CHEF NAT’S FLAVOURS OF THAILAND AT NIPAH

Thailand’s foremost lady butcher and meat maestro, Natsasi Noo-in – better known as Chef Nat – wields anatomical precision with gastronomic flair, bringing invigorating Thai flavours to Nipah and Étoile, EQ Kuala Lumpur.
 
From 25 to 28 June, the tour de force of The Lady Butcher restaurant and Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA) ambassador will thrill carnivores alike. Equal parts meat master, sustainability champion and culinary innovator, Chef Nat is famed for elevating secondary Aussie beef cuts and often-overlooked offal to rarefied heights. Her mantra? "Choosing ingredients is like choosing a partner and Australian beef is my perfect match."

 
EQ guests will find the chef’s custom menu a study in balance and bravado — part technical precision, part homespun Thai soul. Her Tom Saap is a fine example in which Australian beef osso buco bestows meaty essence into a muted herbal-accented broth, punctuated with wild mushrooms.

Her bright, zingy Thai Beef Salad is almost symphonic with fresh coriander, chillies, lemongrass and lime. Unmissable Young Mango, Glass Noodles and Thai Seafood Salad tango invitingly on the palate; the profusion of tantalising nuances priming tastebuds for the mains to come.

Robust, soul-warming Beef Topside Gaeng Om coaxes deep, layered complexity from humble cuts of beef and exotic Thai herbs. Underpinning her Thai background is Braised Beef Short Rib Salad with Pomelo and Mint.

She cannily banks on nam jim jeaw – the go-to Thai sauce for grilled meat to enhance the allure of her Beef Rump Carpaccio with Jaew Dressing. More fusion in approach is the Smoked Beef Brisket with Cherry Tomatoes & Burrata Cheese.

 
Seared to smoky perfection, we relish the tender Banana Leaf Grilled Australian Ribeye, complemented by a punchy roasted rice and black pepper sauce.

 
The standout Grain Fed Picanha Steak, dressed in makwaen (prickly ash, a star-anise shape spice similar to Sichuan peppercorn) spiked jaew, tastes superb paired with sticky rice. Likewise, Braised Beef Brisket with Rice Noodles piques interest with stimulating flavours.

 
Lamb lovers will find much to love with the moreish Lamb Loin Larb with Organic Greens (crisp outer crumb yielding to scrumptious lamb mince inside) and fall-off-the-bone tender Braised Australian Lamb Shank in Soy Sauce with Salted Egg Yolk.

 
The chef culminates her showcase with Mango Sticky Rice Trio and Bua Loy in Coconut Milk. These dessert treats deliver a warm, sweet ending to the meat-dominated affair.

 
Priced at RM198+ per adult and RM99+ per child (6–12 years),
Chef Nat’s specialities are available at Nipah from 25–28 June 2025, served buffet-style from 6.30pm – 10.30pm. The Étoile semi-buffet brunch on 29 June is priced at RM158+ per adult and RM79 per child.

 
For reservations, call EQ Kuala Lumpur, WhatsApp: +60 12-583 5319 or email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com

SEAFOOD GALORE AT PENGHULU SEAFOOD

Penghulu Crisp Fried Thai Style (market price) or ‘Lai Sa’ Fish in Chinese, was the show-stealer during our maiden lunch at Penghulu Seafood.

Sliced then coated in a sheer dusting of flour, the fish slices were fried until crisp. Afterwards the tilapia slices were assembled back as a whole fish, served with a heap of sliced onion, chilli, curry leaves and fried garlic crisps. We enjoyed the deliciously on-point fish. A separate dip of plum sauce, kalamansi lime juice and sugar lent it extra boost of flavour (not that the fish needed it).

This was one of the dishes at Penghulu Seafood. The restaurant specialises in Muslim-friendly Chinese cuisine with 46-year-old chef Wan Yee Kwong helming the kitchen team. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and steamboat with fresh seafood and premium ingredients are also on the menu.

Us avid noodle fans thoroughly relished the Fried Tenderloin Beef Noodles (small RM24, medium RM35, large RM46). Topped with a thick, eggy sauce, the subtly smoky-charred noodles and sliced beef primed our appetite in anticipation of other goodies to come.

 

Thai and local influences melded nicely in the Grilled Stingray. Marinated with a dash of turmeric, the fleshy stingray’s natural sweetness proved enticing. Such a pity the two accompanying sauces were a tad watery and failed to perk up the dish. Hopefully the restaurant will work on improving the sauces.

 

Don’t let the fiery hues of the E San Seafood Tom Yum (S RM24, M RM30, L RM44) be a deterrent as the well-balanced soup tasted milder than expected. Chilli fiends can always request for the hotness to be dialled up.

 

Surrounded by deep-fried shredded kailan, the Garlic Mixed Seafood with Kailan (S RM50, M RM75, L RM100) proffered a nice milieu of textural contrasts: tender and springy squid and prawns touched with a Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, chilli, salt, sugar and lime juice against the savouriness of crispy greens, silverfish and dried shrimps.

According to the chef, his Pattaya Chicken (S RM24, M RM35, L RM45) was another pseudo-Thai creation. After the chicken had to be fried using the ‘oil bath’ method, the chook came piled with sliced onion, fresh coriander, Thai chilli and fish sauce, and lime juice. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the piquant sauce tantalising our tastebuds.

A surefire crowd-pleaser, the Belacan Four King Vegetables (S RM20, M RM28, L RM38) comprising long beans, petai (stink beans), eggplant and okra stir-fried with pounded chilli and belacan (shrimp paste) was robustly spicy.

The chef’s Chilli Prawns (S RM42, M RM60, L RM80) – sizeable crustaceans drenched in a mouth-watering tomato-chilli sauce, echoed the flavourful accents of Singapore’s chilli crabs.

 

We found the salt and pepper accentuated Deep-fried Soft Shell Crabs (M RM44, L RM85) passed muster whilst Teochew-style Steamed Jenahak (snapper, market price) with its requisite accompaniments: sliced beancurd, kiam chye (salted mustard leaves)and shiitake mushrooms should appeal to those who prefer clear, understated flavours.

For dessert, you may order Thai Pumpkin Custard from Penghulu Seafood’s sister restaurant E San Thai next door. The delightfully soft steamed pumpkin with its custardy centre was the perfect closure to our indulgent lunch.

For reservations, call Penghulu Seafood at 011-5633 6377. Address: G-G-3A, Block G, Jalan PJU1A/3, Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 11.30am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm. Fri 11.30 – 3pm. Closed Tuesday. 

 

THAI ISAAN TEMPTATIONS AT MERA

Coated in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.

While most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian palates.

Dishes from the North-eastern Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.

Aside from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes add a tinge of fruitiness to it. 

Another popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However, the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred version, let the Mera team know.

Happily, the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets the thumbs up.

Grilled Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber and cut ginger.

Fat. Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.

Kor Moo Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.

The flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.

 

Speckled with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes of crispy pork crackling.

 

Pandan juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.

Currently, an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

 

For reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333. Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.