IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE AT LA RISATA

I'm in the mood for love...are you? With St Valentine's Day mere days away, now is the time to start panicking if you haven't made any reservations to wine and dine the love of your life! 

After sneaking samplings of the seductive San Valentino set menu at La Risata, I'd suggest you make haste and book a table asap. Priced at RM110++ per person, the lovely multi-course meal is available at both the Ampang and Damansara outlets.

To set your pulse racing and palate aptly primed, a sublime amuse bouche of Chilled Gazpacho with Cumin & Capers will be served. The bright vermillion hue of the tomato conconction captures the red-hot passion of this lovey-dovey celebration perfectly.

It's never too early to fish for compliments on your tasteful celebration venue choice as you tuck into the pretty as a picture appetiser of Smoked Salmon Carpaccio with Avruga Caviar, Rocket Salad, Boiled Quail Egg and Cherry Tomatoes. Light on the palate, the delicately rich quail egg and smoky fish slices dotted with tiny clusters of avruga caviar are balanced by the peppery zestiness of the rocket leaves and herbaceous accent of sliced fennel.

Like your whispers of sweet nothings, the subsequent course of Traditional Bergamo Raviolo stuffed with Lamb, Pears, Biscuits & Cheese in Butter & Sage Sauce Garnished with Mosto Cotto Sauce should leave you waxing lyrical over its exquisite deliciousness. These dainty lil' parcels pack such voluptuous flavours that just one bite will leave you wanting more. The dark mosto cotto sauce is a chocolate reduction so the deep-seated nuance lends extra allure to the dish.

For mains, the chef plans to proffer a choice of Seared Red Tuna Loin with Leek Risotto, Rose Jam & Squid Ink Salted Butter or Milanese Style Braised Osso Bucco with Polenta and Gremolata Sauce.

Both are equally sumptuous so you'd have to follow your heart or palate. The tuna is deftly prepared with a blush-pink centre and an outer seared rim, leaving it buttery tender. A match made in culinary heaven on a bed of creamy, nutty risotto, fragrant rose jam and a squiggle of bewitchingly dark squid ink-tinted butter.

The osso bucco ('bone with a hole' in Italian) is a Northern Italian speciality of cross-cut braised veal shank (revealing the marrow within the bone). Staying true to tradition albeit with a modern take on its presentation, the delectable meat is enlivened with gremolata (chopped herb condiment using parsley or coriander blended with garlic and lemon zest) and polenta (cornmeal).

The sweet treat of Cold Chocolate Sabayon on Strawberry Salad with Hazelnut Crumble & Whipped Cream is bound to set hearts a-flutter. Admittedly the classic trinity of strawberries, chocolate and nuts is a real tease; coyly sinful without segueing into utter decadence.

La Risata is not only for the lovelorn as its relaxed, inviting ambience also attracts a fair share of the professional and family crowd. Timeless classics rule the roost so if you're craving for some good hearty pizzas or comforting pasta dishes, take a seat and eat to your heart's content.

Groups of two or more would do well to start with the house Antipasti Misti (RM42) comprising buttery grilled mushrooms, crisp deep-fried calamari rings, slivers of beef carpaccio with cheese and garlic crostini with chicken liver pâté. We find the last most addictive especially when eaten with the sliced garlic, to counter the dense richness of the velvety pâté.

Pizza fans are spoiled for choice as there's 20 different variants listed! Naturally, the runaway crowd fave is Pizza Fruittì Di Mare (RM31++). Laden with succulent squid, mussels and prawns and accented with garlic, tomato and mozzarella on a thin and crunchy crust, it is possibly one of the better (if not the best) seafood pizzas in town.

Like Giorgio Armani's designs which advocate 'less is more', the Pizza Pera E Gorgonzola (RM30++) may look a tad plain but bite into a slice and you'd discover its true 'beauty'. The sweet-salty-savoury-peppery overtones rendered by the pear shavings, fresh rocket, gorgonzola, mozzarella and walnuts on the pizza are simply 'to die for'.

If you want something more distinctive, try the Pizza D'Anatra (RM36++) which marries smoked duck, rocket leaves and anchovies with caramelised onion and mozzarella. The results are surprisingly agreeable despite having so many strongly flavoured ingredients vying for attention.

Meat & potato fans would enjoy Agnello Alla Griglia (RM56++) - grilled chilled Australian lamb tenderloin with fennel & black pepper crust on a bed of mashed chickpea and vegetable caponata. Again the doneness is perfectly executed, leaving the loin centre with a healthy pink. Finished with a red wine reduction and boosted by the scrumptious 'side kicks', this speciality should leave you happily replete.

Those who prefer fish, we recommend the Pesce Alle Melanzañe Piccante (RM38++) - fried barramundi with sauteed eggplant, anchovy, garlic, pine nuts and chilli flakes, and julienned vegetables. You'd be hard pressed to find fault with the ensemble's delicate appearance and subtle layering of textures and taste. It is commendable that the vegetables are handled with a light hand, to retain their gorgeous colours and textures.

Pasta choices also abound but trust me, once you go black with Capellini Al Nero Con Fruittì Di Mare (RM35++), there's no turning back. The perfectly al dente angel hair pasta dressed in squid ink come adorned with juicy cherry tomatoes, whole springy prawns and squid rings.

I have a penchant for wicked Italian dessert and top of the list is Zucotto (RM18++). Now this pix doesn't do this liquer-spiked dome cake justice. Chocoholics would go weak at the knees at its chocolatey centre surrounded by vanilla cream studded with bits of almond, hazelnuts and more chocolate!

Savouring the Sicilian Bombe (RM38++ ample for two) brought back memories of my first taste of a classic dessert known as bombe Alaska. Both works on the same premise to impress - the outer meringue layer is doused with alcohol (usually brandy) then set alight to scorch the surface. Dig into the liquer-laced sponge and you'd find chilled lemon cream...talk about fire & ice.

Italians are crazy about Cannoli (RM16++) - Sicilian fried pastry shell filled with sweet ricotta cream then dipped in chocolate and pistachio bits. Find out what's the appeal for yourself here...it's an irresistible treat with lots of crunch and naughty temptation.

Personally I've never been a fan of the Christmas panettone as I find it hard and dry. But La Risata's Panettone Bread & Butter Pudding (RM16++) has changed my view drastically as it has never crossed my mind that the bread can be transformed into such a wonderful dessert. Studded with plump raisins and choccy bits, the spongy pudding is enlivened further with butterscotch and vanilla ice cream. Yums.

For reservations at La Risata, please call tel: 03-2095-9572 (Damansara) or

03-4252 6269 (Ampang). Details and more information available from http://www.la-risata.com/

La Risata
128 Jalan Kasah
Medan Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2095-9572 - See more at: http://pureglutton.com/la-risata-medan-damansara#sthash.BsIaskds.dpuf

TAO-RIFIC CHINESE NEW YEAR DELIGHTS

It's the yee sang to rule them all - TAO's South African Lobster Tempura Yee Sang snagged the limelight as the ultimate show-stopper for InterContinental KL's CNY preview.

Diced into bite-size cubes and lightly deep-fried in tempura batter, the king of shellfish bestowed an opulent touch to the season's customary 'must have' salad. Complemented by finely shredded radish and carrot with assorted pickles:  papaya, cucumber, red ginger, onion, cucumber and leek, the colourful platter drew its varied textures from the inclusion of  jelly fish, pomelo sacs, sesame seeds, crushed groundnuts, fried flour crisps and salmon skin.

According to Chef Wong Lian You, he uses a treacly-thick concoction of plum sauce with apple jam and lime juice, and extra virgin olive oil for the salad. "Yee sang shouldn't be too watery so it's important to balance the equation of vegetable, fruit and pickles in addition to the sauce. We want to keep it moist and flavourful enough to whet the appetite."

Once you have savoured the perky nuances of the lobster yee sang, more indulgent offerings are in store should you choose to have TAO's Full of Joy CNY Set priced at RM2,288++ per table of 10 persons.

Hot on the heels of the regal treat comes Double-boiled Baby Abalone Dumpling with Caviar and Superior Stock. Mind you, the dainty, super-luxe parcel bearing different kinds of 'caviar': wasabi tobiko, black smelt roe, gold and orange capelin roe looks impressive enough at first sight. Tucked away in the centre of bouncy prawn paste and minced chicken filling is a whole baby abalone that's bound to leave you smiling from ear to ear. Special mention must be made of the clear, sweet chicken consomme which the chef has enriched with dried scallops, chicken ham and dried longans.

Lately, 'poon choy' or Fortune Pot is fast gaining popularity as a festive fave and it's easy to see why.Fit for a king, it comes packed to the brim with sea cucumber, dried oysters, sea moss rolls, roast duck, soy sauce-braised chicken, mushrooms, dried scallops, fish maw, prawns, 'money bags', pomfret fillet, Hokkaido scallops, beancurd sticks and yam. 

Lined with cabbage leaves at the base, the whole extravagant ensemble is smothered in crabmeat pumpkin sauce; its mildly sweet nuance melding wonderfully with the assortment of pricey goodies and giving them an irresistibly golden glow. You can enjoy these seafood on their own or with a bowl or two of steamed jasmine rice.

  

Deep-fried Golden Mini Ninko Buns accompanied by Chilled Bird's Nest with Hawthorn, Snow Fungus, Peach and Aloe Vera completed our sumptuous culinary journey. This dessert pairing is one of the most imaginative we've encountered. Kudos to the creative chef who thought of using ninko as a unique bun filling. Flecked with dessicated coconut, the semi-runny centre really floored us but it was a winning touch that left a sweet, indelible impression on us.

TAO's CNY menus are available from now until 8 March. Priced at RM148++ per person for a 7-course lunch and RM1,688++ per table of 10 for 8-course set dinners. Special yee sang variants, dim sum and premium dishes will also be served throughout the festive celebration.

For reservations, call TAO, 03-2782 6128. Address: InterContinental KL, Jalan Ampang, KL.

 

REUNION FEASTS TO RELISH AT SI CHUAN DOU HUA

Chinese Chef Foong Koon Sang discerns himself from the rest of the festive flock with his Barbeque Lamb Yee Sang (RM98 nett ½ portion, RM148 full portion) this year. He said: “Preparation of this dish requires precision and accuracy, to ensure the meat remains tender and juicy. It has to be roasted under medium heat to maintain the meaty sweetness.” 

The mildly gamey slices added an assertive flavour dimension to the refreshing mixture of shredded fruits, vegetables and pickles. I’m ambivalent about the variant and reckon the resto's signature fruity version still trumps it all.

Next comes a smooth, almost silky broth with plump wolfberries (kei chi), enoki and luxe additions of spongy fa kau (fish maw), scallop and shark's fin. A tad sinful perhaps but the taste was redolent of that of the sea and its precious harvests.

We got real regal treatment with the serving of Egg White with Shrimps & Ebikko - a renown imperial dish that was once created to please the royal palate of an ancient Chinese empress dowager. The dulcet smooth, custard-soft satiny clumps whispered with such delicate fresh sweetness that we understood why this was such a favoured dish of the court.

A splendid offering of hearth and home is Village Chicken with Pacific Clams, Mushroom & Carrot. Gently perfumed with some appetising Chinese wine, the lean toothsome chook was a joy to savour. The musky clams and rustic mushroom added layers of texture and flavour that lifted the ensemble to heady heights.

 

You must pause and admire the nifty knife skills of the chef that were showcased in the Steamed Beancurd & Pumpkin platter. Adorned with a mound of diced chicken, gingko, seamoss, dried oyster, lotus seeds and sweet peas in the centre, the impossibly thin layers of white beancurd and golden pumpkin somehow reminded me of soft, fluttering butterflies on the tongue.

Since Si Chuan Dou Hua is a pork-free resto, the chef's ingenuity in serving Rice with Smoked Duck, Lotus Seeds & Black Mushroom deserves applause. The resultant taste closely resembled the real deal with crispy bits of salted fish giving the delicious grains its noticeably briny accent. We also love the subtly charred smokiness derived from the smoked duck slices.

Rectangular slices of White Nin Koh with Nestum Flakes wrapped up our CNY preview on an agreeably sweet note. The glutinous rice cake was a delight to sample and left us amply replete.

These festive specialities are culled from ten set menus available. Groups of four to 10 persons are accommodated with set menus priced from RM158 nett per person with a minimum of 2 persons to RM1288 nett per table of 10. A ‘Vegetarian Abundance’ set is also served at RM1188 nett for a table of 10.

From now to 17 February, two ‘Poon Choy’ set menus priced at RM398 nett for 2 to 5 persons and RM988 nett for 6 to 10 persons are tailored for family reunions. The potful of dried scallop, fish fillet, black mushroom, fish maw, roasted chicken, white radish, tiger prawn, yam, Chinese cabbage, dried oyster, roasted duck and bean curd sheet will be welcomed with much relish thanks to the ingredients' prosperous symbolisms and delicious promises.

PARKROYAL Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03 2147 0088 for reservations