A MALAY FEAST AT ENAK KL

Chicken Satay (RM18) is possibly one of those quintessentially Malay specialities one never tires of eating. No wonder these grilled skewers of chicken take pride of place at Enak KL, the refreshed haven for Malay food at Feast Village, Starhill Gallery. Served with sizzling flair atop a mini charcoal grill, the half dozen skewers of chicken (or beef if you prefer) should be an ideal introduction for foreign visitors to Malaysia's fabulous multi-cultural foodscape.

Chef Rani Ghazali does such a great job with the satay that we reckon the tender, well-marinated and subtly smoky-sweet meat tastes delicious on its own. For extra flavour and textural dimension, feel free to dip the skewers into the accompanying chunky peanut sauce, complemented by cubes of nasi impit (compressed rice) and cucumber chunks.

Now relocated to a larger premise once occupied by a Middle-Eastern restaurant, Enak KL flaunts a simple, understated and laidback setting. The stone tiled floor sets a rustic stage for old-school fishing traps levelling up as pendant lights and comfy semi-circular banquette seats stowed with plump throw cushions in olive green, lemon yellow and earth tones. 

Prime the tastebuds with refreshing salty-sweet ambarella juice with preserved plums and local crackers to nibble on.

At the behest of our host, Mr Joerg Hontheim, General Manager - F&B Division of Autodome Sdn Bhd, the house speciality of Daging Rusuk (RM61) gets star-billing during our visit. Proof of the daging in this instance is in the eating feasting...we realise the hunk of charcoal-grilled spicy beef rib is indeed swoon-worthy.

Again, the chef's wizardry at suffusing the meat with local spices deserves applause as the tender yet toothsome beef stimulates our palate with its profusion of aromatic spice and charred accents. I suggest savouring the meat sans the spicy, thick soya sauce and air asam jawa (tamarind sauce) dips before you return for repeat helpings, enlivened with sauce.

Local salads known as kerabu is the norm rather than the exception in Malay cuisine especially in the humble kampung (village) where being a locavore is part and parcel of one's lifestyle. These refreshing offerings make full use of seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs available in abundance and you'd find a wide assortment of kerabu at Enak KL.

Top of the healthy options is our favourite Kerabu Jambu Air Ikan Bilis (RM18). An amenable mixture of sliced rose apples with cucumber, lemongrass and shallots dressed in honey, cut chillies and lime juice, the tantalising salad comes with a generous topping of crispy fried tiny silver anchovies for extra crunch.

In contrast, the much touted Kerabu Kerang (RM14) falls short as the few cockles in the beansprouts salad fail to make their presence felt although taste-wise, the inventive dressing of coconut cream, tamarind juice and roasted grated coconut is on-point.

 

Unexpectedly, we find more shine from the rather pale and plain-looking Kerabu Nangka (RM18). Lightly tossed in a smidgen of fresh chilli paste, onion, dried shrimp paste and grated coconut, the combination of young jackfruit and prawns is a masterstroke.

If you prefer a more bankable choice, give the zingy-hot Kerabu Pucuk Paku (RM14) or fiddlehead fern shoots with chicken in kaffir lime juice, bird’s eye chilli and roasted grated coconut a whirl.

For some beefy broth for the soul, try our local Sup Ekor (RM23). With star anise, cardamoms, cloves and bird’s eye chillies imbuing their warm, rustic sweetness to the hearty oxtail soup, the heartwarming serving is bulked up by chunks of tomatoes and carrot.

 

Besides satay, typical grilled fare such as ikan bakar or grilled fish is also popular in Malay cooking. Enak KL offers several scrumptious variations such as Grilled Grouper & King Prawns (seasonal price) that should please both local and foreign diners. Lightly rubbed with local spices, both the fish and crustaceans manage to float our boat; their inherent sweetness on song at first bite.

The famed East Coast speciality of Ayam Percik (RM33) is another go-to grilled offering here. A surefire winsome dish for those partial to poultry once they tuck into the whole butterfly-cut spring chicken slathered with spiced, creamy coconut sauce.

Depending on your tolerance level for chilli hotness, compelling mains like Ikan Asam Pedas (RM33) and Sambal Udang Petai (RM42) are de rigueur samplings in Malay dining. The first consists of seabass and okra cooked in piquant, spicy-sour gravy of dried chillies blended with tamarind, laksa leaves and wild ginger.

While petai or stink beans may be an acquired taste for some diners, their natural health benefits are now so well-known, they are no longer pauper's food. I highly recommend you relish the tiger prawns stir-fried with chilli paste and stink beans with some Nasi Tomato — rice flavoured with tomatoes, ginger, garlic, star anise and cinnamon or Nasi Biryani — rice scented with cumin, garlic and cloves.

 

Load up on some greens to balance your meal. Popular choices include Kangkung Belacan (RM9), water spinach stir-fried with pounded chillies and shrimp paste or Kailan Goreng Ikan Masin (RM9), stir-fried kale with salted fish.

Save tummy space for sweet local treats to wrap up your dining experience. Notable among them are Pisang Goreng (RM14), banana fritters with spicy-sweet thick, dark soya sauce and for the bolder, more adventurous eaters, dive into Serawa Durian (RM18). This lush, unctuous dessert broth consists of durian pulp thickened with fresh coconut milk and palm sugar. At Enak KL, it's complemented by steamed glutinous rice balls and lacy pancakes to capture the dessert's strong, decadent sweetness.                      

Otherwise, safer albeit equally pleasing bets can be found in Air Batu Campur (RM14) — shaved ice confection drizzled with rose syrup, palm sugar syrup and chilled coconut milk over heaps of creamed corn, grass jelly cubes, green rice jelly and red kidney beans or Bubur Pulut Hitam (RM14) — black glutinous rice broth with coconut milk, palm sugar and vanilla ice cream.

For reservations, please call ENAK KL, tel: 03-2782-3807. Address: Feast Village, Starhill Gallery, JW Marriott Kuala Lumpur Hotel, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.

GUARDIANS OF THE CHINA & NANYANG CULINARY GALAXY

A rose by any other name tastes just as nice when you dine at The Oriental Group's yearly culinary showcase. This time, the diversity and abundance of China and the Nanyang (South East Asia) serve as the hot bed of inspiration for Group Executive Chef Justin Hor.

As a passionate advocate for flying the flag high and shining the spotlight on Chinese cuisine, Chef Justin joins forces with Corporate Executive Chef James Ho of Ruyi, Malaysia. The dynamic duo's collab is in line with The Oriental Group’s past initiatives in bringing definitive menus featuring lou si fu or veteran master Chinese chefs and their signature specialities to educate the dining public and gain greater appreciation of Chinese food and cooking. The nostalgic 1960s, past decades of Hong Kong cuisine, and the legacy of Teochew food were some of the chosen themes in the past.

Chef Justin Hor said: “We always strive to stay true to the authencity of Chinese cuisine when curating recipes for the China and Nanyang promotion. It took us six months of brainstorming to rustle up 60-70 dishes before we narrow the selection down for the final menu. We have to ensure the dishes can be replicated by our team at the different restaurants.”

The opening volley by Chef James Ho is already a conversation-stopper. Delicate and thin slices of crunchy radish are fashioned into pretty rose blossoms, to form Pink Roses of Pickled Radish (RM28). Stained pink using boiled red cabbage water, the radish 'petals' taste tantalisingly salty-sweet after being pickled with preserved plums. A pleasing starter to prime the palate for the curtain-raisers of Spicy Garlic Sauce Pork Belly (RM28) and Hunan Waxed Meat & Dried Long Beans (RM38).

 

Streaky belly pork slices drizzled with sesame seed-flecked, garlicky and punchy hot Taiwanese oyster sauce makes it a notable tastebud-teaser. While the latter appears seemingly simple and no frills, we discover the painstaking efforts that goes into preparing the dried long beans before the appetiser hits the table.

Not to be outdone, Chef Justin Hor steps up to the plate with stellar creations such as Jellyfish & Okra in Wasabi-Sesame Sauce (RM28), Cod Fish Rolls (RM28) and Zhenjiang Sweet & Sour Iberico Baby Pork Ribs (RM28).

The mildly hot zestiness with the crunchy-gelatinous soft textural combinations of the first appetiser enhances it irresistible appeal. As for the batons of crispy, lightly-battered cod, we find the buttery shoyu-mirin sauce bestows a delightfully lush finish.

Premium Zhenjiang vinegar is the key condiment to accentuate the tender ribs. It's one of the best sweet and sour sauce rendition I've encountered, leaving the chunks of pork slicked with such bright and flavourful tangy-fruity-savoury nuances that leave us wanting more.

 

Boiled for over 8 hours in a rich, superior stock of pork, old chicken, dried conch and Yunnan ham, the Superior Shark’s Fin Soup with Morel Mushroom (RM118 per person) is a cherished classic updated with the inclusion of morel mushroom. A heartwarming broth that beguiles with its hearty depth of oceanic sweet-savoury flavour dimension.

Expect a frisson of excitement when a salt dome crusted with cinnamon, star anise and cloves is set ablaze; a touch of dramatic flair to herald the serving of Salt Baked 3 Head Abalone with Truffle & Kombu (RM138 each, min 2 pcs per order). 

 

This pricey speciality ticks all the right boxes and then some, mainly due to the inventive East-West truffle and kombu pairing to amplify the delicacy’s unique deep-sea notes.

Hats off to both chefs for raising their game to create the exquisite Roast Suckling Pig with Foie Gras Mousse (RM398). Not content with using French goose liver in its original form, they imbue the foie gras with Sichuan pepper and spring onion before blending it with sake and mirin into a lush, sublime mousse.

Piped onto wafer-thin water crackers, each foie gras rosette is then topped with a piece of crackly suckling pig skin to transform it into a dream epicurean dish fit for a king! Ever mindful of a dish’s flavour balance, the chefs proffer some deep-fried peppery hot, zingy ‘popcorn’ chicken, to help temper the cloying richness.

After his first unforgettable taste of the yellow corvina a decade ago, Chef Justin succeeded in sourcing the fish from China and imported it exclusively for this showcase. According to the chef, Deep-fried Yellow Corvina Shanghainese-style (RM38 each) is the best way to savour its mild, sweet taste.

 

“The fish’s firm, flaky flesh is especially tasty along the spiny bone area where the natural oil is concentrated” said Chef Justin. I find dipping the fish into the vinegar and ginger dip or eating it with marinated cherry tomatoes on the side helps to refresh the palate should the natural oiliness seems a tad overwhelming.

Pine nuts, crabmeat, mushroom and water chestnut dices give the Baked Rice with Cheese & Crispy Rice in Baby Pumpkin (RM28) a myriad of textural dimensions. Sourced from Fujian, China, the baby pumpkins came flash frozen and hallowed out; a whimsical receptacle to hold the delicious baked rice, smothered under creamy cheese topping and crunchy rice krispies.

Dessert is never ho-hum with special servings of Refreshing Rainbow Bird’s Nest (RM28) and Peanut Lava Carrots (RM15 per 3 pcs) to tempt us. Light and refreshing, the Thai lemongrass jelly is enhanced by bits of blueberries, strawberries, jackfruit and basil seeds.

It took Chef Justin two months to reinterpret the usual sesame seed balls into plump ‘carrots’. Naturally coloured with carrot juice, the outer chewy dough is made from a mixture of glutinous rice flour with cornstarch and wheat flour whilst the core yields a molten filling of crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, margarine and butter.

You can relish the gamut of China & Nanyang speciality dishes in a set menu priced at RM2,388 nett for a table of 10 persons. Both Chef Justin Hor and Chef James Ho will appear at a series of grand dinner on the following dates:

9 August      The Hand Room

10 August     Ruyi

13 August     Oriental Treasure

14 August     Noble Banquet

Alternatively, try the a la carte dishes at all participating restaurants under The Oriental Group until 31 August 2018.

For reservations and information, call Emily: 012-392 2082 or Melysa: 012-599 6028. Website: www.orientalrestaurants.com.my