“Let’s do the twist” is the clarion call that Shook!’s
executive chef Matthew Ona plans to send out for this year’s A Journey
Through Time at Starhill Gallery Kuala Lumpur. The premier watch and
jewellery exhibition returning for the eighth year will showcase rare
private collections, first-in-market editions and exquisite timepieces from
over 125 luxury brands, 20 of which are debuting in Malaysia.
Gala nights from 21 – 28 November will see guests relishing
scrumptious creations by Chef Matthew Ona and his team at Shook! based on the Twisted
Malaysian Fair theme. With the minutes ticking away after we arrived, samplings
of what’s in store came fast but not too furious. Dainty rolls of Brown Sugar Smoked Pacific Salmon with
Cucumber Yogurt Tzatziki and Salmon Roe quelled our rumbling tummies. Slick and
succulent, one could polish off quite a few of them at one go.
Expectations were heightened and met by the Chilled Prawn
Salad with Avocado, Cilantro and Toasted Cumin. Cusped in little buttery pastry
tart cases, the subtly spiced accent lent an apt touch to the delicate morsels. Rustic and rich with coy tinges of garlic and chives, it’s
best to go easy on the Braised Wild Mushroom Vol Au Vent with Roasted Garlic
Cream & Spring Chives. These wickedly decadent offerings primed our
tastebuds adequately for the upcoming preview dishes.
Chef Ona who hails from Minneapolis, Minnesota, started his
culinary journey at the age of 14. From the U.S. to the Bahamas and onwards to
Tokyo and Shanghai, Ona was previously the Executive Chef of Shook! in Shanghai
before his current KL stint. Wise to the ways of us Asians and our love for
strong flavours, the chef soon proved his mettle in pleasing discerning
foodies. Veering from West to East, Ona’s time-travelling selection would have
the well-heeled crowd savouring every culinary moment during the week-long A
Journey Through Time galas.
The classic French Salad Nicoise appeared in new guise with Ona
serving of Yellow Tuna Carpaccio Nicoise-Style, adorning the lightly seared
squares of fatty fish with tiny quarters of sun-dried tomato, Kalamata olive,
green beans and organic egg. Fresh herbs and lemon dressing lent finishing
touches to the bright, summery salad.
Next we were whisked away to Land of the Smiles where the
Thai-inspired Spicy Lemongrass Broth sparked riotous flavours on our tongues. Lightly
creamy on the palate, the inherent sweetness of shellfish was discernible,
melding seamlessly with the broth’s briny-punchy-tangy accents whilst shrimps
and seasonal mushroom added bouncy, tender textures.
The main course of Rusuk Rendang Puncak Mahligai brought us back
to familiar home ground; emphasising Malaysia’s culinary heritage with beef short
ribs grilled and then painstakingly braised like rendang. We love the clean,
orderly presentation that makes this perennial delicacy so haute; the buttery meat
set atop a pool of smooth unctuous spiced gravy, accompanied by a pair of
turmeric-poached shallot, crisp slivers of fried ginger and kaffir lime leaf,
crowned with a whole red bird’s eye chilli.
Using local fruits and herbs to great effect, the Malaysia Flavour
2014 dessert was a mind-boggling platter; a future-forward creation that looks
like a UFO. The stunning ensemble is something that I think the Demon Chef aka
Alvin Leung would approve of…we went wild over the cornucopia of lemongrass
jelly, coconut mousse, pandan sponge, mangosteen sorbet, peanut gianduja crème
and gula Melaka sago pearls. Like pieces of a puzzle, the different components
somehow fitted perfectly and caused time to stand still.
SHOOK! for reservations: +603 2782 3875. Address: Feast
Village at Starhill Gallery,
Jalan
Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur
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