35TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIALS AT NEW FORMOSA

Klang Valley's F&B biz is one of the toughest so it is indeed a cause for much celebration when New Formosa Restaurant in SS2, PJ reached its 35th anniversary milestone recently. The owners - chef Lee Weng Eng and his Taiwanese wife, Mrs Jeanie Lee - have established New Formosa Restaurant as one of PJ's bastions of Chinese cuisine; their signature Taiwanese specialities have kept diners returning throughout the years.

While her husband cooks up a storm in the kitchen, Mrs Jeanie Lee holds court as the restaurant's consummate PR; an extremely generous and hospitable host who ensures everyone eats their fill and would send food reviewers and bloggers on their merry way home with extra portions of food to boot!

In conjunction with New Formosa's 35th Anniversary, the enterprising lady has created special *set menus priced at RM188 and RM238 for 6 persons, for tables of 10 persons RM498 and RM668. Some of its famed signature dishes that have cemented New Formosa's long-standing reputation were served for preview; giving us a taste of its success secrets.

For me, the show-stopping dish is Feng Sha Chicken (roasted chicken stuffed with eight treasures). It's hard to say which part I enjoy more: the crispy skin, the juicy meat or the incredibly delicious stuffing of brown rice, mushroom, onion, minced pork, sausage, dried shrimps, chestnuts and shallots.

Coming in a close second is the Taiwanese-style Steamed Crab with Brown Rice. According to Mrs Lee, this traditional treat is stuffed with glutinous rice but Chef Lee has given a healthy twist by using unpolished brown rice which is easily digestible instead. Boosting the flavour profile further are black mushroom, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, chestnuts and onion. 

 The rice is so good that I'd be happy to fill up on that and leave the huge, meaty crab claws for die-hard crab fans. Having said that, the chunks of sweet crab meat are really moreish when dipped into the zesty ginger and vinegar sauce that is served with it. 

Soup lovers would be bowled over by the Simmered Winter Melon - an impressive offering of refreshing and nutritious winter melon soup that has been simmered for over 4 hours in a whole winter melon. 

 

 Prepared with diced chicken, fish maw, mushroom, ginkgo nuts and dried baby scallops, the broth's clear, delicate sweetness is heartwarming and comforting especially for those who yearn for mom's cooking.

More robust accents emerge from the Steamed Fish Sichuan Style in which a whole seabass is steamed to perfection. Soused in an appetisingly tangy and spicy sauce, the fish's natural sweetness was evident. We also had a field day mopping up the piquant sauce with pieces of fried man tou.

Lighter dishes from the set menu include Fried Mushrooms and Shell Meat with Fried Fritters and Stuffed Lotus Root with Special Fish Paste. The simple mixture of wood ear fungus, enoki, ginkgo nuts and carrot sauteed with local la la clams and chopped yau char kwai (Chinese crullers) in a unctuous clear sauce makes for a nice contrast from the slew of indulgent offerings.

Another delightful creation is crunchy lotus root which comes stuffed with special housemade fish paste that reminds me of otak-otak. Complemented by chunks of board mustard stalks, straw mushroom and enoki in a thick, clear sauce, it also got two thumbs up from us.

Mrs Lee also persuaded us to try New Formosa's Crispy Deep Fried Sesame Chicken - an irresistible speciality that goes well with beer drinkers. After one bite, we too were sold!  Coated in crunchy, golden sesame seed-flecked batter, the pieces of chicken was polished off within seconds.

Dessert options are aplenty here and again we had the chance to sample the mainstays which Taiwan are known for: Handmade Mua Chi, Lemon Aiyu Jelly in Sour Plum Juice, and Yam in Honey Sauce. Those little nuggets of glutinous rice balls covered in crushed peanuts are pretty addictive so find some restraint if you plan to sample the other treats.

 Muachi (top) and aiyu jelly (below)

The refreshing lemon aiyu jelly (a gelatinous citrusy dessert made from the seeds of a fig-like fruit) with tapioca ‘pearls’ in sour plum juice is a godsend for our sweltering weather. But it has to be the yam in honey sauce that gets my vote. 

Imagine piping hot pieces of powdery yam coated in melted, caramelized sugar and sesame seeds then plunged into ice water to cool the sugar coating. The combination of powdery softness of steaming hot yam against the hard and crackly, cold and nutty honeyed shell is unbeatable.
"The Teochew side of my husband's family is represented by Pumpkin and Ginkgo Nut Yam Paste" says Mrs Lee proudly. It's a labourious dessert to make but heavenly to eat as the rich yam paste is balanced by the pumpkin while the ginkgo lends some textural contrast.

*It is advisable to call ahead and reserve the special menu as everything is prepared fresh to order. Menu prices based on cash term basis.

For more information and reservations, call 03 7875 7478. New Formosa address: 46, Jalan SS2/24, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

OUT OF WEST AFRICA

Tucked away in a discreet corner of Publika, few people realise this rather snazzy Cocobar & Kitchen Club Lounge adorned with billowy, satiny drapes and shiny patterned steel finish feature walls serve some of the tastiest West African fare in this part of the city.

Lolling comfortably on one of the sectional lounges, plush sofas and ottomans, we warmed up to the place with some of the house cocktails rustled up by the bartender (or mixologist as they are known nowadays).

Pink Pussy to add a blush to your face...a mixture of milk, grenadine, triple sec & vodka

Sexy Lesley to tickle your cocktail fancy

We were tickled pink by some of the concoctions' racy names such as Sexy Lesley and Pink Pussy but if you feel prudish asking for them, try more sedate-sounding Chocotini or Sea Breeze. Most of the cocktails  are priced from RM20 onwards. Cocobar also has an extensive range of shooters, wine, beer, liquor and champagne to boost your spirits up all night long.

Sea Breeze to ensure your evening at Cocobar remains smooth sailing

Should you feel peckish, keep hunger pangs at bay with light & easy finger food such as Hot & Spicy Mexican Chicken (RM15 - 6 pcs) - chicken wings coated in a piquantly tangy-fiery sauce. Think Tex-Mex buffalo wings with enticing hints of full-bodied sweetness. They are so scrumptious you'd pick the bones clean.

Fiery Mexican Chicken to set your tastebuds ablaze

The Coco's Spicy Gizzard (RM15) is another conversation stopper. It is amazing how a coarse, tongue-searing blend of chilli, garlic and African spices can transform such humble 'spare parts' into such sublime, mind-blowing morsels. A definite 'must try' if you're big on gizzard.

Guzzle on these delectable gizzards

Being the ignoramuses that we are, Cocobar owner Andy Daniel told us that chilli peppers, spices and herbs are prevalently used in West African cooking especially in Nigeria. Surprisingly, rice is a staple too besides maize (corn).

Rice and shine out of Western Africa

Proof of the pudding can be found in Cocobar's African Fried Rice Special (RM45) which is as different as chalk and cheese from our local version. You'd have to wait a good 45 minutes to an hour for it but trust me, the dish is well worth the wait. A platter of golden saffron yellow, every grain of the rice is suffused with deep-seated flavour. Apparently, its painstaking preparation requires the rice to be par-boiled and washed several times before the rest of the other ingredients are added. Studded with bits of sausage and mixed vegetable, the rice is complemented by fried plantain and a big chunk of fried fish on the side. Being the rice fiends that we are, we left no grain unfinished.

A real hooker of a fish to tantalise you

Like the proverbial saying not to judge a book by its cover, we learned not to judge a Grilled Whole Seabass with Plantain (RM85 with two glasses of red or white wine) by its plain appearance. Topped with some raw, fresh onion rings alongside green peli chilli sauce and mayonnaise, the fish reeled us in with its inherent sweetness. Marinated with chilli, onion and some stock before grilling, it made for very good eating when complemented by the creamy, sweat-inducing hot dips and nectar-sweet caramelised plantain.

Culture in a bowl...a collision of textures & flavours in the Egusi & Poundo combo

More adventurous eaters may like to sample Egusi with Poundo (RM35 & RM45), a typical West African soup. A far cry from the usual watery or creamy broths that we're familiar with, egusi is thick and grainy due to its base of ground melon seeds. Scented with spices and blended with smoked fish, boiled cow skin, spinach and chilli, it is eaten with poundo.

Traditionally made of pounded white yam (Dioscorea rotunda), the modern version simply calls for the mixing of processed yam powder with water to form rotund, dense loaves that looks like oversized Indian idli. On its own, poundo is completely tasteless with a heavy, starchy texture. You'd have to take bite-size portions of it and eat with the curd-like egusi, to let the egusi's melange of explosive accents to shine through.

Game for a real West African culinary adventure? Then Cocobar is a dark horse that's worth hedging your bets on.

COCO BAR &KITCHEN CLUB LOUNGE, Block D4-G4-9, Publika, Solaris Dutamas, Jalan Dutamas 1, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-6211 0708

ART OF TAO

YB Senator Kohilan Pillay (left) with InterContinental KL's GM Mr Phil Riley at the opening of Tao

After a two-month extensive facelift, InterContinental Kuala Lumpur finally unveiled Tao – its opulent Chinese restaurant with a series of special dinners that unleashed the culinary tour de force of its executive Chinese chef Wong Lian You and critically acclaimed chef Sam Leong from Singapore.

The honourable Deputy Minister doing the opening ceremony honours

A rousing lion dance performance kicked off the official opening night that saw was Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs YB Senator Kohilan Pillay as guest of honour. 

Elegant opulence underscores the new interior of Tao

As invited guests sauntered in, gasps of admiration were audible when they spied the glassy panels painted with multiple stems of pale pink peach blossoms flanking both sides of the entrance way and the stunning swirly cloud-shaped pin-prick lighting. Richly accentuated with dark wood and Oriental motifs, more vivid peach blossom accents adorn the main feature wall and carpet underfoot.

Chefs of a feather flock together...Wong Lian You and Sam Leong

With a slew of accolades and countless awards under his toque, the affable Sam Leong soon had everyone eating out of his hands and gushing over his famed Crispy Wasabi Prawns with Mango Salsa. Creamy with faint bursts of tongue-tingling wasabi, the springy crustaceans were perked up with an appetising mango salsa that intensified their natural sweetness.

Springy freshness to savour

Deep-seated briny, sweet flavours of the sea were prevalent in the Double Boiled Sea Whelks Consommé with Fresh Cordycep Flowers and Conpoy. We adored the soup's smooth unctuousness. The textural union between a whole, large conpoy (dried scallop), chewy sea whelks and strands of fresh cordycep flowers was amazingly surreal and lodged itself into our memory.

Soup-er indulgent treat

Robustly tart, salty and citrusy nuances reminiscent of Thai tom yum set our tastebuds alight as we sampled Leong's creation of Steamed Soon Hock Fillet with Spicy Tomato Broth. Spiked with garlic flakes and slivers of tomato, this distinct treat was a nice departure from the usual soya sauce and fragrant oil steamed fish.

Thai-rific influence reigns in this fish dish

My favourite dish of the evening was the Braised Free Range Duck Leg with Eight Treasures. Laid out on a handful of pickled julienne cabbage, it was a breeze devouring the delectable boneless duck roulade that came stuffed with lotus seeds, water chestnut dices and a host of other ingredients. 

You'd take to this sublime speciality like duck to water

Not to be outdone, Wong sifu (master) displayed his prowess by proffering Stewed Sea Cucumber with Dried Scallop and Winter Melon. A golden pool of carrot sauce surround a tender winter melon ring that had a whole conpoy in it. Paired with a dainty spiky "liu sum" sea cucumber and a baby bok choi, there was no faulting its artful melding of delicate sweetness and tender textures. 

Tender textures to tantalise your palate

It was a shame that we couldn't do justice to the Sautéed Broccolini with Wild Forest Mushroom and Crispy Yam. Despite the mashed yam ring's airy-light crust, we only managed to polish off the fungi pieces as the portion was far too generous after the succession of dishes we had.

One yam ring to rule them all

Thankfully the Wok Fried Glutinous Rice with Crab Meat and Whole Abalone proved more manageable. The fluffy grains were surprisingly light with none of the heavy stickiness that is normally associated with glutinous rice. Of course, the luxurious addition of crab meat and abalone helped tremendously to ramp up its irresistible quotient.

Grains of delicious truth

The night's icing on the cake turned out to be Green Tea and Mango Fondant with Lychee and Black Sesame Ice Cream. Murmurs of appreciation were heard all around even though the mango failed to make its presence felt amidst the strong green tea-based, molten centre fondant. Fortunately, the lychee fared better in the dulcet black sesame ice cream.

A dessert to make you go green with envy

Overall, it was a spectacular showing by the Tao team. Perusing the a la carte menu, our interest were piqued to find traditional Peking duck that could be 'pimped up' with foie gras, truffles or eringi mushroom, poached lamb fillet a la 'bak kut teh' style and chilled slow-cooked beef with mandarin skin and spices amongst some of the house specialities. Such interesting creations definitely call for an encore.

Tao, InterContinental Kuala Lumpur, 165 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2161 1111.