HENING: A SERENE MALAY FOOD OASIS

Ikan Pekasam Utara (RM15), traditional Perakian fermented ikan loma (river carp) with ground roasted rice and salt is one of the must try dishes at Hening. Sautéed with sliced chillies and onion, the slightly funky, acidic sour-salty and gritty pekasam fish isn’t for the faint-hearted. I love it precisely due to that distinct taste.

We are stoked to savour this and other Malay dishes at Hening, one of the handful of Malay cuisine outposts in the city. Housed in a repurposed old bungalow, three enterprising young men (pic above): Mohd Syariman Zulkifli (centre) and brothers Irham Shah bin Azhar (left) and Ehsanuddin Shah bin Azhar (right) strive to raise Malay cuisine beyond no-frills stall setting into classier environs aimed at locals and tourists.

Banking on their collective strengths and F&B experience coupled with guidance from Syariman’s father and former hotel chef Zulkifli Aziz, the partners aim to draw city folks, urban families and foreign visitors to Hening.

Hening which means serenity or peaceful in Malay, exudes charming old-school vibes thanks to its terrazzo floors and vintage elements. Ehsan relied on his architectural expertise to update the all-white interior with colourful artworks by local artist Rahim Ismail.

Chef Syariman who has 17 years of industry experience is responsible the restaurant’s food and kitchen whilst Irham takes care of marketing and financial matters, and Ehsan, manpower.

Menu-wise, Johor and Perak specialities take centrestage. Lunch dishes are ideal for communal sharing, served alongside Nasi Putih Daun Pisang (RM4 per portion), steamed basmathi rice wrapped in banana leaf.

Aside from pekasam, the appetising Thai-inspired Kerabu Limau Bali (RM15), is a notable spicy-tangy-salty pomelo salad. We recommend accompanying the rice with robustly flavoured mains such as Masak Lemak Daging Bakar (RM40) or Masak Lemak Siakap Goreng (RM45), smoky grilled beef slices or fried whole seabass in rich, turmeric-accented curry prepared following Negeri Sembilan style.

Subtly spicy-tangy tamarind sauce, chopped tomatoes and onion boosts the appeal of Daging Batang Pinang Bakar Air Asam (RM40), grilled tenderloin skewers. Mellower but no less tempting is Johor-style Asam Pedas Jenahak (RM45), fleshy whole snapper in piquant chilli-tamarind gravy.

To wrap up your meal, try nostalgic sweet treats of Pisang Madu Tiga (RM12), caramelised bananas with vanilla ice cream, and Sago Gula Melaka with fresh mango dices. Local tea-time treats such as Curry Puffs, Onde Onde and Bubur Cha Cha are available from 3pm onwards.

Alternatively, sample thirst-quenchers: Hening Pagi (RM12) using fresh pomegranate, Hening Senja (RM12) with crushed strawberries, soda and lemon, or Hening Malam (RM12), fresh watermelon juice with soda.

When it comes to good, comforting Malay food, Hening rules the roost.

For reservations, call Hening restaurant at tel: 017-331 6964. Address: 56, Lorong Damai 1, Jalan Damai, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 8am to 6pm daily

CREATIVITY RULES AT NEWLY REFRESHED TOH YUEN

Familiar yet fresh sums up the newly renovated Toh Yuen restaurant. Modern elegance with contemporary touches blends artfully with traditional accents of red and understated decorative elements to create a serene, sophisticated dining space.

 

With a seating capacity of 150 and four private dining rooms, Toh Yuen is ideal for casual and special outings.

Among the culinary gems awaiting diners is Roasted Peking Silver Hill London Duck (RM168 nett for half duck, RM268 nett whole duck). The Wagyu of ducks are meticulously roasted using a customised oven then carved tableside. Wrapped in delicate pancakes, the meltingly tender duck is accompanied by fresh cucumber strips, spring onions, and rich hoisin sauce; a delectable treat you’re unlikely to forget.

The remaining duck meat is then transformed into delicious Braised Shredded Duck with Ee Fu Noodle. Truffle oil adds a luxe touch to the silky noodles. Crisp cornets stuffed with duck meat and other dishes are available from the restaurant too.

For an overview of its dim sum repertoire, Toh Yuen offers a Dim Sum Lunch Set at RM99 nett per person. The culinary team puts a lot of efforts into creating exquisite morsels such as the goldfish-shape Steamed Cod Dumpling with Chicken Broth (so good I was tempted to lick the plate clean), Steamed Siew Mai with Hokkaido Scallop (an on-point showcase of bouncy-tender textures), and delicate Steamed Spinach Dumpling with Shrimp and Wolfberries (love the translucent skin yielding to a clean vegetal nuance touched with the fleeting sweetness of shrimp and wolfberries).

One of the show-stealers to gain two thumbs up is Baked Chicken Tart with Abalone. The flaky pastry encasing a mildly sweet-savoury chicken filling topped with mini abalone is memorable for its resemblance to char siu sou.

Even the soup course is levelled up with a mini pumpkin filled with Braised Crab Meat Broth with Scallop and Asparagus. Delicate flavours aplenty, with subtle crunch of the asparagus and supple-soft diced scallop bestowing textural interest.

Should you decide to go à la carte, we highly recommend sampling Toh Yuen’s signature offerings. Notable specialities such as Sweet and Sour Diced Chicken with Figs stood out for its enticing sauce and palate-pleasing fried chicken pieces paired with fresh sweet figs, and the supremely tender Stir-Fried Wagyu Beef with Porcini Mushrooms and Trio of Peppercorn.

Sweet with on-point doneness, the Steamed Pomfret with Pickled Red Chillies and Minced Ginger is divine. Kudos to the chef for the tantalising combination of robustly flavoured toppings.

The springy Golden Butter Prawns with Cashew Nuts appears par for the course. I’d wish the chef has given this offering a little twist, just to set it apart from the competition.  

It’s nice to conclude on a high with a distinct Egg Custard Pastry (deliciously flaky and custard-soft filling win every time). Even the Chilled Mango Puree with Sago and Pomelo finds favour with its just-nice sweetness.

Open daily from 12.30 pm to 2.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 10 pm, reservations at Toh Yuen are highly recommended. 

To book a table or more information, contact Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya at tel: 03 7955 9122 or WhatsApp 016 216 0414, or email PETHI_FB@hilton.com, or visit eatdrinkhilton.com.