FATT CHOY FEASTS AT TOH YUEN

PJ residents recently welcome the return of Toh Yuen - the city's bastion of Chinese dining at the Hilton Petaling Jaya after a recent bout of rejuvenation in December last year.

The breezy new look is much brighter and sleeker compared to the restaurant's previous broodier Chinoiserie concept. Pale gold, cream and lucite green hues with ebony black metal and rich dark wood trimmings beckon within the interior, leaving diners feeling completely at home.

Besides getting a first-hand look at the resto's new ID, we were feted to samplings from the 2015 CNY set menus. 

Dinner commenced on a vivacious note with a serving of customary yee sang (raw fish salad). Priced from RM78++ for a regular portion, ours was Salmon & Pear Yee Sang. We really like the plump, juicy pomelo sacs and pear strips that punctuated the colourful refreshing salad with bursts of fruity sweetness.

The pace warmed up further with Braised Fatt Choi Soup with Crab Meat - a velvety smooth broth strewn with fine threads of black seamoss, surimi crabstick, ethereal wisps of beaten egg and chunks of real crab meat. Nourishing and soulfully palate-pleasing.

Wading into the celebratory line-up is Steamed Fish in Onion Oil & Light Soy Sauce - a safe surefire bet that's bound to float most 'boats' for its auspicious symbolism for excess abundance.

Naturally no Chinese New Year feast is complete without chicken especially the poached version. Chinese Executive Chef Sam Lu decided to stick with tradition by proffering his take of Cantonese-style Simmered Chicken in Sand Ginger (Kaempferia galanga) Sauce.

This is such a classic well-loved dish that it's hard to fault. Juicy with just enough resistance in the muscly meat, the succulent chook is best enjoyed with the house minced ginger & scallion dip.

Little wolfberries (kei chi) and Chinese herbs bestowed their distinct nuances to the platter of Tiger Prawns, rendering enticing sweetness to the springy crustaceans. The delicate aroma and overtone of Chinese wine was also discernible in the clear, sweet jus pooled in the dish.

Equally faultless was the creation of Braised Fish Paste stuffed with Dried Oyster, Top Shell and Mushroom in Abalone Sauce. Slathered in glossy, unctuous sauce, the different components not only herald fortuitous meanings for diners but also delight the palate with sublime deliciousness.

Interestingly, the chef opted to serve Crispy Fried Flat Rice Noodles with Seafood in place of the usual waxed meat rice, befitting Toh Yuen's pork-free status. We were piqued by the heap of chewy fried kuay teow crackers which gave the dish extra chewiness. Save for the flood of gloopy sauce, the serving was quite agreeable.

Lemongrass Jelly coupled with Steamed Nin Koh brought sweet closure to our preview. While we lapped up the citrusy jelly in syrup, the dry dessicated coconut covered glutinous rice cake didn't fare so well. Some freshly grated coconut flesh would have boost the sweet treat nicely.

Toh Yuen's sumptuous Fatt Choy set meals are priced from RM1,288++ onwards for tables of 10 persons.

For reservations, call Toh Yuen, tel: o3 7955 9122 extn. 4073. The restaurant is located Hilton Petaling Jaya, Jalan Barat, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.