NEW CHEF’S SPECIALITIES WITH PLAYFUL FLAIR AT YUN HOUSE

 
Familiar yet fresh. Inventive yet timeless. Chef Jimmy Wong and his Yun House team have rendered fresh Hong Kong-style twists to some classic recipes, resulting in visually striking and tastefully exquisite dishes with playful spins to captivate guests.

Presented on a chic canvas of modern tableware, we readily succumbed to Crispy Rice Vermicelli with Foie Gras and Oyster. How could we fault the artful melding of shatter-crisp texture with luxuriantly rich foie gras and the mollusk's plump suppleness?

Instead of the usual square deep-fried toast, we nibbled on lightly breaded, ball-shaped Prawn Toast with Caviar. Tiny pops of brininess from the lustrous caviar pearls heightened our enjoyment of the springy prawn stuffing and crispy toast.

Likewise, we enthused over the slick black vinegar sauce which exuded mellow, well-rounded tanginess; a nice masterstroke to complement the Mini Beef Steak, tempering its meaty richness.

The spongy-softness of fish maw segued to the delicacy of bamboo charcoal skin when we bit into the Fish Maw Dumpling with Cordycep Flower and Black Garlic. Umami accent from cordycep flowers merged with earthy complexity of black garlic on our palate the more we chewed.

Diminutive dices of barbecued duck lent an unexpectedly delicious twist to the filling for the red topped, wispy Deep-fried Yam Puff with Roasted Barbecued Duck. The faintly savoury-sweet taste of nam yue (fermented red beancurd) was discernible when we devoured the yam puff.

Primed up with a whole deep-fried Alaskan Crab Meat Wonton, we lapped up every drop of the stimulating Hot and Sour Soup with Sea Scallops and Tofu. Hats off to the chef for employing the scrumptious dumpling and scallops to level up the crowd-pleasing broth.

Equally stellar was Steamed Black Cod with Chopped Chilli. We were reeled in by the fish's natural sweetness and satiny smooth texture, touched with an aromatic superior soy sauce dressing.

Soul-satisfying Braised Hong Kong Ee-Fu Noodles with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Paste left us replete. Nuanced with lush woodsy and musky accents, we slurped up every salubrious strand.

Miraculously, our close to bursting tummies found room to fit in the luscious Yin Yang Black Sesame Ice Cream with Chilled Almond Milk. Redolent with the distinct nuttiness of both ingredients, the alluring dessert proved too irresistible especially since I'm partial to almond milk.

Suffice to say, the selection of new chef’s specialities are befittingly worthy of the Michelin selected restaurant.

To reserve a table at Yun House, contact tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com.
 

BOWLED OVER BY NOODLES AND SHANGHAI DIM SUM AT DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Five Flavours Shanghai Dumplings (RM25 nett) was the headline offering to tease our tastebuds at the newly launched Impressively Shanghai promotion at The Emperor.

Served daily for lunch (12noon – 2.30pm), we feasted on six new Shanghainese dim sum created by Dim Sum Master Chef Chan Chee Loong.

Naturally coloured with beetroot (red), spinach (green), carrot (yellow) and butterfly pea flower (blue), the soup-filled chicken meat dumplings were delicious. Vinegar and shredded ginger dip is served on the side, to dial up the taste appeal.

We also enjoyed soul-satisfying Rice Rolls with Yam Bean and Dried Shrimps (RM13 nett). A fresh take on chee cheong fun albeit the flat rice rolls are broader and stuffed with scrumptious shredded yam bean (sengkuang) and dried shrimps. Simplicity at its best.

Drawn from an age-old recipe, Shanghai Traditional Glutinous Rice with Chicken Meat (RM15 nett) dumplings won us over with its clear, delicate nuances and pleasant grainy chewy texture.

Crispy with sweet oniony flavour, the Housemade Scallion Pancake (RM13 nett) proved on-point too. The wedges proved addictive as we found ourselves reaching for second and third helpings.

A nice departure from the usual steamed buns, we gave thumbs up to Pan-fried Shanghai Chicken Buns (RM16 nett) and Pan-fried Shanghai Dumplings (RM16 nett). The irresistible savoury filling and varied textures made fans out of us.

 
Always up for something spicy, the crowd-pleasing Prawn Dumplings with Chilli Oil (Rm18 nett) managed to hit the spot. Chilli fiends will enjoy the zingy heat contrasting against the scrumptious dumplings.

Noodle fans will find tangles of endearment from The Emperor’s hefty servings of Big Bowl Noodles. Available now until 31 August for lunch and dinner, the big bowls of thick or thin noodles come in three different permutations. Each big bowl can serve 2-3 persons.

Much to my surprise, I was besotted with the Deep-fried Giant Grouper with Special Vermicelli in Salted Vegetable Soup (RM128 nett per order). A riff on the currently popular suan chai yue – the regional Chinese dish of sour vegetable with fish, we eagerly slurped up every strand, morsel and drop in our bowls.

Surrounded by blanched bok choy, the tangy-sour broth stimulated our salivary glands into overdrive; teasing us with sweet slices of giant grouper, strands of salted vegetable amidst toothsome vermicelli noodles.

Turning up the luxe factor was Slipper Lobster and Seaweed with Shanghai Noodles in Superior Soup (RM148 nett per order). The umami-packed broth melded well with the sweetness of slipper lobster whilst straw mushrooms lent textural variation.

The viral ‘flying noodles’ also made an appearance here much to our delight. Both young and old alike should relish digging into the crispy noodles immersed in an eggy sauce. Pin-drop silence ensued when we were busy gobbling down the Flying Noodles with Deep-fried Fresh Water Prawns and Crab Meat in Egg White Sauce (RM188 nett per order). Proof it was an all-round winner in terms of presentation and taste.

For reservations and booking, contact The Emperor Restaurant, Dorsett Grand Subang, tel: 03-5031 6060 ext. 1954 or email:bookfnb.subang@dorsetthotels.com

TUAN YUAN THIS DRAGON YEAR AT LE MEI, LE MERIDIEN PUTRAJAYA

 

An impressive dragon-shaped yee sang and a romantic setting heralded the Chinese New Year sneak preview at Le Mei Chinese restaurant, Le Meridien Putrajaya.

The cosy affair saw pretty lasses in qi pao greeting us at the door with tempting pineapple tarts, mandarin orange macarons and peanut tartlets along with mocktails. With Valentine’s Day four days after the first day of CNY, the hotel's novel idea seemed timely and appropriate. 

The multiple course CNY Tuan Yuan (reunion) set menus featured Chef Lim Kian Meng and team’s traditional and contemporary specialities. Available now until 25 February 2024, Yee Sang selection is priced from RM60 – RM388 depending on portion sizes. Splendour and Luxurious set menus for table of 5 are at RM1,590 nett with a complimentary bottle of wine.

Our preview got off to a rousing start with everyone stirring up the dragon-shaped yee sang laid out; a boisterous experience as we all stirred and tossed the fresh salad with joyful shouts wishing for prosperity, abundance and fortune.

Sampling the Salmon, Tosaka Nori Green and Butter Fish Yee Sang, we found the well-balanced dish teased our palate with a mélange of sweet, tangy and refreshing flavours. The various crisp, crunchy and succulent textures melded cohesively.

 

The heartwarming Double Boiled Silkie Fowl Soup with Dried Scallops, Dendrobium and American Ginseng packed a bittersweet punch at first sip. My palate was instantly awakened but perhaps some diners may find it too strong for their liking. However, the hotel team had taken note of this feedback and once the amount of American ginseng used is adjusted, we are sure the nutritious soup should hit the spot.

 

You have to be a fan of interesting smooth and slippery textures with the epicurean speciality of Braised Whole 6-head Abalone with Fish Maw and Goose Web in Premium Oyster Sauce.

 

Although some may baulk at eating goose web, try and appreciate its soft supple texture and collagen-richness. Along with the marble-smooth and succulent fish maw and the toothsome chewiness of abalone, the entire ensemble is all about textural mouthfeel. Also, the nuanced marine flavours of the lustrous, savoury sauce packed so much depth it almost induced us to lick the plate clean.

A mutedly zingy black pepper sauce amped up the appeal of Wok Fried Australian Lamb Rack with Black Truffle. We like how the wedge of caramelised onion's crisp sweetness lent a subtle counterpoint to the meaty richness.

Lending a healthy spin to the festive menu was Fried Organic Brown Rice with Quinoa, Seafood and Sakura Shrimps. Slightly nutty with abundant savoury-sweetness coming from the seafood inclusion, this creation was a shoo-in palate-pleaser.

Old-school dessert of Double Boiled Almond Tea with Honey Locust Fruit, Snow Fungus and Black Sesame Dumplings brought the curtains down. The dessert broth's distinctly nutty accent could be a tad strong for non-almond fans but I personally enjoyed the interplay of different textures amidst the delicate creaminess.

 

For elevating good luck and prosperity, don’t pass up the chance to sample Deep-fried Golden Spring Roll of Glutinous Rice Cake, Yam and Sweet Potato. Crisp on the outside, the roll proved enticing with its filling of gooey- and powdery-soft textures.

For tables of 10 persons, Le Mei offers four set menus priced at RM1,988 nett, RM2,688 nett, RM3,688 nett and RM3,888 nett. Instrumental music performed live during weekends for dinner whilst a lion dance will be held from 12 noon onwards on the first day of Chinese New Year at Le Meridien Putrajaya porte cochere.

For reservations at Le Mei, call tel: 03 8689 6888 x 6868 or email: dining.lmputrajaya@lemeridien.com. More information at this link: https://lnk.bio/hDlm