ALIYAA SHOWCASES SRI LANKAN CUISINE

 

Cinnamon, cardamom, chillies and coconut are essential building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tamarind and curry powder are also favoured in the arsenal of spice mixes for Chef Sivarajah Suppiah of Aliyaa.

Hailing from Nuwara Eliya also known as Little England, the tea growing hills of Sri Lanka famed for its cool climate and colonial era bungalows, Chef Siva started cooking at 18 years old. As the eldest child, he was responsible for preparing family meals when his parents were at work.

Chef Siva was recruited to join Aliyaa in 2008 and worked hard to eventually spearhead the Aliyaa team in 2012. He was instrumental in promoting the diverse flavours of Sri Lanka to the restaurant’s local clientele. “From our famous crab sambal to soul-warming kothu, Aliyaa strives to showcase Sri Lanka’s vibrant food scape through the intricate use of spices and techniques passed down through generations.”

The homespun Kothu (RM30-RM45) is a compelling must try offering. An ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, roti or puttu (steamed cylindrical-shape ground rice cakes layered with grated coconut), it’s cooked with chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetables in addition to egg, onions, and chillies. Stir-fried in a heated stone pot, the comforting kothu’s enticing charred smokiness and mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures are similar to that of char kway teow.

Earlier we had devoured some golf ball-sized Fish Cutlets (RM24), crisp yet tender orbs of flaked mackerel fish and aromatic spices dipped into luscious onion sauce. No prizes for guessing why this dish remains a favourite among Aliyaa customers.

Another classic hit is Crab Meat Curry (RM185) in which chunks of sweet crab meat comes served in slightly creamy, robustly flavoured curry. Such bliss to enjoy sumptuous bites of crab meat minus the hassle of cracking shells and extracting bits of crab meat. The curry’s stealthy heat also left us hot under the collar.

Named after Sri Lanka’s beach resort with its time-honoured seafood and ancient fishing traditions, the speciality of Tiger Prawns Negombo (RM38 per 100g) proudly stood up to scrutiny. Huge, succulent tiger prawns in thick, aromatic curry reeled us in; capturing our hearts and tummies with a symphony of winsome flavours and texture.

We then relished scraping out the soft pulp from long, slender Moringa pods in a notable Drumstick Curry (RM22). Dousing the turmeric-accented gravy over rice, we were gratified to know drumsticks are good for digestion, high in fibre and rich in calcium and iron.

A gastronomic journey to Sri Lanka can be sampled via the Aliyaa Experience set menu (RM128 per person, minimum 2 persons per table). Crab Samosa and Atukkal Rasam served as the opening salvo.

The isle’s vibrant food heritage will be revealed to you as you work your way through the small portions of Fish Sothi, Prawn Varuval, Devilled Chicken, Mutton Curry, Cashewnut Paal (brinjal) Curry, Brinjal Moju (pickle), Nethili (dried anchovies) Sambol, Vallarai (medicinal herb also known as daun pegaga) and Carrot Sambol, Papadam and Chilli, along with Nei Soru (ghee rice) and string hoppers.

Completing the sensorial tasting party are warm, fluffy soft Sweet Appam sprinkled with palm sugar.

To cap off our Sri Lankan culinary adventure, we indulged in Wattalappam (RM15), a classic steamed custard pudding of coconut milk, eggs and spices delicately sweetened with jaggery.

For reservations at Aliyaa, call tel: 017-883 3738. Address: 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

 

PRINCELY SET LUNCH AT JOON DINING

Lamb, lobster, dry-aged chicken. These are some of the tempting choices you'd find Joon Dining's Set Lunch...minus the princely sum. The restaurant’s 3 course Set Lunch at RM48++ per person and 4 course for RM60++ per person is a good deal these days.

The culinary force here is 43-year old Tyrell Joon whose fine-dining credentials include stints at the much-lauded Les Amis and Iggy’s in Singapore. Opened last year, Joon Dining is part of the Rare Food Company; the modern, minimalist restaurant is located at B.Land in Petaling Jaya where several other hipster joints are also onsite.

 

Chef Joon said “the set lunch is a pared-down version of our degustation menu. Our aim is to entice more local diners to try Joon Dining’s specialities; enabling them to learn about my modern European cooking infused with Asian influences. We hope they will understand and appreciate the new ingredients we use, and our innovative food preparation techniques such as meat ageing and sous vide. We also want to educate more people on food and wine pairings.”

The Set Lunch first course comprised warm, house-made Ciabatta Roll with Garlic Lemon Butter – a nice starter to whet the appetite whilst we perused through the list of five starters, five main courses and two desserts.

My personal favourite starter is the truffle oil-scented Mushroom Cappuccino with Sourdough Melba Toast. Foamy at first sip, we took to the lush and creamy soup instantly; relishing every delicious spoonful in-between bites of the crisp wafer-thin toast.

Tossed with shredded lettuce, purple cabbage and chunks of pomelo sacs, the refreshingly tangy Baby Octopus al ajillo style (it means cooked in garlic) came flecked with crisp garlic and chilli flakes. This on-point salad also got the thumbs up.

Chef Joon’s Sautéed Wild Mushroom with slightly chewy Duck Gizzard and Balsamic Crème proved winsome too. We enjoyed the varied range of textural interplay from the custardy soft onsen egg, chewy gizzard and tender fungi. The lightly toasted pieces of bread were great for mopping up the sauce.

Another locally inspired appetiser is Pani Puri. The fried semolina-wheat dough, sized like ping-pong balls, came with an appetising filling of diced salmon, compressed apple and ginger ponzu dressing. So fun and delightful to eat.

Vegetarians and health-conscious diners may opt for Roasted Cauliflower with Salted Egg Gribiche, Pumpkin Seeds, and Sultanas. Joon tweaked the gribiche (French cold egg sauce) with salted egg yolks, emulsifying it with oil and mustard then adding chopped chervil to finish. Sultanas and pumpkin seeds lent mild sweetness and crunch to the dish.

Zingy Sichuan peppercorns’ tongue-tingling heat dialled up the appeal of Mala Mongolian Lamb Ragout. Served with mini fried mantou buns, we had a field day chomping on the juicy chunks of lamb amidst soft radish pieces and deep-fried lotus root crisps.

Chef Joon’s meat-ageing showcase is exemplified by his Free Range Dry Aged Chicken Confit with Tajin Lyonnaise Potatoes and Sweet Corn Velouté. Complemented by sweet, creamy smooth velouté, caramelised onion and fried baby potatoes, the tender chicken and spiced potatoes hit the spot for us. He told us the ageing process tenderises the meat and intensifies its flavour.

For a supplementary charge of RM18, you can savour the chef’s show-stealing Lobster Pasta. The natural sweetness of the wild-caught spiny lobster meat was accentuated by mellow spicy-sour kimchi sauce, making it a superb pairing with his fresh, handmade pasta.

Tuak along with chilli and garlic was Joon’s choice to flavour his famed Vongole Pasta (RM48). Suffused by the heady rice wine and aromatics, the Bornean clams’ sea-sweetness was thoroughly soaked up by the house-made pasta.

The Super Seafood Paella (supplementary charge of RM28) was laden with clams, prawns and half a lobster (mixed seafood may change dependent on catch of the day). Rendered with tomato cream and sweet basil aioli, this hearty rice dish left no room for complaints.

From the a la carte line-up, we fished for Broiled Izumidai with Ulam Raja Parmesan Espuma and Choy Poh Popcorn (RM58). TBH, we found the tiny bits of preserved radish ‘popcorn’ barely made a difference to the sweet white Nile tilapia, somewhat eclipsed by the more distinct nuances of parmesan and local herb.

Dessert was a tad underwhelming as only Lemon Cheese Curd Tart was available during our visit. Even though the tart had canned peach slices and honey tuile as adornments, the lemon curd didn’t leave any impression.

Dry-ageing eel and chicken in the special cabinet at Joon Dining

For reservations at Joon Dining, call tel: 016-848 4257. Address: Lot 1, b. Land, 2, Jalan 51a/225, Seksyen 51a, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Mon-Sat 12 noon – 2 pm; 6 pm – 9 pm

 

NEW TEMPTATIONS BECKON AT KAZUMA

Oden is one of those rare but delicious specialities few Japanese restaurants serve in the Klang Valley. Hence I was stoked when I discovered Oden Moriawase (RM22) is now available at Kazuma Japanese restaurant.

This homey, heartwarming stew comes with 6 types of Japanese fish cakes (chikuwa being my favourite), radish chunks, a hardboiled egg and toothsome konnyaku. Also known as konjac, the jiggly yet firm jelly-like blocks are made from the starch of devil’s tongue plant.

Kazuma’s chef Tsutomu Haneishi has also refreshed some offerings for the latest menu. Right off the bat, there’s now a small selection of Japanese appetisers to complement your drinks of choice.

We like the crisp-crunchiness of Koebi Karaage (RM15), deep-fried small shrimps and the succulence of Salmon Tataki Carpaccio (RM30), seared salmon sashimi with black sesame dressing.

Naturally, crowd-pleasing favourites such as Hama Sashimi (5 types of sliced raw fish: RM90 – 2 pcs each type, RM125 – 3 pcs each type) and Potato Salad (RM20) with creamy Japanese mayo have been retained.

For the former, diners may choose from maguro (tuna), salmon, hotate (scallop), hamachi (yellowtail), tako (octopus) and amaebi (sweet shrimp). Rest assured the Kazuma team strives to source the freshest seafood from around the world that measures up to the restaurant’s quality standards.

 

Our penchant for sushi was amply fulfilled on our recent visit with the introduction of Special Nigiri Sushi Tokujyou (RM87) into Kazuma’s new menu. The sea-fresh sweetness of those tender slices of maguro chutoro, hamachi, salmon, hotate, amaebi, unagi and ikura (vinegared rice topped with salmon roe) was certainly on-point.

Should you prefer cooked stuff, we recommend sampling Unagi Yanagawa (RM65), scrumptious simmered eel with vegetable and egg. Served bubbling hot in a little cast iron pot, we love every bite of the subtly sweet eel juxtaposed against the ethereal cloud-like softness of the egg.

Tendon (RM34), a wholesome meal in one consisting of steamed rice topped with assorted tempura, pickles and soup is another notably classic choice to satisfy the tastebuds. The mildly sweet sauce drizzled over the tempura and rice proved appetising, enticing us to polish off everything.

Heartier servings with splendid value for money are the new additions of Teishoku Sets. These beautifully composed set meals come with chawan mushi (steamed egg custard), steamed rice, miso soup, salad, pickles and fruits to accompany a choice of mains.

Having savoured Grilled Chicken Shioyaki/Teriyaki (RM35) and Unagi Kabayaki & Sashimi (RM70), we’d say both stellar options should hit the spot.

For vegetarians, Kazuma proffers a Vegetarian Bento (RM50). The tempting set comprised tofu steak, assorted vegetable tempura, pumpkin croquette, simmered vegetable, futomaki sushi and inari sushi. A visually and palatably pleasing set guaranteed to leave you happily satisfied.

Noodle enthusiasts aren’t forgotten either. We find it hard to decide whether Tempura Chasoba (RM22) or Shoyu Ramen and Inari Sushi (RM25) is better.

The former proffers springy buckwheat noodles which can be served hot or cold, accompanied by delectably crisp, airy-light battered prawns and vegetables.

If you prefer soupy noodles then the latter will hit the spot. We found the springy ramen in shoyu broth lighter on the palate, with the supplementary piece of inari sushi providing textural contrast.

Our requisite sweetener to conclude proceedings was Kurogoma (black sesame) Ice Cream (RM15) but other options available include Matcha Ice Cream (RM15) or Yuzu Sherbet (RM18).

For reservations, call Kazuma Japanese Restaurant, tel:03-2149 2666. Address: Level 1, Wisma Concorde, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Business hours: Mon- Sat: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm. Closed on Sunday and public holidays.