baked beans and I'm a deliriously happy camper. They taste scrumptious slathered with the house tomato sauce (it's way better than the bottled stuff) but seriously, they're good enough on their own.

For those who like a little 'dramatic' effect with their food, SH's Signature Smoking Cheeseburger (RM34) literally gets smoke in your eyes as it comes to the table, covered in a glass dome lid filled with roiling wisps of smoke. The juicy burger patty is made from pork, beef and lamb mince with chopped onion. A slice of melted cheddar complemented by sliced gherkins, tomato and lettuce complete the tempting offering with fries and tomato sauce on the side. Burger maniacs rejoice!

IMHO, the classic BLT is never boring but hey, some crabby treatment here never hurts as SH's Ultimate Soft Shell Crab BLT (RM29) proves. I was sceptical the combo would work but it turns out better than expected...the chunky pieces of fried soft shell crabs and coleslaw lend a nice moreish taste to the ensemble so no complaints there.

If you feel guilty scarfing down so much bacon, order a portion of Caesar Salad (RM22) to boost your green intake. Not that it's any less indulgent mind you ;p ...the fresh romaine lettuce is tossed with bacon bits, salted egg and fried ikan bilis (anchovies) and topped with a poached egg. Chockful of rich, voluptuous flavours that leave you smacking your lips after the last leaf is devoured. Yums!

Ardent 'egg heads' would crack up over the eggs-cellent dishes available: Deviled Eggs (RM26 for six halves) and Runny Pan Omelette or Scrambled Eggs (RM22) are just but two options. The former has mashed egg yolks with avocado while the latter is cooked to order with a choice of mix cheeses, mushrooms or cherry tomatoes complemented by two slices of toasted Ciabatta. Personally, I'd roll with the latter though the cheesy version is strictly for fromage fans.

 

The Spaghetti Bolognese (RM33) features a tomato-based meaty sauce that again mixes the 'unholy' trilogy of beef, pork and lamb. I find it's a rather ho-hum option but heck, I'm sure no self-respecting spagbol fan will care two hoots what I think.

SH also brings new meaning to the 'ear to tail' eating with its Pig's Ear & Oxtail Stew (RM58) - marrying local pig's ears with Aussie waygu oxtail in a viscous stew brimming with barley, mushroom, mashed potato and grilled vegetable. It's disconcerting to see a whole piece of pig's ear in the milieu but overall, it's an earthy dish that should appeal to diners who have a penchant for innards, offal and such or those who want a dose of natural collagen.

Those with kids in tow may like the Mushroom Bacon Soup (RM16) - a creamy-rich, earthy broth flecked with smoked bacon bits. I surprised myself when I lapped up every spoonful but then, I abhor the thought of all those bacon bits going to waste.

In case you have pals who eschew pork, the Lamb, Brown Rice & Barley Soup (RM35) is a hefty meal on its own thanks to the whole lamb shank in it. Honestly, I was too distracted by the porky dishes served hence this particular dish just fell below my radar but I noticed several tables actually had it so presumably it's a hit in its own right.

What do you get when you cross pancakes with crepes? Dutch babies that's what. Baked until puffy then collapsing back into flatten pieces, you can sample Dutch Babies with eight different toppings such as Nutella, Crumbled Cookies & Ice Cream (RM22) and Chicken/Pork Sausages with Avocado/Tomato Salsa (RM24). A substantial serving that's enough for brekkie or lunch, their mouthfeel are chewier than normal pancakes.

I prefer the deliciously indulgent French Toast (RM27) which has two slices of thick-cut bread cooked with a hint of whisky and adorned with roughly crushed nuts, smoked bacon and bananas. A dollop of vanilla ice cream and maple syrup served on the side completes this perfect platter.

Equally notable is Beer & Bacon Mancakes (RM25), an adult version of pancakes made with Guinness Stout-laced batter. The fluffy pancakes are stacked with candied smoked bacon and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and some maple syrup, resulting in a melding of sweet-savoury accents and crispy-fluffy soft textures.

Beer & Bacon Mancakes pix courtesy of Smoking Hog

Sweet encores appear in the form of Bacon & Egg Ice Cream (RM24) or Havana Rum & Raisin Ice Cream (RM16). Churned on premise, the former is loaded with bacon bits and accompanied by more crispy smoked candied bacon while the latter is boozy enough to leave you smiling from ear-to-ear.

First-time patrons will have to head to the side entrance of Crab Factory (Smoking Hog is on the 3rd Floor) and look for a flying pig sign. Take the lift up and you'd enter a dark, clubby space with dimmed lighting. Plush velvet-upholstered studded and leather armchairs, a long table carved out from a solid tree trunk and brass shaded lamps evoke a quirky, arty ambiance to dine in.

TY stresses that SH is an informal bistro that's conceived to be an inviting space where patrons can hang out with friends after a decadent pig-out session. A flight of wooden stairs adorned with specially commissioned art pieces leads to an upstairs dining cum lounge area as well as open-air rooftop patio. 

A bacon haven for an oink-ing good time...what more can you ask for?

For reservations, call SMOKING HOG, tel: 03-7865 9239. Address: 3rd Floor, 21, Jalan SS2/64, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Tues, Wed & Thurs 11 am-11pm, Fri 11am-1am, Sat 9am-1am and Sun 9am-11am. Closed on Monday.