NEW ITALIAN FLAVOURS AT ENOTECA

Change is a constant in life and it's no different in the restaurant business. As of last October, Neroteca - a cosy Italian restaurant in Damansara Heights is now rebranded as Enoteca with new owners, management and chef in place. 

 

We had the honour of meeting the new Enoteca team recently, comprising Domenico Ferroni or Mimmo the affable Floor Manager from Roma, Annie Lim who's responsible for marketing and Abruzzo native, Chef Stefano Criber.

 

Positioned as a casual fine dining Italian restaurant serving up non-halal Italian cuisine, Mimmo assured us Chef Stefano strives to keep the house specialities as authentic as possible. Naturally, diners will find a handful of specialities from both Roma and Abruzzo alongside more familiar pasta, pizza, mains and dessert.

Interior-wise, the layout clad primarily in monochromatic shades remains intact. The intimate row of alcove seats are a magnet for romance seekers while a sleek floor-to-ceiling, glassy wine cellar takes pride of place at the back of the main dining space.

While we waited in anticipation for the chef's selection to be prepared, Mimmo treated us to an uplifting glass of sparkling Prosecco. The perfect ice-breaker to pave the way for the signature Tagliere Enoteca (RM99 full serving; RM50 half serving).

Freshly baked garlic focaccia served as the delicious canvas to showcase the six varieties of premium Italian cold cuts, two types of Italian cheese and antipasti: grilled vegetables and arancini (cheese stuffed rice balls deep-fried in breadcrumb coating). A substantial platter designed for sharing so it went down a storm with us from the get-go.

Octopus is the 'it' seafood now, its versatility revered by chefs from the East and West. At Enoteca, the sublime Piovra Arrosto Con Spuma Di Burrata & Pesto Rosso -- boiled and grilled octopus with mousse of burrata cheese and red Mediterranean pesto sauce knocked our socks off with its appetising textural and flavour composition, whetting our appetite for the much anticipated feast ahead.

"NO cream!" declared Mimmo when he presented the Spaghetti Alla Carbonara (RM35) with a flourish. Yup, real spaghetti carbonara doesn't include cream. Instead, the lightly rich sauce was made using eggs, black pepper and pecorino cheese. The suckerpunch of deep-seated savouriness was bestowed by bits of guanciela -- fatty Roman pork cheek bacon. It was soooo good!

Ah, rivalling the spaghetti in the taste department is Chitarra Alla Montanara, an egg pasta typical of Abruzzo; the strands cut using an implement known as chitarra (pronounced key-tahr-rah, Italian for guitar). Tossed with porcini and chunky Italian sausage in brown sauce perfumed with truffle oil, the scrumptious housemade spaghetti was a befitting tribute to Chef Stefano's roots.

Want something luxe to sink your teeth into? Then call ahead a day in advance to request for the new speciality of Chitarra Alla Aragosta. Sautéed with chunky tomatoes, the pasta embraced the delicate sweetness of lobster meat, making it a sumptuous delight to relish.

Creamy, aromatic butter sauce with crushed walnuts lent warm rusticity and comforting appeal to Cappelletti Di Ricotta, Spinaci In Salsa Di Burro Aromatico & Noci (RM32), another new menu debutante. Any Italian mama worth her salt would approve of the tender,  handmade ravioli dumplings filled with ricotta and spinach in that pool of sinfully lush sauce.

The wood-fire pizza oven on premise means this perennial Italian fave is guaranteed to be on-point. Simplest but the best representation of a true Italian pizza has to be the classic Margherita & Basilica Pizza (RM26). Generous slather of tomato sauce, lots of mozzarella and fresh basil atop a thicker than usual crust ensured this pizza was superbly satisfying. Another variant that got the nod from us was the Gorgonzola Salsiccia Pizza -- a winsome dual topping of melted gorgozola cheese and chunky housemade pork sausage.

Apple cider vinegar formed part of the marinade for the pork chops or more correctly, Costoletta Di Maiale Ai Funghi Porcini & Raviolo Di Patate & Mele Al Ginepro.

According to Chef Stefano, the meat was marinated for 24 hours before it was sou vide.  To complete the dish, the pork chop is seared and served with demi-glace alongside roast potatoes. While the saucy pork jus splatters didn't do justice to the look of the dish, we assure you the resultant taste scored highly among our dining party.

 

More pork for thought appeared in Stinco Di Maiale Alla Birra E Miele (RM68), Chef Stefano's signature Italian pork shank braised in red wine served with boiled vegetables. While the meat was tender, it remained toothsome to the bite and suffused with the discernible wine and herb accents. A dish evocative of a heartwarming Italian hearth and home.

Appreciative oohs and aahs were heard the minute our palates got a sampling of Tagliata Di Pluma Iberico Al Tre Pepi Su Letto Di Rucola & Carciofi Grigliati (RM105), Iberico pork neck slices with 3 types of peppercorns. Grilled and served with rocket and marinated grilled artichoke, we made short work of the yummilicious pork secretly wishing for more.

Less is more holds true when it comes to La Milanese (RM32), a deceptively pared down fried pork chop. The flattened and lightly breaded fillet cooked in clarified butter left us smitten; its juicy sweetness resonated on our tastebuds via creamy mash potatoes and the housemade yoghurt dip.

Italians are sticklers for tradition hence there's no surprises in the dessert department. Most diners wouldn't dream of leaving without the typical pick-me-upper of Tiramisu (RM24). The coffee-flavoured ladyfinger sponge layered with mascarpone was mildly laced with alcohol but upon request, you can order extra shots of grand marnier to give the dessert more boozy kick.

I particularly enjoyed Semifreddo Al Pistacchio (RM24), frozen pistachio mousse with its pistochio biscuit crust. A defyingly simple treat to leave an indelible impression if you're partial to everything nutty.

Surefire crowd-pleasing Chocolate Lava (RM28), warm molten chocolate cake with vanilla gelato is on the menu too. Dark, fluffy and oozing with liquid chocolate at the core, most people will find this too irresistible to pass up.

Again, the failsafe option is to savour the house-churned I Nostri Gelati (RM15) in a choice of pistachio, chocolate or vanilla. Served in cialde, housemade wafer 'flower' cups, the cool treats wrapped up our visit to Enoteca on a pleasantly sweet note.

For reservations, call Enoteca Italian Restaurant KL, tel: 03 2011 5725. Address: 15 & 17, Plaza Damansara, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.
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CHEF FRANCISCO ARAYA HOLDS COURT AT THE LIBRARY

I couldn’t think of a better way to celebrate my birthday than being wined and dined at The Library of the Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur. The luncheon showcased award-winning chef Francisco Araya whose modern European cuisine - in this instance a coterie of his refined seafood specialities - left us landlubbers gasping in awe.

 

Guesting at The Library from 6 to 10 March, the dishy Shanghai-based Chilean proved to be a notable choice to kick-off the Ritz-Carlton's highly anticipated Guest Chef Dinner Series 2018. His impeccable credentials include his present Executive Chef position at NAPA Wine Bar & Kitchen, stints with Chile’s fine Alegre restaurant and Tokyo’s 81 Restaurant where he was awarded one Michelin star for his artful wizardry at melding Latin American, European and Asian influences.

An excellent San Feletto Prosecco Brut opened our lunch on high spirits. Crisp, bright and moderately dry, the Italian sparkling wine awash with delicate fruity, vanilla and nutty nuances boasts a long, satisfying finish. Truly a worthy choice to accompany the chef’s opening volley.

Araya's impressive wealth of experience drawn from Chef Ferran Adrià’s legendary three Michelin-starred restaurant El Bulli came to the fore from the get-go with his playful amuse-bouche: a triumvirate of Crispy Scallop and Herbs, Smoked Celeriac Hen Egg followed by Tomato Water with Shrimp & Watermelon, and a Beetroot Tartelette.

We were astounded by the various components of this stunning curtain-raiser. Starting with an impossibly thin, crispy savoury scallop skin dotted with dill cream, it was well-matched by a dainty coin of a tartlette anointed with a dollop of refreshing beetroot purée.

Served in a whole egg shell, the cloud-light celeriac mousse evoked spasms of shivery delight in us before we proceeded to slurp up every drop of the umami-rich tomato water. Tiny cubes of watermelon frolicked with a sweet, springy poached prawn for textural and flavour contrasts.

The pace picked up with a whole slippery Oyster crowned with Caviar and Cauliflower Cream. Flecks of fresh lime zest and sichimi (smoky, sweet ground red chilli and Japanese sansho pepper) bestowed fleeting yet discernible accents into the sumptuous dish. It was superbly paired with Vionta Albariño Blanca, a Spanish white brimming with complex tropical fruit notes and crisp acidity on the palate.

We then discovered warm gingery notes melding harmoniously with the inherent sweetness of the exquisite Scallop Ceviche. Supplemented by a chorus of clean, refreshing cilantro and green apple flavours, it came with Ventisquero Reserva Sauvignon Blanc - an on-point wine flaunting elegant citrus, pineapple and floral dimensions.

Chef Francisco's game-changing Arroz Verde or green rice held us spellbound with its luxuriant creaminess and lush oceanic sweetness. His secret? Using clam stock and spinach purée to render the plump short-grain arborio rice until the grains turned soft albeit nutty to the bite. Translucent carpaccio slices of Carabinero shrimp — deep-sea red shrimp  coveted for its robust flavour — and crispy fried prawn legs heightened the dish’s appeal.

We swooned as the delicious creation formed a winsome alliance with Vina Muriel Reserva Blanco Viura — a rich, straw gold Spanish white with whiffs of lime, floral and oak overtones.

Our gastronomic adventure continued with the otherworldly speciality of Shrimp with Yuba, Caramelised Onion & Dill hitting our palate on a meteoric scale flavour-wise. Sous vide in olive oil for half an hour, the tender, springy tiger prawn reclining on a silky soft sheet of yuba left us gobsmacked. The unctuous caramelised onion bits & savoury dill sauce were to-die-for, a perfect counterpoint to the dollop of celeriac puree hidden underneath the sheer skein of yuba and little wedges of baby radishes.

Crisp, mellow tropical fruitiness of the Ventisquero Reserva Chardonnay proved a spot-on match for the Japanese Orange Sea Bream with Calamari and Zucchini Blossom. Every element of the dish – from the fried zucchini flower stuffed with prawn mousse to the splash of squid ink sauce and intensely flavoured prawn bisque was so raveworthy and refined, we felt as if we had soared to heaven. Honestly, it took all our willpower to resist from licking the plate clean!

The dessert of Almond Financier with Pandan Ice Cream couldn’t eclipse the earlier show-stoppers. Decent though the little cakes were, their pairing with the quenelle of pandan flavoured ice cream and bits of raspberries barely made an impact with us. The saving grace was the surprisingly good Roustabout Late Harvest Viognier, a likeable tangy-sweet dessert wine with expressive of herbal-floral aromas.

Catch Chef Francisco Araya at The Library until 10 March from 7pm until 11pm. His mastery will be showcased in a seven-course dinner priced at RM350 nett per person with an option of wine pairing at RM500 nett per person. 

For reservations and enquiries, please call The Ritz-Carlton KL, tel: 03 2142 8000 or email:  dining@ritzcarlton.com.my.