NEW ITALIAN FLAVOURS AT ENOTECA

Change is a constant in life and it's no different in the restaurant business. As of last October, Neroteca - a cosy Italian restaurant in Damansara Heights is now rebranded as Enoteca with new owners, management and chef in place. 

 

We had the honour of meeting the new Enoteca team recently, comprising Domenico Ferroni or Mimmo the affable Floor Manager from Roma, Annie Lim who's responsible for marketing and Abruzzo native, Chef Stefano Criber.

 

Positioned as a casual fine dining Italian restaurant serving up non-halal Italian cuisine, Mimmo assured us Chef Stefano strives to keep the house specialities as authentic as possible. Naturally, diners will find a handful of specialities from both Roma and Abruzzo alongside more familiar pasta, pizza, mains and dessert.

Interior-wise, the layout clad primarily in monochromatic shades remains intact. The intimate row of alcove seats are a magnet for romance seekers while a sleek floor-to-ceiling, glassy wine cellar takes pride of place at the back of the main dining space.

While we waited in anticipation for the chef's selection to be prepared, Mimmo treated us to an uplifting glass of sparkling Prosecco. The perfect ice-breaker to pave the way for the signature Tagliere Enoteca (RM99 full serving; RM50 half serving).

Freshly baked garlic focaccia served as the delicious canvas to showcase the six varieties of premium Italian cold cuts, two types of Italian cheese and antipasti: grilled vegetables and arancini (cheese stuffed rice balls deep-fried in breadcrumb coating). A substantial platter designed for sharing so it went down a storm with us from the get-go.

Octopus is the 'it' seafood now, its versatility revered by chefs from the East and West. At Enoteca, the sublime Piovra Arrosto Con Spuma Di Burrata & Pesto Rosso -- boiled and grilled octopus with mousse of burrata cheese and red Mediterranean pesto sauce knocked our socks off with its appetising textural and flavour composition, whetting our appetite for the much anticipated feast ahead.

"NO cream!" declared Mimmo when he presented the Spaghetti Alla Carbonara (RM35) with a flourish. Yup, real spaghetti carbonara doesn't include cream. Instead, the lightly rich sauce was made using eggs, black pepper and pecorino cheese. The suckerpunch of deep-seated savouriness was bestowed by bits of guanciela -- fatty Roman pork cheek bacon. It was soooo good!

Ah, rivalling the spaghetti in the taste department is Chitarra Alla Montanara, an egg pasta typical of Abruzzo; the strands cut using an implement known as chitarra (pronounced key-tahr-rah, Italian for guitar). Tossed with porcini and chunky Italian sausage in brown sauce perfumed with truffle oil, the scrumptious housemade spaghetti was a befitting tribute to Chef Stefano's roots.

Want something luxe to sink your teeth into? Then call ahead a day in advance to request for the new speciality of Chitarra Alla Aragosta. Sautéed with chunky tomatoes, the pasta embraced the delicate sweetness of lobster meat, making it a sumptuous delight to relish.

Creamy, aromatic butter sauce with crushed walnuts lent warm rusticity and comforting appeal to Cappelletti Di Ricotta, Spinaci In Salsa Di Burro Aromatico & Noci (RM32), another new menu debutante. Any Italian mama worth her salt would approve of the tender,  handmade ravioli dumplings filled with ricotta and spinach in that pool of sinfully lush sauce.

The wood-fire pizza oven on premise means this perennial Italian fave is guaranteed to be on-point. Simplest but the best representation of a true Italian pizza has to be the classic Margherita & Basilica Pizza (RM26). Generous slather of tomato sauce, lots of mozzarella and fresh basil atop a thicker than usual crust ensured this pizza was superbly satisfying. Another variant that got the nod from us was the Gorgonzola Salsiccia Pizza -- a winsome dual topping of melted gorgozola cheese and chunky housemade pork sausage.

Apple cider vinegar formed part of the marinade for the pork chops or more correctly, Costoletta Di Maiale Ai Funghi Porcini & Raviolo Di Patate & Mele Al Ginepro.

According to Chef Stefano, the meat was marinated for 24 hours before it was sou vide.  To complete the dish, the pork chop is seared and served with demi-glace alongside roast potatoes. While the saucy pork jus splatters didn't do justice to the look of the dish, we assure you the resultant taste scored highly among our dining party.

 

More pork for thought appeared in Stinco Di Maiale Alla Birra E Miele (RM68), Chef Stefano's signature Italian pork shank braised in red wine served with boiled vegetables. While the meat was tender, it remained toothsome to the bite and suffused with the discernible wine and herb accents. A dish evocative of a heartwarming Italian hearth and home.

Appreciative oohs and aahs were heard the minute our palates got a sampling of Tagliata Di Pluma Iberico Al Tre Pepi Su Letto Di Rucola & Carciofi Grigliati (RM105), Iberico pork neck slices with 3 types of peppercorns. Grilled and served with rocket and marinated grilled artichoke, we made short work of the yummilicious pork secretly wishing for more.

Less is more holds true when it comes to La Milanese (RM32), a deceptively pared down fried pork chop. The flattened and lightly breaded fillet cooked in clarified butter left us smitten; its juicy sweetness resonated on our tastebuds via creamy mash potatoes and the housemade yoghurt dip.

Italians are sticklers for tradition hence there's no surprises in the dessert department. Most diners wouldn't dream of leaving without the typical pick-me-upper of Tiramisu (RM24). The coffee-flavoured ladyfinger sponge layered with mascarpone was mildly laced with alcohol but upon request, you can order extra shots of grand marnier to give the dessert more boozy kick.

I particularly enjoyed Semifreddo Al Pistacchio (RM24), frozen pistachio mousse with its pistochio biscuit crust. A defyingly simple treat to leave an indelible impression if you're partial to everything nutty.

Surefire crowd-pleasing Chocolate Lava (RM28), warm molten chocolate cake with vanilla gelato is on the menu too. Dark, fluffy and oozing with liquid chocolate at the core, most people will find this too irresistible to pass up.

Again, the failsafe option is to savour the house-churned I Nostri Gelati (RM15) in a choice of pistachio, chocolate or vanilla. Served in cialde, housemade wafer 'flower' cups, the cool treats wrapped up our visit to Enoteca on a pleasantly sweet note.

For reservations, call Enoteca Italian Restaurant KL, tel: 03 2011 5725. Address: 15 & 17, Plaza Damansara, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.
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12 GOOD DISHES TO EAT AT AN VIET

Ăn Viet literally means ‘eat Viet’. An apt name for the casual dining restaurant which opened at The Gardens Mall, Mid Valley City in November 2015. The second outlet at Sunway Pyramid opened in January this year with a 3^rd coming to Penang by year end.

New menu addition of Bun Suon - Vietnamese soup with pork ribs & bamboo shoot

It is one of the regular haunts for us who never tire of eating Ăn Viet’s delicious Vietnamese fare. I like the resto's concept of letting you decide how much noodles or rice which minimises food wastage – a fabulous and socially conscious idea in view of reports stating 1/3 of overall food produced goes to waste when half the world’s poorest population goes hungry.

New and existing specialities found in Ăn Viet's latest menu are great for communal sharing. Here's my recommendation for 12 good dishes (*denotes new items) to try at Ăn Viet:

*Banh Trang Tron – Rice Paper & Green Mango Salad (RM13.90)

Fitness buffs and salad lovers will like this DIY appetiser. Presented in a clasped mason jar, you are supposed to tip in the special house sauces and freshly squeezed lime juice into the shredded mango, cucumber, hardboiled quail egg halves and rice paper strips. 

Close the lid and give the jar a good shake - think of it as strength training (LOL) - to mix everything up then pour into the bowl provided. Right off the bat, the zingy and robust flavours and varied textures should raise the likeability-meter way up.

Banh Trang Nuong - Grilled Rice Paper with Minced Pork (RM9.90) 

Crispy rice paper pancake filled with minced pork, egg and dried shrimp char-grilled to toasty perfection. Light yet tasty, it can be eaten on its own or Ăn Viet's house fish sauce and chilli dip.

Xoi Chien Phong - Deep-fried Sticky Rice Puff with Green Mango Salad & Grilled Lemongrass Chicken (RM14.90)

A unique speciality that always elicits amazed gasps when the golden brown ball arrived. Tear into the hollow ball and relish pieces of it topped with forkfuls of the accompanying chicken salad. Sublime!

Chao Tom – Grilled Sugarcane Prawn (RM11.90)

Often we avoid ordering this Vietnamese appetiser as most eateries tend to skimp on the minced prawn. Not so with Ăn Viet. We found the bouncy QQ prawn filling wrapped around juicy sugarcane sticks scrumptiously addictive, leaving us wanting more.

Canh Chua Ngao Nuoc Dua - Clams in Coconut Broth (RM14.90) 

Perfumed with dill, this sweet and subtly tangy broth is made using fresh coconut water and lemongrass in addition to plump hard shell clams. Soups up the sweet spot for us.

Goi Cuon - Fresh Spring Roll with Tiger Prawns (RM9.90)

Light, satisfying and packed with shredded fresh veggies, herbs and sliced tiger prawns, these mildly chewy rolls are always on-point. The diping sauce of fish sauce, minced garlic and chilli is lighter compared to southern Vietnamese hoisin sauce dip but it's sufficient to enhance the rolls’ fresh and delicate nuances.

*Pho Bo Dac Biet - Vietnamese Beef Noodle Special (RM23.90 a la carte, RM27.90 set)

Hailed as the national dish of Vietnam, Ăn Viet takes its pho seriously. The scrumptious broth is simmered with beef bones and various secret ingredients for 12 hours. The  comes in your choice of noodle portions, from as little as 80g to the maximum 200g serving. A myriad of textural dimensions comes to the fore from the beef slices, tendon and house-made beef balls handcrafted using pure beef mince and devoid of additives. To soak up the flavourful broth, some fried yu tiao (dough fritters) are provided on the side.

Just add beansprouts and fresh basil (diners at the Sunway Pyramid outlet can pluck fresh organic basil from pots of the plant on every table), squeeze some lime juice over the noodles and add the house sriracha chilli sauce to taste and presto! You'd be slurping up every strand of the delectable noodles.

*Cha Ca La Vong - Hanoian Fish with Turmeric & Dill (RM23.90 a la carte, RM27.90 set)
Made famous dish by Cha Ca La Vong restaurant in Hanoi, this popular speciality is Ăn Viet's own take of it. Perfumed by the herbs and sweetened by caramelised onion, the saucy fish pieces goes well with coarse Vietnamese vermicelli.

To enjoy this dish, tear lettuce into your bowl. Add vermicelli, fish, peanuts and herbs on top. Mix everything up and eat it hot with nuoc cham (fish sauce dip) and mam tom (fermented shrimp sauce).

Bun Cha - Hanoi Style Grilled Pork with Vermicelli (RM18.90 a la carte, RM22.90 set)

A typical Vietnamese dish fit for former US President Barack Obama and celeb chef Anthony Bourdain. Ăn Viet’s version includes slices of belly pork, minced pork balls and lean pork for extra textural interest. Again the right way to eat this is to tear lettuce into bite-size pieces, add them to the dipping sauce of basil and mint then dip the vermicelli into it. Pair each mouthful with a piece of pork for an unbeatable gastronomic experience.

 

*Banh Mi: Dau Phu Voi Pate Nam - Vietnamese Baguette with Tofu Patty & Mushroom Pate (RM14.90)

A wholesome vegetarian offering that even meat eaters will like. Sink your teeth into this ultra-crispy, airy-light baguette stuffed with toasty beancurd and mushroom pate. Pickles, fresh vegetables, coriander and Sriracha sauce bestow layers of tantalising accents, loading this sandwich with winsome meat-free goodness.

*Caramel (RM6.90)

A legacy from the French colonial days, this smooth, dainty pudding is richly satisfying with a deep caramelised finish. Complement with hot, refillable Vietnamese Artichoke Tea (RM6.90 for a cup, RM9.90 for a pot) or the potent Vietnamese Drip Coffee with Egg (RM9.90).

*Viet-ffogato (RM9.90)
Want a post-meal caffeine buzz? Look no further than the indulgent treat of condensed milk ice cream with Vietnamese coffee and some coconut milk. Bitter sweet takes on pleasantly new albeit agreeable meaning when you sip this at your own sweet time.

The above dishes are but a fraction of what's available at this convivial restaurant. Keep your eyes and tastebuds peeled for other homely fare such as Lon Kho Nuoc Dua - Braised Pork Belly in Coconut Juice (RM17.90 a la carte), Bun Ga - Grilled Lemongrass Chicken with Vermicelli (RM16.90 a la carte) and Bun Suon - Vietnamese Vermicelli Soup with Pork Ribs & Bamboo Shoot (RM19.90 a la carte) among others. 

Ăn Viet’s Kids Menu also present viable options for family dining. Thoughtfully and attractively served in whimsical trays, no kid can resist trying the cook-to-order, children-friendly food options here.

For reservations, call Ăn Viet, tel: 03-2201 1191 (The Gardens Mall, Mid Valley) or 03-5611 2226 (Sunway Pyramid). Address: LG-203B, The Gardens Mall, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Mid Valley City, KL & LG2.127, Sunway Pyramid, Jalan PJS11/15, Bandar Sunway, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Website: www.anviet.com.my