Tasty Curry of Minced Sea Crabs
Wednesday, November 09, 2005
Gourmet Repast at Tamarind Springs
Despite hearing so much good things about Tamarind Springs from friends and acquaintances, the inclination just wasn't there for me to seek out this destination restaurant. As we hurtle towards Ampang/Ulu Klang on the elevated highway, I really have no idea what to expect. Of course the dark storm clouds gathering on the horizon didn't help alleviate my apprehensions.
It was almost twilight when we located Tamarind Springs. Its wooden gated doorway reminded me of a luxury resort entrance - as we stepped over the threshold, it was as if we had entered into a completely different dimension. Surrounded by lush garden greenery and a descending white pebble walkway set with wooden steps and flanked by twinkling tealights on both sides, it was indeed a sight to behold. Romantic, dramatic and mysterious were what came to mind immediately.
As we made our way to the restaurant proper, we passed a large pond filled with water lilies and a tinkling fountain. Above us the trees are aglow from the cocoon-like lanterns suspended in midair. Staff dressed in traditional Indo-Chinese attire welcomed and ushered us to a semi al fresco verandah, overlooking the verdant jungle nearby.
Tamarind Springs was aptly named after the waterway that winds through the restaurant's property. While its sister outlet Tamarind Hill specialises in Thai cuisine, Tamarind Springs serves modern, refined interpretations of Indo-Chinese cuisine by Executive Chef Somkhuan Wandee. This Chiang Mai native who acquired her culinary skills from her mother, is greatly inspired by her grandmother who once had the honour of serving the King Of Siam.
The Indo-Chinese menu comprises a repertoire of Laotian, Vietnamese and Cambodian cuisines. Laotian food share many similarities with Thai cuisine for its robustness and liberal use of spices while Cambodian food is influenced by Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines.
As one of the participanting outlets in the Kuala Lumpur International Gourmet Festival that will be held from November 10 to December 8, 2005, Tamarind Springs has planned a special Festival Menu priced at RM280++ for 2 persons. But do check out their a la carte menu too which is just as exotic and exquisite.
The visual and palate-pleasing Tamarind Springs Platter comprising hor d’oeuvres of omelette rolls, meang kam, steamed mussels dressed and tomato stuffed with minced chicken. Each of these appetizers teases the tastebuds with their varied nuances but the miniature meang kam parcels of crushed peanuts, finely diced shallots and ginger, dry-fried coconut, diced fresh lime and dried shrimp wrapped in betel leaves are particularly outstanding.
Another appetiser of Salmon Sashimi and Water Chestnut with a distinctive Laotian house dressing is equally memorable for its concoction of briny fish sauce, fresh lime juice, grated ginger and bird’s eye chillies giving added zing to the succulent raw salmon. Tempered by the gentle sweetness of sliced water chestnuts, this sublime salad is given a refreshing lift with sprigs of fresh mint.
For main course, the Khmer Sea Crabs and Banana Blossom Curry is a rich, creamy and subtly spicy curry mixed with minced crabmeat and chopped banana blossom. This delectable creation came served in two crab shells accompanied by yellow glutinous rice.
The Barbequed Beef Rolls in Sugarcane exemplifies the rusticity of IndoChinese cuisine perfectly. With a sprinkling of cracked pepper and the sugarcane’s inherent sweetness clinging coyly to the grilled thin beef slices, this simple, homely dish tastes utterly divine.
Even the Broccoli and Tofu (beancurd) in Spicy Almond Sauce exudes its unique Indo-Chinese trait with the inimitable fish sauce making its presence felt in the light, spicy sauce which tops this combo of diced beancurd, broccoli florets, fried cashew nuts and shallots.
Saigon Buo Loy or glutinous balls in ginger syrup concludes this menu on a high note.
Tamarind Springs is definitely one destination restaurant that we reckon will be worthy of your time and money. Dinner is definitely more popular due to the outlet’s ethereal and romantic ambience, so prior reservations are advisable.
TAMARIND SPRINGS (pork free)
Menara Indah Clubhouse
No 1 Jalan Kerja Air Lama
68000 Ampang Selangor
Reservations: 42520836
Business hours –12 noon to 3 pm for lunch; 6 pm to 10.30 pm for dinner. Closed on Mondays.
It was almost twilight when we located Tamarind Springs. Its wooden gated doorway reminded me of a luxury resort entrance - as we stepped over the threshold, it was as if we had entered into a completely different dimension. Surrounded by lush garden greenery and a descending white pebble walkway set with wooden steps and flanked by twinkling tealights on both sides, it was indeed a sight to behold. Romantic, dramatic and mysterious were what came to mind immediately.
As we made our way to the restaurant proper, we passed a large pond filled with water lilies and a tinkling fountain. Above us the trees are aglow from the cocoon-like lanterns suspended in midair. Staff dressed in traditional Indo-Chinese attire welcomed and ushered us to a semi al fresco verandah, overlooking the verdant jungle nearby.
Tamarind Springs was aptly named after the waterway that winds through the restaurant's property. While its sister outlet Tamarind Hill specialises in Thai cuisine, Tamarind Springs serves modern, refined interpretations of Indo-Chinese cuisine by Executive Chef Somkhuan Wandee. This Chiang Mai native who acquired her culinary skills from her mother, is greatly inspired by her grandmother who once had the honour of serving the King Of Siam.
The Indo-Chinese menu comprises a repertoire of Laotian, Vietnamese and Cambodian cuisines. Laotian food share many similarities with Thai cuisine for its robustness and liberal use of spices while Cambodian food is influenced by Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines.
As one of the participanting outlets in the Kuala Lumpur International Gourmet Festival that will be held from November 10 to December 8, 2005, Tamarind Springs has planned a special Festival Menu priced at RM280++ for 2 persons. But do check out their a la carte menu too which is just as exotic and exquisite.
The visual and palate-pleasing Tamarind Springs Platter comprising hor d’oeuvres of omelette rolls, meang kam, steamed mussels dressed and tomato stuffed with minced chicken. Each of these appetizers teases the tastebuds with their varied nuances but the miniature meang kam parcels of crushed peanuts, finely diced shallots and ginger, dry-fried coconut, diced fresh lime and dried shrimp wrapped in betel leaves are particularly outstanding.
Another appetiser of Salmon Sashimi and Water Chestnut with a distinctive Laotian house dressing is equally memorable for its concoction of briny fish sauce, fresh lime juice, grated ginger and bird’s eye chillies giving added zing to the succulent raw salmon. Tempered by the gentle sweetness of sliced water chestnuts, this sublime salad is given a refreshing lift with sprigs of fresh mint.
For main course, the Khmer Sea Crabs and Banana Blossom Curry is a rich, creamy and subtly spicy curry mixed with minced crabmeat and chopped banana blossom. This delectable creation came served in two crab shells accompanied by yellow glutinous rice.
The Barbequed Beef Rolls in Sugarcane exemplifies the rusticity of IndoChinese cuisine perfectly. With a sprinkling of cracked pepper and the sugarcane’s inherent sweetness clinging coyly to the grilled thin beef slices, this simple, homely dish tastes utterly divine.
Even the Broccoli and Tofu (beancurd) in Spicy Almond Sauce exudes its unique Indo-Chinese trait with the inimitable fish sauce making its presence felt in the light, spicy sauce which tops this combo of diced beancurd, broccoli florets, fried cashew nuts and shallots.
Saigon Buo Loy or glutinous balls in ginger syrup concludes this menu on a high note.
Tamarind Springs is definitely one destination restaurant that we reckon will be worthy of your time and money. Dinner is definitely more popular due to the outlet’s ethereal and romantic ambience, so prior reservations are advisable.
TAMARIND SPRINGS (pork free)
Menara Indah Clubhouse
No 1 Jalan Kerja Air Lama
68000 Ampang Selangor
Reservations: 42520836
Business hours –12 noon to 3 pm for lunch; 6 pm to 10.30 pm for dinner. Closed on Mondays.
Friday, October 28, 2005
SIMPLY DELICIOUS!
OK I got a confession to make - my family and I just love going for tea at Delicious at the Ms Read boutique, One Utama.
Long before I was invited for the latest review, we just love their chocolate cake, angel hair pasta and coffees. So how did their latest dinner menu rate? Well, I'm biased so I'd say its 89% good!
Modelled after trendy bistros overseas (especially Oz we reckon), Delicious does not confine itself to any particular cuisine.
Owner, Benjamin Yong explained: “Our dishes are mainly inspired by our travels abroad and ideas from our chefs. When a menu change is imminent, we will sit down and brainstorm over what’s feasible. But customers can always be assured we will focus on our main philosophy of serving good, reasonably priced dishes with prompt, friendly service.”
Available from 6 pm onwards, the new dinner menu comprises four entrées, four mains and four desserts, with enough variety to please the different generations in any Malaysian family.
The prawn bisque (RM11.90), a light creamy soup with diced prawn and coriander is a good example. The soup’s earthy and rustic nuances will easily appeal to the tastebuds of both young and old. In fact, we thought it comparable to a rich lobster bisque.
Another guaranteed crowd pleaser is the salt and pepper squid (RM13.90). Tossed in five-spice seasoning before they are lightly pan-fried, the calamari rings are tasty bites that went perfectly with its tangy and mildly spicy Thai-style chilli dip that was separately served on the side.
Weight-watchers will find the miso tofu salad (RM13.90) a godsend. The simple, wholesome and tasty combination of butter lettuce, cold beancurd dices, wakame (Japanese seaweed), grated radish and sesame seeds tossed in a piquant vinaigrette of shoyu and wasabi-based dressing is just ingenius!
Somehow the slow-cooked lamb shank ravioli (RM16.90) failed to excite although the gently poached hand-made ravioli were stuffed with tender pieces of braised lamb shank. But I do like the arugula or rocket salad drizzled with a tangy balsamic reduction atop this ensemble.
The main course of grilled miso cod (RM29.90) on a bed of marinated cold soba and long strips of crunchy cucumber deserves top billing. Imagine the soft, buttery texture of grilled cod imbued with the delicate nuance of Japanese bean paste melding perfectly with the crisp, clear flavours of green tea soba noodles.
I love the pared-down presentation of its roasted spring chicken (RM28.90), akin to a miniature Christmas turkey. It was really tender and juicy, with enticing scents of lemon, garlic and rosemary. A mound of fragrant olive rice and grilled zucchini rounded off this delectable creation nicely.
Local flavours abound in the ‘ikan masak assam pedas’ (RM28.90), albeit with a contemporary twist. Still you’d be hard-pressed to fault the pan-fried boneless sea bass fillet with its tantalizingly spicy sauce of ground chillies, tamarind and finely sliced bunga kantan or ginger flower. Served with steamed white rice, raw ulam vegetables of cucumber, blanched long beans and okra, and traditional sambal belacan, this delightful dish will satisfy those who prefer more Malaysianised dishes.
I am not big on 'pulut hitam' but their sticky black glutinous rice (RM9.90) comes with ‘red ruby’ dices (like 'tab thim krop') crowned with a scoop of homemade coconut ice cream. Mix them up and you’d get an inherently smooth and creamy sweet porridge.
Equally superb is the ‘chendolicious’ (RM9.90) – a glass of fat, green ‘chendol’ strands and melted gula melaka (palm sugar) topped with coconut ice cream.
But my vote goes to the pear and cardamom pudding (RM11.90) - a lovely dense cake studded with poppy seeds and imbued with the delicate aroma of cardamoms. With a whole poached pear in it and some pouring cream on top, this dessert is truly to die for!
Lastly, it will take much will power not to succumb to the balsamico strawberries (RM9.90), a sublime dessert of hulled strawberries and vanilla ice cream drizzled with balsamic reduction.
What else can I say? Mmm...sedappppp! (Delicious!)
DELICIOUS BY MS READ (pork-free)
G1A Ground Floor
Bangsar Village
Bangsar
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 22881770
F315 First Floor
One Utama Phase 2
Bandar Utama
Petaling Jaya
Reservations: 77241086
Long before I was invited for the latest review, we just love their chocolate cake, angel hair pasta and coffees. So how did their latest dinner menu rate? Well, I'm biased so I'd say its 89% good!
Modelled after trendy bistros overseas (especially Oz we reckon), Delicious does not confine itself to any particular cuisine.
Owner, Benjamin Yong explained: “Our dishes are mainly inspired by our travels abroad and ideas from our chefs. When a menu change is imminent, we will sit down and brainstorm over what’s feasible. But customers can always be assured we will focus on our main philosophy of serving good, reasonably priced dishes with prompt, friendly service.”
Available from 6 pm onwards, the new dinner menu comprises four entrées, four mains and four desserts, with enough variety to please the different generations in any Malaysian family.
The prawn bisque (RM11.90), a light creamy soup with diced prawn and coriander is a good example. The soup’s earthy and rustic nuances will easily appeal to the tastebuds of both young and old. In fact, we thought it comparable to a rich lobster bisque.
Another guaranteed crowd pleaser is the salt and pepper squid (RM13.90). Tossed in five-spice seasoning before they are lightly pan-fried, the calamari rings are tasty bites that went perfectly with its tangy and mildly spicy Thai-style chilli dip that was separately served on the side.
Weight-watchers will find the miso tofu salad (RM13.90) a godsend. The simple, wholesome and tasty combination of butter lettuce, cold beancurd dices, wakame (Japanese seaweed), grated radish and sesame seeds tossed in a piquant vinaigrette of shoyu and wasabi-based dressing is just ingenius!
Somehow the slow-cooked lamb shank ravioli (RM16.90) failed to excite although the gently poached hand-made ravioli were stuffed with tender pieces of braised lamb shank. But I do like the arugula or rocket salad drizzled with a tangy balsamic reduction atop this ensemble.
The main course of grilled miso cod (RM29.90) on a bed of marinated cold soba and long strips of crunchy cucumber deserves top billing. Imagine the soft, buttery texture of grilled cod imbued with the delicate nuance of Japanese bean paste melding perfectly with the crisp, clear flavours of green tea soba noodles.
I love the pared-down presentation of its roasted spring chicken (RM28.90), akin to a miniature Christmas turkey. It was really tender and juicy, with enticing scents of lemon, garlic and rosemary. A mound of fragrant olive rice and grilled zucchini rounded off this delectable creation nicely.
Local flavours abound in the ‘ikan masak assam pedas’ (RM28.90), albeit with a contemporary twist. Still you’d be hard-pressed to fault the pan-fried boneless sea bass fillet with its tantalizingly spicy sauce of ground chillies, tamarind and finely sliced bunga kantan or ginger flower. Served with steamed white rice, raw ulam vegetables of cucumber, blanched long beans and okra, and traditional sambal belacan, this delightful dish will satisfy those who prefer more Malaysianised dishes.
I am not big on 'pulut hitam' but their sticky black glutinous rice (RM9.90) comes with ‘red ruby’ dices (like 'tab thim krop') crowned with a scoop of homemade coconut ice cream. Mix them up and you’d get an inherently smooth and creamy sweet porridge.
Equally superb is the ‘chendolicious’ (RM9.90) – a glass of fat, green ‘chendol’ strands and melted gula melaka (palm sugar) topped with coconut ice cream.
But my vote goes to the pear and cardamom pudding (RM11.90) - a lovely dense cake studded with poppy seeds and imbued with the delicate aroma of cardamoms. With a whole poached pear in it and some pouring cream on top, this dessert is truly to die for!
Lastly, it will take much will power not to succumb to the balsamico strawberries (RM9.90), a sublime dessert of hulled strawberries and vanilla ice cream drizzled with balsamic reduction.
What else can I say? Mmm...sedappppp! (Delicious!)
DELICIOUS BY MS READ (pork-free)
G1A Ground Floor
Bangsar Village
Bangsar
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 22881770
F315 First Floor
One Utama Phase 2
Bandar Utama
Petaling Jaya
Reservations: 77241086
Tuesday, October 18, 2005
JAPANESE BY DESIGN?
Anything new is bound to have advocates and detractors. So it is with chefs and restaurants that dare venture beyond the norm. Even world renowned and highly acclaimed eateries like Nobu and The Fat Duck have their fair share of accolades and criticisms.
Still it won't stop gourmands like Larry Gan from pushing the envelope with his daring restaurant ventures. After opening the trendy 'U' Japanese eatery in Bangsar, Uzen is the evolution of its sister outlet's success.
For Uzen is not your run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurant so be prepared for surprising twists when you dine there.
An ardent globe trotter, Gan and his wife, Caroline personally worked on Uzen’s interior design and menu concepts that remind them of their many overseas forays.
“From our travels, we discover that there is a vacuum in Kuala Lumpur for more sophisticated restaurants that will attract cosmopolitan travelers and local gourmands,” said Gan. “Uzen is modeled after trendy, popular eateries in London, New York and Sydney such as Nobu and The Fat Duck.”
There is no tatami mat in sight nor any kimono clad service staff. Instead, Uzen looks more like an ultra-cool, upmarket jazz club. The snazzy décor features raw, milled steel walls, custom-made furniture in futuristic designs, shiny, multi-layered tiled walls, and old railway sleeper tracks refurbished into sturdy dining tables. The lamp shapes are hanging works of art – some are wrought from traditional fishing baskets and bamboo fish traps banded with milled steel bands whilst others are fashioned into circular shades reminiscent of flirty frou frou skirts using squares of steel netting threaded and bound together. Even its tableware comprises specially commissioned clay pieces by Penang-based artist, Yee Kwai Hoong. The talented lass also worked closely with the Gans to execute the outlet’s edgy interior design.
Its extensive menu is rather ambitious given that Uzen can only seat 70 persons. Many are classical Japanese delights with an updated twist or given fresh interpretations, inspired by innovative outlets such as Nobu and Shunju.
Should you decide to dispense with the menu, leave it to the Uzen chefs to surprise you with their creations for the day. The omakase set (chef’s creations) priced between RM115 and RM175 per person gives the outlet chefs opportunity to express and surprise you with their creativity, allowing for frequent changes to the set menu using fresh, seasonal produce. “The element of surprise is always there so you can be assured of new dishes all the time,” said Gan.
Our omakase set commenced with seafood salad of sliced prawn and octopus layered between slices of lotus root, red and green peppers, and carrot. The crunchy root vegetables certainly emphasized the seafood’s freshness and delicate flavours. A simple dressing of apple vinaigrette rendered the whole ensemble refreshingly crisp and tangy.
This was followed by gratin of oysters in an orange cup with gelatine and deep-fried shredded gobo (burdock root). A sublime warm appetizer that would be remembered for its rich, creamy and indulgent nuances after the cold dish served earlier.
The fresh sashimi – slices of raw shake (salmon), kampachi (amberjack) and shiro maguro (butterfish) – came nicely presented in a hollowed ice bowl. We had a hard time deciding which of these splendid fishes taste better.
To cleanse the palate, we sipped on melon cocktail before partaking two other subsequent chef’s creations. The first comprised a piece of crisp Belgian endive filled with strips of raw tuna, salmon, squid and avocado in a mayonnaise and wasabi dressing and topped with a dollop of lumpfish roe. We like the clever interplay of flavours and textures.
Even though I found the mashed okra with salmon roe atop a slice of tomato and gelatine a little too slimy and mushy, this creation was unconventional for its textural and taste contrasts.
Our main course of gindara teriyaki (RM45++) with creamy mashed potato fared better. Basted with just a hint of teriyaki sauce to enhance the fish’s natural sweetness, the buttery cod was exquisite.
The teppanyaki ribeye (RM42++) is simplicity at its best. Teppan-fried with butter and a dash of salt, pepper, soya and minced garlic, we enjoyed every tender, succulent mouthful. Discerning diners can request for wagyu or Kobe beef (charged at prevailing market price).
Dessert ranges from macha or green tea ice cream with red bean (RM12++), dorayaki or Japanese pancake with red bean filling (RM12++) or Uzen’s cake of the day (RM10++). We had a most decadent black and white chocolate cake on the night we were there, so check on what is available for the day.
Since opening, this chic outlet has quietly drawn many a corporate captain and the city’s well-heeled high society through its doors. Uzen may just be paving the way for the next generation of edgy ‘ethnic’ restaurants to open in Kuala Lumpur.
UZEN (pork-free)
1st Floor Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2032 1388
Still it won't stop gourmands like Larry Gan from pushing the envelope with his daring restaurant ventures. After opening the trendy 'U' Japanese eatery in Bangsar, Uzen is the evolution of its sister outlet's success.
For Uzen is not your run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurant so be prepared for surprising twists when you dine there.
An ardent globe trotter, Gan and his wife, Caroline personally worked on Uzen’s interior design and menu concepts that remind them of their many overseas forays.
“From our travels, we discover that there is a vacuum in Kuala Lumpur for more sophisticated restaurants that will attract cosmopolitan travelers and local gourmands,” said Gan. “Uzen is modeled after trendy, popular eateries in London, New York and Sydney such as Nobu and The Fat Duck.”
There is no tatami mat in sight nor any kimono clad service staff. Instead, Uzen looks more like an ultra-cool, upmarket jazz club. The snazzy décor features raw, milled steel walls, custom-made furniture in futuristic designs, shiny, multi-layered tiled walls, and old railway sleeper tracks refurbished into sturdy dining tables. The lamp shapes are hanging works of art – some are wrought from traditional fishing baskets and bamboo fish traps banded with milled steel bands whilst others are fashioned into circular shades reminiscent of flirty frou frou skirts using squares of steel netting threaded and bound together. Even its tableware comprises specially commissioned clay pieces by Penang-based artist, Yee Kwai Hoong. The talented lass also worked closely with the Gans to execute the outlet’s edgy interior design.
Its extensive menu is rather ambitious given that Uzen can only seat 70 persons. Many are classical Japanese delights with an updated twist or given fresh interpretations, inspired by innovative outlets such as Nobu and Shunju.
Should you decide to dispense with the menu, leave it to the Uzen chefs to surprise you with their creations for the day. The omakase set (chef’s creations) priced between RM115 and RM175 per person gives the outlet chefs opportunity to express and surprise you with their creativity, allowing for frequent changes to the set menu using fresh, seasonal produce. “The element of surprise is always there so you can be assured of new dishes all the time,” said Gan.
Our omakase set commenced with seafood salad of sliced prawn and octopus layered between slices of lotus root, red and green peppers, and carrot. The crunchy root vegetables certainly emphasized the seafood’s freshness and delicate flavours. A simple dressing of apple vinaigrette rendered the whole ensemble refreshingly crisp and tangy.
This was followed by gratin of oysters in an orange cup with gelatine and deep-fried shredded gobo (burdock root). A sublime warm appetizer that would be remembered for its rich, creamy and indulgent nuances after the cold dish served earlier.
The fresh sashimi – slices of raw shake (salmon), kampachi (amberjack) and shiro maguro (butterfish) – came nicely presented in a hollowed ice bowl. We had a hard time deciding which of these splendid fishes taste better.
To cleanse the palate, we sipped on melon cocktail before partaking two other subsequent chef’s creations. The first comprised a piece of crisp Belgian endive filled with strips of raw tuna, salmon, squid and avocado in a mayonnaise and wasabi dressing and topped with a dollop of lumpfish roe. We like the clever interplay of flavours and textures.
Even though I found the mashed okra with salmon roe atop a slice of tomato and gelatine a little too slimy and mushy, this creation was unconventional for its textural and taste contrasts.
Our main course of gindara teriyaki (RM45++) with creamy mashed potato fared better. Basted with just a hint of teriyaki sauce to enhance the fish’s natural sweetness, the buttery cod was exquisite.
The teppanyaki ribeye (RM42++) is simplicity at its best. Teppan-fried with butter and a dash of salt, pepper, soya and minced garlic, we enjoyed every tender, succulent mouthful. Discerning diners can request for wagyu or Kobe beef (charged at prevailing market price).
Dessert ranges from macha or green tea ice cream with red bean (RM12++), dorayaki or Japanese pancake with red bean filling (RM12++) or Uzen’s cake of the day (RM10++). We had a most decadent black and white chocolate cake on the night we were there, so check on what is available for the day.
Since opening, this chic outlet has quietly drawn many a corporate captain and the city’s well-heeled high society through its doors. Uzen may just be paving the way for the next generation of edgy ‘ethnic’ restaurants to open in Kuala Lumpur.
UZEN (pork-free)
1st Floor Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2032 1388
Thursday, October 13, 2005
FLAVOURS FROM THE SILK ROAD
Sweet surrender - Bukhara's Grand Dessert Platter
Did you know the Bukhara restaurant at Suria KLCC was actually opened to showcase the inter-cultural culinary heritage of the Silk Road pursuant to our former Prime Minister, Tun Mahathir Mohamad’s visit to the fabled city of Bukhara in Uzbekistan?
That's right. Bukhara is not a Middle-Eastern restaurant but was named after one of the oldest Uzbek cities of the same name. Famed for its historical and architectural splendours, Bukhara is set on the great caravan crossroads, near the Taklamakan Desert where the Silk Road spans across from China to the Western World.
Consequently, the Bukhara restaurant simply encapsulates a varied selection of Central Asian specialties in its menu. Meaning diners will have an insight into this criss-crossing of Chinese, Indian, Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern cultures and cuisines due to the bustling spice and silk trade along the dense network of large cities and smaller towns, starting from Xian to Istanbul from the second to fifteenth century.
What the Bukhara chefs have done is refined and modernised the visual presentation of these rustic and unsophisticated dishes while retaining the original flavours.
Our evening started off well with Taklamakan Chill (RM9.80++), an invigorating concoction of honey, ginger ale, lemon slices and mint and Shalala Sunrise (RM9.80++), a zesty blend of pineapple, orange and lemon juices.
The Lamb Shurva (RM14++), hearty lamb stew thickened with spiced lentils is a flavourful broth that must be eaten with Bukhara’s assorted homemade breads.
We had a fair idea of just how much the Middle-Eastern, Indian and Mediterranean influences have left their mark on Central Asian cuisine with the Paneer Falafel (RM16++) and Oyster Fritters (RM28++). Deliciously crisp on the outside and oozing with melted cottage cheese inside, the fried chickpea and sesame seed croquettes are representative of the first two facets whilst the fried oysters in crisp batter are clearly a Mediterranean inspiration.
Other noteworthy appetizers include Honey Date Fritters (RM16++), Dukka Prawns (RM20++), deep-fried prawns coated with Middle-Eastern spices and Bukhara Meze (RM22++), a platter of ‘hummus’ (chickpea purée), pickled dills, dates, fried cornmeal, mashed tuna, ‘falafel’ (fried chickpea balls) and ‘dolmas’(rolled up grape leaves with spiced rice and minced meat filling).
A firm favourite with our former premier, the Barbecued Chicken with Sumak (RM32++) is reputedly one of Bukhara’s best-selling dishes. No prizes for guessing why as a whole succulent chicken leg has been marinated with a mixture of aromatic Middle Eastern spices prior to it being grilled to perfection. We thoroughly relished it with the accopanying piquant sauce that was mildly sweet and fruity.
Lamb is popular in Central Asia so it is only natural specialities such as Moussaka (baked minced lamb with layers of eggplant and yoghurt RM30++), Flame-Grilled Marinated Lamb Rack (RM45++) and Lamb Kebab (RM36++) can be found in the menu. We daresay the skewered lamb with Mediterranean-style vegetables and a citrusy barbecue sauce was truly sublime as the tender meat was richly imbued with a spiced marinade.
The Bukhara Pollo (RM25++) and Hyderabadi Biryani (RM25++) are two rice dishes evocative of the Silk Route's famous spice trade. Cooked in a pot sealed with a layer of pastry dough on top, the former was scrumptious as all the wonderful flavours of the various ingredients – marinated chicken pieces, raisins, cashew nuts, cloves and hard-boiled egg -- were fully absorbed by the highland rice. If you choose to have the latter, you’d find the lamb, cardamoms and a whole green chilli render it stronger and spicier in flavour.
To conclude, sweet-toothed diners can opt for the Grand Selection (RM28++) featuring an assortment of Bukhara’s desserts in miniature portions. It constitutes warm semolina cake, lemon tart, cardamom cream, ‘baklava’ (caramelized almonds, pistachios and walnut in a fillo purse), chocolate brownie and ‘basboosah’ (coconut pastry with hints of rose water, cinnamon, walnuts, and sugar syrup).
We suspect the only stumbling block to the outlet’s even greater success is its slightly upmarket and elegant ambience which can be intimidating. Once they overcome the initial fear of stepping in, many will find the outlet is pretty inviting with its desert sand dunes patterned walls, coupled with natural wood and glass accents. Décor is kept to a minimum with some Islamic calligraphy artworks and pottery on display.
Diners won’t have any problems getting the wait staff’s attention as each table is equipped with a small, wireless gadget that summons designated service personnel to the customers’ tables for placement of orders, bill settlement or any form of assistance during their meals.
So if you have yet to discover what Bukhara has to offer, now is a good time as any to go for a Silk Road experience.
BUKHARA (halal)
Lot 137 1st Floor
Suria KLCC
Kuala Lumpur City Centre
50088 Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2168 8221
Opening hours – 11 am to 11 pm daily
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
TO REVIVE JADED PALATES
It is the most classic example of selling ice to Eskimos! That is the impression I have of Singaporean-owned Crystal Jade group when I discovered they succeeded in enticing Shanghainese to partake their own delicacies in its modern, quick-service outlets found in several Chinese cities.
Hoping to repeat similar success with its newly opened Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Loong Pao outlet at the annex block of Lot 10, Crystal Jade's biggest lures are its ‘la mian’ (hand-pulled noodles) and ‘xiao loong pao’ (little dragon dumplings).
With an open kitchen concept that accords diners their bustling dim sum and noodle-making theatrics, the new Crystal Jade outlet's meandering layout offers various seating options – an outdoor patio for smokers, simple and fuss-free table seating upfront for customers who want a quick bite, and a semi-enclosed dining section further back for bigger groups and private entertaining.
The menu with colour photographs serves as a helpful guide on what are the dishes available here. An order form is provided so that diners can personally indicate which are the dishes they wish to order.
Happily, we found the dainty ‘xiao loong pao’ (RM7 per order) passed muster as the dainty pork-filled dumplings were just superb with its sweet, soupy stock. Although not as good as the ones we had at Din Tai Fung in Singapore, they certainly can rival those we ate in Shanghai. Just remember to pick them up carefully with your chopsticks and try not to pierce the skin or else you’d lose the best part of these delicious morsels – the flavourful superior stock in it. The only setback is the dumpling skin was a little thick but apparently the outlet chefs had to make it so after numerous customer complaints about the skin breaking apart too easily.
It is always amazing to see a skillful ‘la mian’ chef hand-pull a chunk of floury dough into delicious threads of chewy noodles. His effortless demonstration belies the years of practice at getting this art of noodle-making just right. The fine noodles taste scrumptious too, complemented by deep-fried golden-brown meaty pork ribs (RM12).
Less successful was the ‘la mian’ topped with minced meat and chopped mushroom in spicy sauce (RM10). While the sweet-spicy sauce was tantalizing enough, I wish it was less starchy with more minced meat in it. The ‘la mian’ with minced pork and vegetable wontons (RM12) was equally disappointing as the dish was rather bland and we had to perk things up with the ubiquitous chilli oil and vinegar.
One of the more unusual and noteworthy dishes in the menu is sautéed egg white with fish meat (RM26). I recall a Shanghainese chef told me this legendary dish was created to satiate the Chinese emperor’s craving for crabs. What's an imperial cook to do but to put ingenuity to the test by whipping up a mixture of fluffy egg whites and white fish flakes. Needless to say this delicious mock crabmeat dish succeeded in appeasing the emperor. You’d wax lyrical over Crystal Jade’s version too - with a whole egg yolk mixed into the sautéed egg white and fish meat, the creation was velvety smooth.
For a ‘do it yourself’ treat, the ham and crispy dried beancurd skin (RM24) is a memorable delight where you sandwich slices of briny and smoky Yunnan ham in red chilli oil and deep-fried ‘foo chook’ (beancurd skin) in between cotton-soft thin slices of ‘man tou’ bread.
We also love the crispy eel (RM13). Cut into finger-thick slices and deep-fried until crispy, the eel was coated with a sweetish sauce and topped with some shredded ginger.
A slightly more unusual Shanghainese specialty is deep-fried rice crackers with sautéed minced pork (RM16), a dish that pairs crunchy cakes of puffed rice with a robust, chunky sauce of pork mince, mushroom and beancurd dices.
Nothing beats a refreshing ‘tong shui’ (sweet broth) such as sweetened dried longan with snow fungus and wolfberries (RM5) to wash down the hearty fare you had just eaten. Other types of sweet broth served include glutinous dumpling in sweet ginger soup (RM5.50), glutinous balls with sweet wine syrup (RM5.50), almond beancurd with longans (RM6) and mango pudding (RM6).
Overall, Crystal Jade is a good and affordable place to discover the many culinary delights of cosmopolitan Shanghai. Service is quick and efficient, with the wait staff more than willing to guide you on what to order.
CRYSTAL JADE LA MIAN XIAO LONG BAO (non halal)
R2 Annexe Block
Lot 10 Shopping Centre
50 Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2148 2338
Business hours – 11 am to 10 pm daily
Hoping to repeat similar success with its newly opened Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Loong Pao outlet at the annex block of Lot 10, Crystal Jade's biggest lures are its ‘la mian’ (hand-pulled noodles) and ‘xiao loong pao’ (little dragon dumplings).
With an open kitchen concept that accords diners their bustling dim sum and noodle-making theatrics, the new Crystal Jade outlet's meandering layout offers various seating options – an outdoor patio for smokers, simple and fuss-free table seating upfront for customers who want a quick bite, and a semi-enclosed dining section further back for bigger groups and private entertaining.
The menu with colour photographs serves as a helpful guide on what are the dishes available here. An order form is provided so that diners can personally indicate which are the dishes they wish to order.
Happily, we found the dainty ‘xiao loong pao’ (RM7 per order) passed muster as the dainty pork-filled dumplings were just superb with its sweet, soupy stock. Although not as good as the ones we had at Din Tai Fung in Singapore, they certainly can rival those we ate in Shanghai. Just remember to pick them up carefully with your chopsticks and try not to pierce the skin or else you’d lose the best part of these delicious morsels – the flavourful superior stock in it. The only setback is the dumpling skin was a little thick but apparently the outlet chefs had to make it so after numerous customer complaints about the skin breaking apart too easily.
It is always amazing to see a skillful ‘la mian’ chef hand-pull a chunk of floury dough into delicious threads of chewy noodles. His effortless demonstration belies the years of practice at getting this art of noodle-making just right. The fine noodles taste scrumptious too, complemented by deep-fried golden-brown meaty pork ribs (RM12).
Less successful was the ‘la mian’ topped with minced meat and chopped mushroom in spicy sauce (RM10). While the sweet-spicy sauce was tantalizing enough, I wish it was less starchy with more minced meat in it. The ‘la mian’ with minced pork and vegetable wontons (RM12) was equally disappointing as the dish was rather bland and we had to perk things up with the ubiquitous chilli oil and vinegar.
One of the more unusual and noteworthy dishes in the menu is sautéed egg white with fish meat (RM26). I recall a Shanghainese chef told me this legendary dish was created to satiate the Chinese emperor’s craving for crabs. What's an imperial cook to do but to put ingenuity to the test by whipping up a mixture of fluffy egg whites and white fish flakes. Needless to say this delicious mock crabmeat dish succeeded in appeasing the emperor. You’d wax lyrical over Crystal Jade’s version too - with a whole egg yolk mixed into the sautéed egg white and fish meat, the creation was velvety smooth.
For a ‘do it yourself’ treat, the ham and crispy dried beancurd skin (RM24) is a memorable delight where you sandwich slices of briny and smoky Yunnan ham in red chilli oil and deep-fried ‘foo chook’ (beancurd skin) in between cotton-soft thin slices of ‘man tou’ bread.
We also love the crispy eel (RM13). Cut into finger-thick slices and deep-fried until crispy, the eel was coated with a sweetish sauce and topped with some shredded ginger.
A slightly more unusual Shanghainese specialty is deep-fried rice crackers with sautéed minced pork (RM16), a dish that pairs crunchy cakes of puffed rice with a robust, chunky sauce of pork mince, mushroom and beancurd dices.
Nothing beats a refreshing ‘tong shui’ (sweet broth) such as sweetened dried longan with snow fungus and wolfberries (RM5) to wash down the hearty fare you had just eaten. Other types of sweet broth served include glutinous dumpling in sweet ginger soup (RM5.50), glutinous balls with sweet wine syrup (RM5.50), almond beancurd with longans (RM6) and mango pudding (RM6).
Overall, Crystal Jade is a good and affordable place to discover the many culinary delights of cosmopolitan Shanghai. Service is quick and efficient, with the wait staff more than willing to guide you on what to order.
CRYSTAL JADE LA MIAN XIAO LONG BAO (non halal)
R2 Annexe Block
Lot 10 Shopping Centre
50 Jalan Sultan Ismail
50250 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 2148 2338
Business hours – 11 am to 10 pm daily
Tuesday, September 13, 2005
DELI DELIGHTS AT STAN'S
Tired of the local ‘kopi tiam’ for breakfast on weekends? Fancy tea and scones without paying a bomb? Head over Stan’s at One Bangsar.You can have your Nasi Lemak Kukus (RM25) with the whole works – ‘sambal sotong’, ‘minang’ chicken and ‘tok’ beef for brunch. The huge portion of fragrant steamed Bario rice is richly flavoured with coconut milk and herbs and accompaniments of dry-fried peanuts, ‘ikan bilis’ (anchovies), cucumber slices and a hard-boiled egg. The ‘sambal’ is a little sweet, just the way how a good nasi lemak ‘sambal’ should be while the brown squid makes nice chewy mouthfuls. I did not quite take to the tender beef shin in an aromatic and mildly spicy gravy though and prefer the ‘minang’ chicken with its tongue-searing spiciness.
We can also vouch for the chicken broth noodles (RM19) – my kid quaffed the tasty chicken broth and ate most of the noodles laden with sliced shiitake and chicken without any fuss.
Breakfast at Stan’s Deli is served from 9.30 am to 11.30 am daily. For a late lunch or afternoon tea, you can expect wraps, salads, rice, light bites and scrumptious sweets – a concise menu of Stan’s best offerings that are both hearty and satisfying.
Stan’s Deli is really the ‘al fresco’ or outdoor section of the restaurant owned and managed by Stephanie Saw. Here the casual, idyllic ambience overlooks out onto a lush green garden setting and tinkling water features which is perfect to lounge over a leisurely breakfast or weekend brunch, enjoy afternoon tête-à -tête with bosom buddies and unwind after work over drinks with colleagues.
Saw explained that Stan’s main menu showcases her own interpretations of Malay and Asian recipes. “I tend to experiment with various ingredients, textures and flavours of traditional recipes and tweak them a little. I am targeting diners that are won’t mind sampling familiar dishes with a slight twist from the ubiquitous version. It is meant to intrigue them and give the dishes my own distinctive touch.”
The three salads we sampled bore testimony to her experimental touches – crabmeat with banana flower salad (RM18), tenderloin and mint salad (RM33), and prawn and mango (RM22).
Despite its unusual dressing of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, the salad of crabmeat, chopped banana flower, ‘daikon’ (Japanese radish), carrots and Spanish onions seemed rather heavy and uninspiring on the tastebuds. The interplay of flavours and textures also lacked punch.
The tenderloin salad fared slightly better with large, thin slices of seared tenderloin dressed in a piquant concoction of chopped galangal, mint, red chillies, shallots and lime juice and served on a bed of fresh romaine lettuce.
Stan’s prawn and mango salad is yet another departure from the usual ‘kerabu’-style salad. This creation consists of large, fresh prawns and shredded young mango tossed in a tangy aioli (a sauce made from garlic, egg and lemon juice). Thankfully the aioli dressing is light and zesty enough to pull the whole ensemble together.
For vegetarians, the assam pedas tofu mushroom noodles (RM16) will leave you replete. The robust dish of meehoon in mouth-watering sour and spicy gravy comes with soft Japanese tofu slices, shiitake and enoki mushrooms, pineapple slices and tomato wedges.
Rice lovers will relish the bario rice sets (RM23-RM26). A complete one-dish, well-balanced meal in itself, you can tuck into steamed bario rice with your choice of fiery ‘minang ‘chicken, ‘tok’ beef /chicken, or beef stew accompanied by ‘lengkuas’ squid (simmered in light coconut gravy flavoured with shallots, chilli, ginger and galangal), cucumber and long beans ‘ulam’.
If you like ‘roti jala’, then don’t miss sampling these lace pancakes with a choice of ‘minang’ chicken or lamb ‘maktom’ (RM10-RM12). It’s pure comfort food at its best! For something light, try the savoury prawn ‘botok’ (minced shrimp steamed in a spiced coconut mousse, RM12).
What’s afternoon tea without scones, profiteroles and cakes? Try the chocolate durian cake (RM12), a sinfully rich pairing that you either love or loathe. Personally I am not too enamoured although these two happen to be my favourite indulgences. Still, Saw told us lots of her customers can’t get enough of this decadent confection.
The banana cream pie (RM9) holds more appeal to me with the mini custard-filled shortcrust pastry shell brimming with slightly caramelized banana slices on top. Equally scrumptious was the dense butter marmalade cake with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream (RM9). I can't wait to return and have the scones, cream and durian profiteroles, pineapple upside down cake, carrot walnut and chocolate fudge cake.
Local sweets such as ‘seri muka pulut hitam’ (RM7) or ‘bingka labu’ (RM7) will go down well with ‘tong shui’ (sweet dessert broth) or sweet ‘bubur’– just ask the staff what is available for the day.
Stan’s Assam&Garam which is the actual restaurant premises has a more upmarket and contemporary ambience that incorporates dark wood paneling and raw, unfinished concrete flooring. The walls are adorned with framed ethnic ‘pelikat’ fabrics and intricate pieces of wood carvings while plush Afghan carpets, trendy wood veneer lampshades and a soothing water feature in one corner complete the entire setting.
Service can be a little erratic at times, with Saw having to keep an eagle eye on overall proceedings. The staff is generally friendly and helpful but occasionally, diners may have to be patient and bear with their inadequate grasp of English.
The restaurant itself seats about 70 persons but combine with the deli area, the capacity goes up to about 120. Group bookings for private events are accepted with prior notice.
You may have to splurge just a bit more when dining at Stan’s but be assured the quality of ingredients and food portions will more than make up for it.
STAN’S DELI&BAR
STAN’S ASSAM&GARAM (pork-free)
One Bangsar
Jalan Ara
Bangsar
Kuala Lumpur
Tel:22826286
Business hours- Daily Breakfast 9.30 am to 11.30 am (deli only)
Lunch 12.00 noon to 2.30 pm (late lunch available at deli)
Tea 3.30 pm to 6.00 pm (deli only)
Dinner 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm
Wednesday, September 07, 2005
MMM...MOONCAKES!
Nutty delight...you can't go anymore traditional than this!
Chocolate in your mooncake anyone?
Mooncakes today have come a long way from its earliest version of baked pastries filled with plain sweet lotus paste. In recent years, the local mooncake market has been so lucrative that commercial bakeries and confectioneries outdo each other annually to grab a bigger slice of the market. So much so that sometimes the newer mooncake creations seem like a culinary experiment that has gone totally awry. A case of too many chefs spoiling the cake?
Here's a peep of the good and unusual ones available.
DYNASTY OF NEW FLAVOURS
Renaissance KL boasts of mooncakes with new, unusual fillings alongside the more classical variants. The innovative fillings incorporate fruity flavours such as durian, mango or orange paste, pandan lotus paste and chopped dried persimmon encased by snow skin or the chilled, unbaked skin. These are very light on the palate, with refreshing fruity-citrusy nuances coming through clearly.
There is also snow skin mooncake with green tea and walnut paste which strikes a chord with us for its mildly bitter aftertaste. Special mention must be made of the assorted baked nuts with ham mooncakes – the nutty filling is imbued with the delicate fragrance and appetizing tanginess of ‘san kat’ (wild lime) and ‘kat peng’ (candied lime pieces) in addition to the sublime flavour of Yunnan ham.
Dynasty's classic baked mooncakes are filled with either white lotus seed or pandan lotus seed paste that comes with single or double salted egg yolks. Prices range between RM7.00 and RM14.00 per piece. Specially designed elongated wooden gift boxes bearing the outlet’s Chinese fairy motif are available.
DYNASTY CHINESE RESTAURANT (non-halal)
Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel
Corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail & Jalan Ampang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel - 2771 6773
TEA AND FLORAL INFUSIONS
Dim sum chef Leong Kok Meng rises to the occasion with two distinctive flavours that unmistakably exude the mooncake’s Chinese origins.
Sweet osmanthus or ‘kwai fah’, a native Chinese flower that is favoured for its heady peachy-floral scent is used to imbue the lotus paste filling. However, the sweet osmanthus flavour is barely discernible. It would have come across better if the lotus seed paste has been used on its own instead of being added with the salted egg yolk. Still I discovered a nice peachy aftertaste lingering in my throat after eating two wedges of the said mooncake.
Much loved by Chinese tea connoisseurs, the Pu Er tea is Chef Leong’s choice in the making of his smoked ‘Pu Er’ Mixed Nuts mooncake. These robust, earthy tea leaves and hickory wood chips lent their lovely aromas to the smoked assorted nut mixture for the mooncake filling.
Other varieties available include plain red bean paste in either baked or snow skin, pandan lotus with single yolk and snow skin mooncakes with lotus paste and salted egg yolk. Spring Garden’s mooncakes are priced from RM11.00++ onwards per piece depending on the variety.
SPRING GARDEN RESTAURANT (pork-free)
Crown Princess Kuala Lumpur
City Square Centre
Jalan Tun Razak
50400 Kuala Lumpur
Tel – 2162 5522 ext 5511
FOREST BERRIES AND MORE
Hong Kong chef Chan Kong Tung and dim sum chef, Chan Teck Woo put their heads together to conjure up fillings made from forest berries, white lotus seed with ginseng, golden custard with sweet corn and cheese with honey and walnut amongst others.
Made from strawberries, raspberries, cranberries and cherries, the mooncakes' sweetness is tempered by the berries’ tangy nuances.
Less extreme but equally interesting variants include mini snow skin with green tea, coffee or chocolate-whiskey fillings. Otherwise, you can’t really go wrong with traditional temptations like the Hong Kong white lotus seed paste with single yolk and pandan lotus seed paste with single yolk mooncakes.
Prices for Tai Zi Heen’s mooncakes range between RM8.00++ and RM14.00++ per piece.
TAI ZI HEEN (pork-free)
Prince Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Conlay
50450 Kuala Lumpur
Tel - 2170 8888 x 8200
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