TANTALISING TEMPTATIONS OF TAAN THAI

The seasonal dish of Yellow Cockle Curry (RM32.90) alone is reason enough to make the trip to Taan Thai at Sunway Velocity. Freshly shucked, the cockles’ availability bears testament to the philosophy of Taan Thai — literally to “Eat Thai” i.e. cook thoughtfully, serve with intention, and waste nothing.

 
We are stoked to find the cockles barely cooked, just firm enough to hold their sweet mineral nuance, bathed in a gently spiced curry perfumed with cha om (acacia leaves).

Each component of the Signature Appetiser Platter (RM49.90) offers a measured glimpse into the culinary team's budding abilities. A well-composed introduction, it teases our palate with the charred smokiness of pandan-wrapped chicken, a custard-soft mackerel otak, deliciously crisp prawn fritters, scrumptious skewers of grilled pork, and a punchy savoury mackerel dip with cucumber.

 
The Mieng Kam (RM18.90) arrives neatly composed instead of leaving diners to assemble their own. Each betel leaf parcel unleashes a well-balanced profusion of sweet, savoury, and herbal notes. Calibrated with a dab of house-made caramelised shrimp paste, we relish the appetiser’s delicately flavourful depth.

Also on-point are the moreish Crispy Prawn Donuts (RM24.90). Bite into one and you'd find the exterior shatters lightly, giving way to a springy, well-seasoned prawn filling that induces repeat servings.

Soups are treated with much deserved patience. The bright and clean Clear Tom Yum Seafood Soup (RM49.90) delights with its finely tuned acidity, while the Coconut Chicken Soup with Galangal (RM27.90) exudes a softer, more rounded profile.

Touting a culinary team focused on the importance of balance stemming from the use of house-made pastes - ground fresh from herbs and spices - they form the backbone of winsome dishes like the rich and creamy Khao Soi with chicken (RM22.90) or beef (RM28.90) and the pleasant, lingering sharpness of Tangy Pork Belly & Morning Glory Curry (RM29.90). 

Familiar and rare specialities beckon too. Comforting mainstays include house-made Pure Mackerel Thai Fish Cakes (RM18.90) and Pomelo Salad with Signature Taan Thai Dressing (RM23.90) whilst fiery trail-blazers of Spicy Isaan Thai Beef Salad and Southern Thai Minced Chicken Dry Curry (RM20.90) should please chilli heat-seeking fiends.

Equally compelling is the seabass selection. Edging ahead is the Deep Fried Seabass in Spicy & Sour Curry (RM64.90), thanks to the addition of fluffy cha om omelette that soaks up the sauce nicely. Its counterpart, dressed in a vibrant Thai herb and fruit dressing, is lighter but no less engaging.

For those who appreciate greens with character, the Kai Cha-Om (RM19.90) leaves an indelible impression thanks to its unmistakable acacia aroma in omelette form, while the Stir-fried Melinjo with Egg (RM22.90) offers an agreeable bitter counterpoint.

 
Pork dishes are adroitly handled. The Spicy Isaan-style Grilled Pork Neck Salad (RM32.90) carries a gentle smokiness, the Pad Kra Pow Moo Sap (RM23.90) is punchy without being harsh, and the Braised Pork Knuckle (RM32.90) leans into comforting, familiar flavours.

 
Street food staple like Pad See Ew (RM21.90) is given due respect. The flat rice noodles flaunts whiffs of wok hei - that elusive breath of the wok lending heady flavoursome depth to the soy-slicked fried noodles.

Desserts are straightforward but well-judged. Tub Tim Krob (RM14.90) refreshes with its cool sweetness and textural contrast, while Mango Sticky Rice (RM16.90) closes the meal on a comforting note. In Kuala Lumpur’s heat, the invigorating Tom Yum Cooler (RM15.90) and Pandan Cooler with Basil Seeds (RM8.90) provide welcome relief.

Taan Thai is not about theatrics but about clarity of flavour, respect for ingredients, and cooking that's grounded in heart and experience rather than excess. And in today’s dining landscape, that makes Taan Thai worth returning to.

 
For more info and reservations at Taan Thai, call tel: 011-6547 1811. Address: Lot B-25, B1 Floor, Sunway Velocity Mall, Lingkaran SV, Kuala Lumpur.

BREAK FAST WITH SAJIAN SENJA AT HYATT PLACE

 

Siakap Sayap and Kway Teow Bulan Purnama are two ‘must try’ dishes when you break fast at Hyatt Place Bukit Jalil this year. Available from 14 March to 5 April, the Sajian Senja buffet (6.30pm to 9.30pm) spread is a first for the international brand name hotel catering for buka puasa at the Bukit Jalil area.

According to Bennett Peter, General Manager of Hyatt Place, “the culinary team comprising experienced and young chefs work together in true Muhibbah spirit to prepare the inaugural buka puasa buffet in our beautiful Wira Ballroom. The older chefs rely on their experience whilst the young ones draw inspiration from their mothers’ recipes, to showcase the different dishes served.”

 

Head of Culinary Lee Yew Ken and his kitchen brigade comprising Chef Muhamad Taufiq and Chef Muhammad Afiq will prepare signature specialities like Kway Teow Bulan Purnama, with the golden egg yolk on top resembling a full moon. After sampling the fried flat rice noodles with whole fried egg, we found it deliciously flavourful with a nice smoky char.

Another must try dish is Siakap Sayap or seabass fin curry, blending Malay and Indian culinary influences. The aromatic curry had cumin, garam marsala and other Indian spices in it; making it more piquant and flavoursome. Fleshy parts of the seabass fin and collar are cooked with potatoes and mushroom, yielding an appetising, multi-textural curry.

Notable temptations from the 9 cooking stations and buffet include a most delectable Ayam Percik, sizzling Satay, creamy and well-spiced Lamb Shank Kurma, aromatic Biryani with Roast Lamb Leg, tantalising Deep Fried Fish with Thai Chilli Sauce, zingy Stir-fried Beef with Turmeric and Vegetables, tasty Butter Prawns with Cereal, piquant Ayam Masak Merah and yummy Sotong Masak Kicap Hitam.

Festive feels can be savoured from Lemang and Ketupat Palas accompanied by turmeric leaf-scented Ayam and Daging Rendang, and Serunding Ayam and Daging (spiced chicken and beef floss).

Bubur Lambuk, Steamed and Deep Fried Dim Sum and Tom Yam Soup along with a selection of local Kerabu, Ulam and Sambal can be enjoyed from the line-up.

Sweet endings in the form of Ais Kacang, Malay Kuih and fresh local fruits complete the dining affair. Hot Teh and Kopi Tarik are also dispensed on request whilst a sweet dessert broth of Bubur Kacang Merah rounds off the vast selection.

EARLY BIRD OFFER

Sajian Senja is offering an early bird voucher at RM137 nett per adult in a single purchase before 6 March and can be utilised for bookings until 5 April, 2024. (Normal price is RM167 nett per adult and RM97 nett for children aged 4 – 12)

Advanced booking and payment are recommended. For reservations for Sajian Senja, call: 03 9764 9888, Whatsapp +6012 832 8863 or email: kualalumpur.place@hyatt.com