CHEF JOSE ALONSO REIGNS AT THE LIBRARY

Simple, honest and vibrant best described Spanish guest chef Jose Alonso’s cooking. His signature Tallarines De Sepia Con Sofrito - Grilled Cuttlefish served with Sofrito and Veal Vinaigrette misled us into believing the slender white ribbons were hor fun noodles until we bit into them.

The mound of tender, slightly chewy cuttlefish ribbons was a spellbinding show-stopper. Aided by a quenelle of sofrito - a thick aromatic sauce of finely diced tomato, garlic, onion and thyme - amidst swirls of lush veal vinaigrette, the dish spoke volumes of the chef’s skilful handiwork. “Only cuttlefish weighing between 400-500g each is used as I want the correct thickness once they’re cut into strands,” says Chef Jose.

His opening volley for our lunch preview comprised Sandwich De Queso Fresco - Fresh Cheese Terrine Bikini and Berenjenas Con meil De Cana – Fried Honeyed Eggplant. The first - delicious bite-sized squares of toast sandwiched with creamy slivers of fresh cheese – hit the spot with some Spanish white wine.

But it was the latter we raved over – the utterly sublime broad, thin slices of crisp-fried eggplant came licked with a little honey and dotted with toasted pine nuts left us on tenterhooks, wondering what hidden aces were up his sleeve.

Having gained a decade of culinary experience with celebrity chefs such as Michelin-starred Sergi Arola, Francis Paniego and Spain's most celebrated Chef Santi Santamaria, Jose is now the Executive Chef at Binomio Spanish Restaurante in Singapore. 

His show of mettle extended to a trio of tapas, starting with the stellar grilled cuttlefish mentioned earlier. Another notable signature of his, Croquetas De Pollo Y Huevo - Chicken and Boiled Egg Croquettes were deftly rendered; the airy-light breadcrumbed crust containing a rich, almost custard-like mash up of chicken and boiled egg.

 

A liberal sprinkling of smoked paprika lent subtle firepower to the third tapas of Pulpo A La Gallega - Grilled Atlantic Octopus with Escalivada. I enjoyed the springy chewiness of the sliced octopus tentacles in contrast with the soft escalivada - Catalan-style roasted potato slices with olive oil.

Also taking pride of place in the menu was Arroz Negro - Squid Ink Paella with Seafood. As a Spanish chef worth his salt, the darkly tinted rice was faultlessly rendered using real squid ink (if it's artificial, your molars would be stained black but be assured, NOT in this case). Embedded in the moist, nutty grains were morsels of fish, prawns and squid - their inherent sweetness amplified by the dollop of aioli which we stirred in.

He then kept up the winsome streak with Jarrete De Cordero - Braised Lamb Shank, Potato Purée & Piquillo Peppers. This stunning speciality is a labour of love as the lamb has undergone an 11-hour sous vide process at 79°C, rendering it juicily tender and full of flavour. Paired with a grilled duo of the sweeter Spanish capsicum and asparagus, the chunk of lamb rested on a bed of smooth mashed potato.

Our Spanish gastronomic experience wrapped up with Churros Con Chocolate - Traditional Churros with Chocolate Sauce. Unfortunately, our serving of finger-thick fritters was a tad greasy - a minor blip in the overall scheme of a fine lunch.

Executive Chef Jose Alonso will hold court at The Library from October 25 to 29, 2016 (7pm-11pm) with a specially curated dinner menu priced at RM150 nett per person; served at The Library - a new, elegant dining enclave where the warm and relaxing yet stylish ambiance flaunts polished timber floors and wood panelling.

For more information or reservations, please call The Ritz-Carlton KL, tel:03-2142 8000 or email dining@ritzcarlton.com.my.

RITZY AFTERNOON TEA AFFAIR

 

All you afternoon tea enthusiasts must thank Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford for making the ritual of sipping tea and nibbling sandwiches fashionable in 19th century England. Not to be confused with the more substantial high tea partaken by the middle and low classes in place of dinner, the English upper crust enjoyed their pots of tea with some light snacks around 3.30-4pm. 

Today, the time honoured afternoon tea tradition is upheld within the plush, freshly rejuvenated confines of The Lobby Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur.

On weekdays from 3pm-6pm, you can indulge in the quintessential afternoon tea experience for RM80 (for 2 persons). Besides a triple tier of delicate goodies to savour, the price includes a pot of freshly brewed tea from a choice of 40 Ronnefeldt fine teas.

Depending on your mood or inclination, the selection ranges from black and green teas to herbal and fruit infusions. Alternatively, The Lobby Lounge also proffers various coffee brews for those who prefer a jolt of java. I love The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur's exclusive blend which combined Chinese tieh kuan ying (Iron Goddess of Mercy) with green oolong; its complex tea flavour tinged with a delicately creamy nuance.

Serenaded by soothing live music from a string quartet, we revelled in the luxurious and tranquil surrounds. Our amuse bouche for the day was a zingy salmon spread with dainty toast pieces. This went like a dream with my choice of Irish Whiskey Cream - a malty Assam black tea with hints of cocoa and the lush aroma of Irish whiskey.

The savoury temptations served during our visit were mini mushroom quiches and chicken pies. According to our friendly and knowledgeable hostess, Adriannah, most of the afternoon tea selection changes frequently so expect enticing surprises to whet the appetite on each visit.

Little Wagyu burgers with mushroom stole the limelight at first bite. Every mouthful was delectably scrumptious but the beef pastrami sandwiches were on point too. These choice morsels were nicely balanced by sips of Jasmine Gold, a fragrant Chinese tea perfumed with jasmine flowers. Even the tuna sandwiches with its subtly creamy filling held its own. 

Served warm with clotted cream, fruit preserve and marmalade, we then relished two types of scones. Again, the varieties depend on the chef's selection; it could be plain or flavoured scones: caramel, raisin or cinnamon. We certainly took our sweet time enjoying every bite of this classic offering.

Some element of East meets West emerged in the sweet treats. Light and flaky, the baked egg tarts were an unexpected albeit welcomed twist to the Continental confections: mini cheesecake, macaron, fruit tartlet and chocolate cake.

As an ardent chocoholic, the velvety and dense chocolate slice left me smitten as did the airy-light, mango-accented macaron. Amidst more sips of tea, we managed to do justice to the mini cheesecake - its wickedly decadence made me feel like a Cheshire cat that got the cream...

During weekends, the afternoon tea is priced at RM160 for 2 persons. Reservations are advisable to avoid disappointment.

For more information and reservations at The Lobby Lounge, call 03-2142 8000 or email dining@ritzcarlton.com.my

LET'S MAKAN AT LE MEI

Delicious pork-free dim sum and Chinese specialities beckon residents living in the southern Klang Valley at Le Mei, the new Chinese restaurant at Le Meridien Putrajaya. 

Clad in muted shades of cream, bronze and matte gold with the occasional bursts of red, Le Mei flaunts plush underfoot carpet and tasteful Chinese interior decor elements that make diners feel welcomed and put them immediately at ease.

Although just two months old, Le Mei has become the hot lunch spot for the corporate and government sectors and individuals in the vicinity. Chef Michael Wong and his team have their hands full serving up a variety of piping hot Signature Dim Sum and Chinese dishes to please them.

We were treated to an exclusive sampling of them recently, starting with a trio of Steamed Dim Sum (RM62): Black Truffle Shanghai Mini Dumplings, Steamed Scallop with Baby Abalone Dumplings and Chicken & Shrimp Dumplings.

The Shanghai xiao long bao dumplings (top left) was surprisingly on point - its sweet meaty broth similar to the real deal. Granted the skin was a tad thick compared to more famous ones in town but that would be nitpicking. Happily, the springy succulence of both the mushroom and minced chicken siew mai and scallop dumplings were also on par.

Out of the three Deep-Fried Signature Dim Sum (RM55), the Deep-fried Chicken Floss with Tuna & Shrimp Dumplings gained the most nods from us. We relished the filling's nice savouriness within the crunchy skin. Heavier flavours emerged from the Crispy Dried Cod Fillet with Fresh Prawns which should appeal to most local palates. We weren't so big on the Baked Bun with Barbecued Chicken though - our tastebuds rebelled against the rich and sweet, buttery crust as well as the sweetish filling.

Have a penchant for soup? Try the nutritious Double-Boiled Chicken Soup with Black Garlic Bulb (RM60). Dark and potent, the brew was a tad too rustic for my liking due to the black garlic used along with fish maw, shimeiji and chicken.

Wispy, billowy trails of dry ice heralded the arrival of Crispy Prawns Coated with Lemon Dressing, Tropical Fruit Salsa and Tobiko Caviar (RM68). Granted, it was a deftly prepared offering with the prawns lightly sheathed in crisp batter and creamy albeit stoic coating. Dotted with tiny dices of dragonfruit and strawberry, and tobiko, the crustacean dish lacked pizzazz. We reckon an unexpected burst of chilli heat or tartness would have jazz things up for the better.

At first sight, the Steamed Soon Hock with Pickled Chilli and Soya Crumbs (RM45) held much promise but alas, I found my portion overcooked. While the fish still had its natural sweetness, the flesh was regrettably tough to stomach. Steaming fish demands close attention to timing so hopefully, this could be put down to the occasional lapse in judgement.

Thankfully, our faith in Le Mei was restored once we savoured the Wok-Fried Marinated Lamb Chops with Dried Chillies and Garlic Chips (RM85). Redolent with aromatic spices including the tongue-numbing Sichuanese peppercorns as well as sesame seeds, the delectable lamb pieces spurred us to pick the bones clean.

 

Personally, I'd pick the Deep-fried & Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables (RM64) as the session's stellar performer. Defyingly simple, the various greens (baby milk cabbage, eggplant and snow peas) and fungus (shimeiji & baby black fungus) melded so cohesively, we sung high praises of the dish's delicate textures and flavours.

Since our tummy space was reaching maximum capacity, the Fried Rice with Crabmeat, Crispy Sun-Dried Scallops, Egg White and Sweet Bean (RM28) was dutifully tried and tested. It tasted acceptable although its presence failed to elicit much excitement.

Perhaps we were too distracted by the dessert of Salted Egg Ice Cream with Red Bean Paste (RM6)? It was my first time sampling such an inventive flavour - the current trend has seen salted egg yolk infused into everything, from croissant to cakes nowadays. Taste-wise, the ice cream wasn't too weird as the eggy, savoury accent came out subtler than I had anticipated. A memorable way to wrap up our maiden visit to Le Mei.

For reservations, call Le Mei restaurant, tel: 03 8689 6888. Address: Lobby Level, Le
Méridien Putrajaya, Lebuh IRC, IOI Resort City, Putrajaya.