OISHII KAISEKI EXPERIENCE AT ISHIN

‘Kaiseki’ is so rarefied that no Japanese cuisine connoisseurs would turn down an invitation to savour this multi-course haute dining experience. My last kaiseki encounter was over three years ago so when Angeline Ong invited us to join her for kaiseki at Ishin, it was an offer too good to refuse.

This refined Japanese restaurant is located a stone’s throw away from Mid Valley City, along a main thoroughfare. Housed in a refurbished bungalow, Ishin's cosily outfitted with sleek timber accents and warm lighting. 

 

The oval sushi counter accords upclose and first-hand view of the chefs in action while upstairs boasts a warren of private rooms including several with tatami-style seating albeit with recessed floor space.

The opening act was a trio of tempting morsels. It was full of crunch thanks to the paper-thin slices of deep-fried satsuma (Japanese sweet potato). Things swung to the opposite spectrum with the dense smoothness of pan-fried duck liver spreading on our palate; its unctuous richness tempered by a dash of citrusy yuzu dressing. Completing the appetising showcase was a mini skewer of smoked duck breast rolled with mango strips and micro sprouts, touched with truffle dressing. 

Sipping on the thick and mildly gluey double-boiled blue fin soup, we discovered the collagen-rich gelatinous chunk had a feral mineral aftertaste to it. The broth’s savouriness was tempered by grated yuzu zest whilst mushroom, carrot and leek add extra textural dimension.

Rare and high-brow ingredients are often featured in kaiseki and the subsequent course testified to this. Fried ankimo (monkfish liver) was a rare speciality that was worth its weight in gold. Garnished with tara shirako (cod’s milt or sperm sac), saffron threads, globules of salmon roe and melted cheese, it was a super decadent delicacy tasting of musky gaminess.

 

Equally impressive was the sashimi course. Presented on a bed of crushed ice and a domed ice ‘cave’, the raw fish selection included a superbly sweet akaza ebi (a type of Japanese deep-sea prawn), maguro (tuna) and shima aji (striped jack).

Marbled with flecks of fat throughout, the two slices of Kagoshima beef were more than ample for each person. Quickly seared on a hot stone grill, the meltingly tender meat appeared richly buttery on our tastebuds.

Chasing this up was a dainty don composed from vinegared rice sprinkled with pink fish floss crowned with seared otoro (tuna belly), uni (sea urchin) and slivers of nori. It reminded us of an ultra-luxe, scrumptious onigiri (Japanese rice ball).

Fresh fruit rounded up our meal and even then the variety was mind-blowingly posh. Nectar-sweet Japanese musk melon, persimmon and Kyushu grapes were simple yet refreshingly light; the perfect conclusion to our meal.

You too can savour a similar kaiseki experience at Ishin from about RM600 per person. Price may vary according to the seasonal ingredients served.

For reservations at ISHIN Japanese Dining, call tel: 03-7980-8228. Address: 202, Persiaran Klang, 3¾th Mile, Off Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur

SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR AT SWAADH

Crisp and flaky on the outside, fluffy with that barest hint of chewiness inside, Swaadh serves the best Kerala-style Paratha (RM2.50) ever. Our local roti canai is an evolution of this Indian bread; in this case the dough is folded into a spiral unlike roti canai which is folded into a square. Cooked using sunflower oil, Swaadh’s version is lighter but sublimely tasty.

If you’re a big on Indian food, make Swaadh your ‘must visit’ resto asap. In Hindi and Malayalam, Swaadh means “taste” or “tasty” – an apt description for the many wondrous dishes you’d find at this refined Indian food haven.

Owners Suresh Sushilan and Suren Navaratnam have stepped up to ensure Swaadh’s fine-dining concept stands apart from its competitors. Décor is minimal but enough to put diners at ease, with cream hued walls contrasting with the dark ceiling. The result is a cosy, warm ambience for dining in comfort.

Your passage to India is capably handled by Chef Rahul Krishnan whose decade old culinary experience is augmented by a team of trained chefs from Cochin, Kerala (India). Naturally, North Indian, Kerala and Chettinad specialities are the order of the day here.

 

 

In between sips of slushy Fresh Mint Lime Cooler (RM7.80), we chomped on Indian appetisers of Onion Pakora (deep-fried onion fritters, RM3.90), Chicken Dry Chilli Fry (RM9.90) and Mutton Coconut Fry (RM16.50) while waiting for the mains. The onion fritters were incredibly addictive while the meatier morsels set our tongues alight with a cacophony of spices and intermittent bursts of subtle heat.

The scene stealer is Butter Chicken Masala (RM12.50) – a house speciality which lured us back repeatedly with its complex layering of spices which shines against a canvas of rich, creamy gravy.

No two curries are created equal and the Chicken Methi (RM10.20) proves the chef is a master of spice; the dish’s striking turmeric yellow colour is a clear indication of how different it tastes from the earlier offering.

Lean mean chicken breast turns into superbly scrumptious chunks in the Northern Indian speciality of Hariyali Kebab (RM13.50). Tandoor-grilled and basted with an olive green paste of spinach, green peas, green chillies and coriander, the moist pieces are aromatic and zingy to the bite.

Red shouldn’t be the colour of choice for good Tandoori Chicken (RM15). Depending on the masala mix used, the resultant grilled chicken should flaunt a burnt sienna shade. Swaadh gets it right hence we have nothing but praises for the moist, tender meat which is well suffused with heady spice nuances.

Even the vegetable dishes are deftly prepared. My teen couldn’t get enough of the Palak Paneer (RM10.50) – a first for someone who is trying out for the first time. Who doesn’t love cubes of fresh housemade cottage cheese in devilishly unctuous spinach puree?

 

The Vegetable Khorma (RM9) isn’t too shabby either with its assortment of diced vegetables in yellow gravy. It just begs to be eaten with piping hot fresh Naan (available in four variants, RM3-RM5.20).

Alternatively, you can chase those tempting offerings with Cashew Pulao (RM6.60) – fluffy rice studded with cashew nuts and fried shallots. In addition, six varieties of Briyani (RM6.60-RM18) are available. We can vouch for the Prawn Briyani (RM18) – a big, bold and brightly flavoured dish that warms the tummy and heart with gusto minus the frills. 

From the God’s own country (as Kerala is famously known), the chef baits us with Fish Pollichathu (RM16.50) – fish coated in tongue-tingling chilli and spice marinade then grilled in banana leaf wrap.

There's also Kerala Fish Curry (RM14.50) which again upon your sampling it will tell you the spice concoction differs from that of regular Southern Indian curries.

Coconut and spices - two ingredients central to Kerala's cuisine come together harmoniously in the second Keralan favourite of Prawn Ularthiyathu (RM18.90). Sautéed with pieces of coconut flesh, onions and heady spices, it’s a stellar serving that sears itself into your memory.

Thali Set Meals are also available during lunch with vegetarian and non-vegetarian options served. For catering and special events, there’s a private dining hall onsite.

For reservations at Swaadh, call tel: 03-5166 2082/ 012-9197977 (Suresh). Address: 40A, Lorong Sanggul 1B, Bandar Puteri, Klang, Selangor. Resto is located on 1st floor above a car wash and behind Bandar Puteri 99 Speedmart.