A MID-AUTUMN 'FEASTIVAL'

Don't you find the mound of bright orange roe a sight for sore eyes and rumbling tummies? Yes, those miniscule, slightly crunchy pearls are ebikko or prawn roe - most people mistakenly assume these as tobikko or flying fish roe which actually are bigger, more translucent and pricier. We reckon they make such an appetising adornment for the dish of seafood fried rice! I daresay this delectable dish created quite a stir with my whole family last weekend for our Mid-Autumn 'feastival'!



In case you're wondering where did we partake this amazing dish, it was pure serendipity which led us to its discovery. My siblings and I were just racking our brains on where to go for our family feast that wet, wet Sunday ... since Mom has retired from cooking our festive meals, we had to find a place to eat our Mid-Autumn Festival celebratory dinner. Our regular haunt, Restoran 52 threw a spanner in the works earlier when they informed us at the last minute that the outlet won't be open for the day! So there we were, moping around and wondering when the torrents of rain would ceased when we got really captivated at the sight of the two 8TV Ho Chiak presenters scarfing down this dish of fried rice with seafood, egg yolks and fish roe which we thought was rather unique. You could have seen our jaws dropped in disbelief when it was revealed that the eatery is located in Kajang!

To cut a long story short, we were out of the house in a jiffy and headed for the said outlet for dinner!



Besides the Seafood Fried Rice with Flying Fish Roe (that's what the outlet called it anyway), we also ordered Deep-fried Oyster Mushroom, Steamed Tilapia with Spicy Bean Sauce, Homemade Tofu with Minced Pork, Saucy Pork Ribs, Stir-fried Long Beans with Brinjal in Sambal, as well as Shelled Prawns Deep-fried and Tossed with Mayonnaise and Coleslaw. Admittedly, we went a tad overboard but the food portions were not exactly skimpy either for our clan of seven adults and four kiddos.





While waiting for our dishes to arrive, we had a field day drooling over the wall-mounted colour photos depicting the outlet's many house specialities. The dishes are imaginative and varied compared to other no-frills restaurants with selected ones requiring advance orders. More outstanding ones that caught our attention include Shark's Fin Kway Teow, Hairy Gourd Stuffed with Dried Scallops, Tofu with XO Sauce, German-style Crisp Skin Pork Knuckle, Premier Loh Hon Chai (Vegetarian Dish with Assorted Mushrooms and Layered Bean Sheets), Deep-fried Prawns with Salted Egg Yolk, Freshwater Prawns Noodles and Black Pepper Udon.





Overall, the Fried Rice was a hit with everyone especially the kids. The crispy fried mushrooms were great with a piquant and tangy chilli dip but we found the fish a tad too sweet from the bean sauce which literally 'drowned' the fish. The vegetable dish passed muster as did the beancurd. Luckily the pork ribs and prawns proved memorable for their inventive marinade and sauces.





But what's even better is the prices which are similar to that of Restoran 52. According to the young chap who runs the place, his father helms another outlet by the same name in heart of Kajang town by day while his uncle takes over at night. However, he told us that the three of them offer different dishes so we may have to try out the other two as well given a chance. One thing's for sure - this eatery has not seen the last of us yet!

OLD MAN RESTAURANT
CG-1 & CG-2 Ground Floor
Block C Jalan Putra
Taman Putra
Kajang Selangor
Mobile no. 012-3450575, 012-2380575

NICE ICE BABY!

Our current hot sweltering weather simply demands cool solutions for soothing relief from the intense heat! What better way to do it than with these sweet and splendid treats!



Shall we Haagen-Dazs? We wish the cafe would make more effort though as its single scoop presentation leaves much to be desired. Come on, surely someone at HD can rack up on the creativity that befits the brand's premium stature? Heck, at RM13 it's not too much to ask for is it?



Even Movenpick succeeds in creaming the competition with this colourful ensemble. Granted the ice cream was a tad soft and melty but the way it was presented left us feeling there's some value in it!



Ice-cream doesn't melt your heart? Then how about the ever-popular Ice Kacang? Few Malaysians can resist this slurpilicious mound of shaved ice filled with nuts, cendol strips, red beans, black grass jelly dices and creamed corn, drenched with evaporated milk and rose and palm syrups. When the heat is on, this yummy creation is the ultimate nice ice treat!

A-PORK-CLYPSE NOW!

The Rib Shop started the ball rolling when it boldly ventured into the non-halal territory by offering porky dishes to go with its extensive wine range in Damansara some years ago. Then came El Cerdo which had KL-lites all abuzz over its Spanish suckling pig and pork-centric delights.

It didn't take other restaurateurs to figure out there's a sizeable non-Muslim clientele who are just waiting to gobble up something different apart from the usual staples of Bak Kut Teh, Roast Suckling Pig, Roast Pork, Char Siew, etc.

So when I was invited to a special dinner headlining the Cochinillo Segoviano or roast Spanish suckling pig, how could I refuse? Bruno's Restaurant & Bar turned out to be a relevation of sorts - secreted at one corner of Jaya 33, this eatery is started by the same lady owner who runs the much-talked about Food Foundry.

What's good to eat here? Well, Chef Franky Chin who used to work with the Four Seasons in Singapore and then spent some time working/studying in the UK, is a dab hand when it comes to serving up Mediterranean, Italian and Spanish-style delicacies.



Starters to get you off on a head start include Piquillo Peppers with Anchovies with Tuna Belly (top) and White Asparagus with Iberico Ham and Romesco Sauce (below).



For those of you who have no inkling of what's so special about the Iberico pig, this Spanish black-haired breed is prized by gourmands for its tender, tasty meat. Also the pigs can be considered organically raised as they are allowed to roam freely, feeding on grass and acorns from the plush plains in Spain. Yeap, no growth hormones, antibiotics or chemical-laced feed for these precious piggies.

How is it different from the Cochinillo Segoviano? Well, the roast Spanish suckling pigs are prepared using 20-day old piglets which are suckled exclusively on their grain-fed mothers' milk. It is a classic speciality from the province of Segovia since the pigs are bred specifically in this area under strict regulations of the relevant certification bodies in Spain.

Chef Javier Sancha who is a third-generation expert when it comes to the Cochinillo Asado (roast suckling pig) at his family's famed El Pastor restaurant back home, was brought in to demonstrate how the speciality is prepared for local diners to sample. In essence, the piglet is roasted in a wood-fire oven for 2-2.5 hours with just a sprinkling of salt and nothing more.



It is interesting to find that the skin is thinner than our local Chinese suckling pig's and definitely yields a greater amount of tender, juicy meat. Those who are aversed to the strong milky aroma of dairy products may find the meat a bit of an acquired taste. Not surprising really since the little piglets had nothing but milk in their diet from day one.



Earlier we were also treated to an El Pastor Tapas Medley - each was a truly delightful morsel that remained in memory even after it was eaten. The other speciality featured for the special evening was Lechazo Asado (roast suckling lamb), an equally delectable Castillian delicacy.



Dinner rounded up on a luscious note with Natilla and Leche Frita, a superbly creamy deep-fried pancake and decadent pudding.

I have been back since for a heartily satisfying lunch. Now I can't wait for Bruno's to bring on the bacon since the outlet will be starting its weekend brunch soon!

Make haste and make a pig of yourself at Bruno's if you are into porky pig!

Bruno's Restaurant & Bar
PG-01 A Ground Floor
Jaya 33 Section 13
Jalan Semangat Petaling Jaya
Tel: (03) 7960 2663

NOODLES TO DOODLE OVER

On scorching hot days, nothing beats a bowl of cold soba noodles! Found one recently at a little Japanese outlet known as Hokano in Damansara Uptown. The place also serves reasonably priced set lunches and a variety of imaginative sushi rolls. But that's another story altogether.



I find the easiest way to revive jaded tastebuds (well, mine at least) is to eat something spicy or robustly flavoured. For some inexplicable reasons, I have this urge for mee rebus and mee bandung. So imagine how esctatic I was when I stumbled upon this nondescript outlet enroute to Kajang town which sells Mee Bandung Muar. The outlet - D'Muar World (inspired by Akademi Fantasia's hottest winner of all time, Mawi no doubt) has always had lots of cars parked in and about its vicinity so we suspect the food must be pretty good. Once I had my first bite of the mee bandung, you can almost see one of those big cartoonish speech balloons popping up above my head with the word 'Sedaaaapppp!!!' in it. The gravy is thick and richly flavoured with prawns and spices with a just hint of sweetness. Super yummy!



Nowadays, green is in but how many of us really conscientiously bother to adopt a low-carbon, eco-friendly diet? My token efforts amount to nothing more than buying and using that occasional organic wholewheat flour, sea salt and veges. Yeah, I've got a looooong way to go before I become a full-fledged greenie. But I must say I felt really good after eating Woods Macrobiotics' 5 Energy Somen Noodles. Don't they present a pretty picture? Made from organic wholewheat flour, their different coloured noodles are resultant from ground organic soya, bitchotan charcoal, green tea, beetroot and carrot powder. Each type of noodles supposedly helps to strengthen the heart, liver, kidney and stomach. I'm all for eating my way to good health!



Being the chilli fan that I am, Mee Siam naturally is one of my all-time favourite noodle dish. Toast & Toast Cafe in Balakong serves a decent version which is spicy enough. The rice vermicelli is also not too dry which is nice. Actually I can dish up a pretty mean version myself but slothfulness and work deadlines have prevented me from venturing into the kitchen. So the one at Toast & Toast will have to do for now ;-p



Nothing reminds me of my childhood more than Hokkien Mee. Believe me, this dish of ubiquitous noodles is bound to make its appearance come any tai yat chee or Chinese festivals in my grandparents' house alongside the park chit kai (white-cut steamed chicken) and popiah (spring rolls). Mom is a consummate expert at dishing this black soya sauce drenched noodles but she has since retired from culinary duties years ago! So what's a Hokkien gal to do but resort to search for alternatives? Luckily, the Klang Valley (especially in PJ - why is that??) still has 2-3 stalls that offer a decent version - not quite my Mom's gold standard but heck, beggars can't be choosers now eh? Our favourites? The no-name stall in Jalan Pudu (average wait 45 min-1 hour!), Millennium Eighty Six CoffeeShop and O&S Restaurant.



Last but not least, pasta is fast becoming a staple in our household. Especially with the little one who eats it faster than you can say Yee Meen! Don't know if it has anything to do with the fact that Italians have cheesey sauce ... Our little weekend luxury treat is to pop into Susan's Bistro at Bandar Mahkota Cheras (yes, that famous no-toll access road area which saw a battle royal between big money-making toll company and 'rakyat' months ago) for Spaghetti Carbonara. Creamy, unctuous yet oh-so-delicious, it takes Herculean effort from a light eater to finish a singular portion! But who's complaining eh?

CHOCOLATE FRENZY

After the earlier success of my chocolate muffins, I was inspired to give the trusty pound cake recipe another go. Although the recipe calls for a 6 inch can pan, I used an 8 inch ring pan instead coz that is what I have on hand. The rest were 2 inches too big so I really don't want to risk the cake 'stretching' unnecessarily.

Since the temperature stated is 375 degrees Fahrenheit, I set my oven to 190 degrees Celsius. Also I added 3 tablespoons of milk to the recipe as I read somewhere that cocoa tends to dry out the cake texture during baking. After the cake had been baking for a while, I noticed the top was cracked. This indicated the oven was too hot or it could be due to my own foolhardiness in using that ring pan!

Anyway all's well that ends well. After 45 minutes I realised the cake had shrunk away from the pan edges a little so I quickly removed it from the oven. Luckily no further damage was evident. Phew!



Here's a close-up of the end result. Doesn't look too bad does it? Tastes great too I must say. It was a tad dry when it was still warm but after 1-2 days, the texture actually became more moist. To cover up the unsightly cracks, I decided to slather the cake with some chocolate frosting.



I used 200 ml whipping cream mixed with half a large bar of cooking chocolate and a small pat of butter for the frosting. Can you believe it was my first time making this? I got really worried when the mixture looked too runny when I poured it onto the cake - I guess I should have let it cool down first before even thinking of using it! Nevertheless, nobody complained about the taste so I reckon it was fine. Once overnight, the cake appearance looked much, much better as the frosting has taken on a nice sheen.



This recipe is for keeps!

BINGING ON BISCOTTI

I will never forget the first time I attempted to make biscotti. It was a disaster! Instead of achieving a light, slightly crunchy texture, everything ended up hard as rock. Only the flavour was agreeable but I was thankful that my Mom encouraged me not to give up. She also gamely finished the trial batch which I truly appreciate.

Happily, my subsequent attempt turned out better - thanks I suspect mainly to Rohani Jelani's recipe which appeared in a backdated issue of Flavours magazine. Having purchased several jars of Rohani's splendid biscotti before some years ago, I had never quite forgotten how nice they tasted. So I was estatic when I discovered her biscotti recipe! The results were so good, I actually made about a dozen canisters of them a week before Chinese New Year as pai nin giftaways. Not quite enough to go around so a small coterie of relatives and friends were the lucky beneficiaries.



For those who are game to try their hands at churning out a batch or two here's the recipe.

ROHANI'S ALMOND BISCOTTI

3 eggs (size A)
160 g caster sugar (the original recipe has it down as 200g but I used less)
1/4 tsp vanilla extract (you can also use real vanilla flecks scraped from 1 vanilla pod - the flavour is fab! It's pricey though as 3 pods cost RM20)
50g ground almonds
200g whole almonds (I use skinned almonds but again these tend to be slightly pricier. You can also use hazelnuts or pistachios or even a mixture)

Sift together
320g plain flour
1/4 tsp bicarbonate soda
1/2 tsp baking powder
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 160 degrees Celsius. Spread whole almonds onto baking tray and bake for 10-15 minutes. Cool thoroughly before using.

Stir ground almonds together with sifted flour. Then add in whole almonds and mix evenly. Divide mixture into three portions

Cream sugar, eggs and vanilla extract until light and frothy. Using a large sturdy spatula or metal spoon, fold each portion of the flour mixture into the egg and sugar batter. You should end up with a soft, sticky dough.

Dust your worktop, baking tray and hands with flour. Roll 1/4 of the dough mixture on the floured surface with your hands. Shape roughly into a log and place it onto the baking tray. Leave enough room in between for the dough to spread during baking.

Bake for 15 minutes. The logs should feel firm to the touch. If they are not, bake for another 5 minutes. After that, remove from oven and leave them to cool down.

Use a serrated knife to slice the logs thinly. Lay the slices on a clean, dry tray. Bake each side for 6-8 minutes depending on thickness. When done, remove and let the slices cool on a wire rack. Once cooled, be sure to store them in airtight containers.

MAY DAY MAKAN

What better way to celebrate Labour Day on the first day of May with some great eats! After reading tons of rave reviews by online floggers, I personally thought it's about time we check out the famous Green View Restaurant in Petaling Jaya for ourselves.

Since the outlet is renowned for its Sang Har Meen or freshwater prawn noodles, that was the first dish we ordered.



Doesn't it look slurpilicious? Our portions were for two persons but it was enough to feed three adults and one kid. The prawns were fresh albeit a tad overcooked but we had no complaints about the crispy noodles and egg sauce topping. Still both hubby and I agree its taste simply can't rival that of our gold benchmark - the tai shee tow (big tree) outlet behind Kota Raya in KL.

We also had Crabs with Stir-fried with Salted Egg Yolk. I must say the crabs were very fresh and meaty. Just look at the size of the crab claw! It was bigger than a tablespoon ok. Was so busy chomping down on the crustaceans I quite forgot to snap the actual dish ... The dish was a tad rich though and we regretted not ordering it cooked with sweet and sour sauce.



Overall, Green View left a good first impression. We probably will return to try the other dishes - that is if we can prise ourselves away from Fatty Crab which has always been our all-time crab feasting outlet. But that's another story huh?

CHOC MUFFINS THAT TAKE THE CAKE!

Every kid is a sucker for chocolate. Ditto for mine. Yesterday at the spur of the moment, we thought it'd be kinda fun to churn out a batch of chocolatey muffins. We were really pleased at how they turned out...



I used this easy-peasy Pound Cake recipe from my school's Home Science book and was amazed how well it worked.

3.5 oz plain wheat flour
0.5 oz cocoa powder
3.5 oz caster sugar
4 oz butter
2 eggs
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp vanilla essence
1 tbsp chocolate chip

Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Sift flour, cocoa powder and baking powder together. Cream eggs and sugar until mixture turns light and pale cream in colour. Beat eggs and add 1/4 of it into the egg and sugar batter. Stir well and add in 1 tbsp of flour mixture. Gently fold to incorporate everything evenly. Add in beaten egg alternating with flour until both mixtures are used up. Line muffin pan with paper cups. Divide and scoop cake batter into each cup until it is half filled. Scatter chocolate chips on top to decorate. Pop them into the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes. Test with skewer - if it comes out clean, the muffins are done.



This close-up shot looks kinda 'spacey' huh? Like some alien territory...but one that really takes the cake!

FOOD TRIP

A recent trip to Johor Bahru means lunch with an old friend who is a good cook and an ardent food lover. We had lunch at Danga Palace. The Sichuan Hot & Sour Soup was notable in which the sour, spicy and saltiness are well-balanced. It was also brimming with goodies - strands of soft beancurd, wood ear fungus, bamboo shoot, etc.



We ordered a chicken dish prepared in two ways - one with a piquant Thai-style sauce while the other coated in Marmite. Again the harmonious blend of flavours made the dish truly memorable. The latter was outstanding as the batter coating was thoroughly imbued with the Marmite sauce.





The other dishes we had were Stir-fried Kai Lan and a simple Beancurd dish. Later as we were wandering around JB, we stumbled upon an old bakery which has a 66-year old oven. They sell the real Roti Bengali that is popularly used for thick Hainanese toast, butter rolls, curry puffs and rounds of butter pastry. We bought one of their chicken curry puffs - the flaky pastry tasted richly of butter and the filling had a surprisingly generous amount of diced chicken meat. Too bad I forgot to snap a pix before it was devoured!

For dinner, we drove to Singapore. Found this decent Prawn Noodles with Pork Ribs in Chinatown. Quite different from our Malaysian version but it was tasty nonetheless. I luuuurrrvvve the soup - thank goodness it wasn't MSG-laden or else I would have suffered the consequences! Its hearty sweetness probably stemmed from the prawns and pork in it. Speaking of which, the pork ribs were equally nice and tender. Even the soft bones are edible with a nice crunch to them.



Hubby's Pork Rib Wantan Mee also came up to mark. In fact, it was better than some local ones from our "instant hawkers" here. It certainly put paid to our old presumption that Singapore-style wantan mee is weird and laden with tomato sauce. Well, not anymore. And if we Malaysians aren't careful their hawkers may just beat ours one day. Prices were another surprise - let's not do the currency conversion ok. Dollar for dollar, mine costs S$4 and hubby's S$3 for ours were small portions. I can't imagine us getting such decent food nowadays in KL...not when big prawn and pork ribs are concerned.



Other goodies which we had during our Chinatown jaunt included this German cheese sausage with mustard, a durian cendol (better than average which again was unexpected) and some roasted chestnuts (fresh, fresh, fresh without any badly shrivelled up ones like I sometimes get when I buy them in KL).



The following morning I had a most delicious kon lou (dry toss) meehoon with minced pork, pork and fish balls, sliced fish cake and deep-fried lard dices! Even the soup came with chopped seaweed which lent so much flavour. I can't get over the fact that I only paid S$2.20 for it!

All in all, it has been quite a revelation. It looks like their street food is fast gaining on us. Not a threat yet but if we are not careful, they will be.

We also went to Food Hotel Asia the next day but sadly, the show was a letdown. Perhaps my expectations were too high but there was nothing ground-breaking unlike when I first attended the event some years ago. So much so that I didn't even bother to shoot any photos...

Enroute back to KL, we stopped by the Machap rest area for a quick bite. Since I didn't have lunch, I grabbed a packet of Nasi Ambeng. This is Johor's equivalent to Nasi Lemak. A Malay friend told me it's a Javanese speciality usually served at weddings and auspicious kenduri or celebratory feasts.



Here's a not-very-good photo of the packet of rice - it has plain white rice with some fried yellow noodles in it, two pieces of salted fish (extra-large anchovies), spiced kerisik (grated coconut), fried chicken in a sweetish, mildly spiced black sauce and sambal. Unlike Nasi Lemak, it leaves you feeling less jelak (bloated? overly satiated?) and the multiple spice flavours more aromatic than red-hot spicy. A nice way to round off this business cum food trip ;-))

BONE UP ON BAK KUT TEH

Shah Alam is not somewhere one would think of when the urge for Bak Kut Teh strikes.

Last week an acquaintance introduced us to He Take Bak Kut Teh, a 6 month old outlet in Kota Kemuning. It was our first time setting foot at that part of town but luckily it was still a breeze locating the shop.

What strikes us most at first glance is the rustic decor. The interior is purposedly done up with horizontally laid wooden planks reminiscent of old Chinese village houses. I grew up in one - my grandparents' old house in Jalan Ipoh looked exactly like He Take's so I felt right at home straight away! Aside from a hand-carved black and gold Chinese calligraphic signage, the walls are adorned with some old Shanghainese posters and mini oil lamps. Classic Chinese wood/marble chairs and tables complete the setting.

The outlet owner, Mr Eng is no stranger to the world of bak kut teh (BKT). His father's Teochew-style BKT recipe so popular in Malacca, his family now have cornered almost 80% of the Malaccan market. But Eng has a bigger bone to chew.

"I want to turn this into a franchise," said the former financial director. "If Old Town Coffee can turn their kopi tiam into a successful franchise, I aim to do it with He Take BKT". Having spent a good number of years overseas with several MNCs, Eng is now setting his plans into motion with He Take.

He said the outlet name is a phonetic reference to his father's name. "It's easy to pronounce and remember." And what of the outlet specialities?

"He Take offers BKT lovers two versions of the meaty broth - the thick, hearty Klang-style BKT or our lighter, more delicate tasting Malacca-Teochew version," Eng said. "We also serve 'dry-style' BKT, besides seafood and mushroom/vegetables variants for better variety."

While your BKT orders are being cooked, whet your appetite with Sichuan-style streaky bacon with spicy sweet and peanut sauce. If you dislike fatty bits, then steer clear of this as 2/3 of each slice consists of pure, white fat! Served slightly chilled, the delicacy simply melts in your mouth! The piquant, nutty sauce needs to be less though as it tends to overcome the natural porky taste.

Another tantalising option is the Japanese seaweed salad - fresh wakame and finely shredded carrot tossed with sesame seeds in a mouth-watering sweet, tangy sesame oil dressing.

I surprise myself that after sampling both, the Malacca-Teochew version seems nicer on the palate despite its more subtle nuances. The single portion comes with meaty ribs, sliced 'ng fa yoke' or five-layered belly pork, black mushrooms, beancurd puffs and sliced celery.

However, if you like your BKT potently rich and full-bodied, then the Klang-style version will be more agreeable. You can specify whichever parts you want i.e. knuckle, belly pork, soft ribs or chunky shin bones. It also comes with crisp-fried foo chook or beancurd sheet and black mushrooms. This hearty delight goes well with the yam rice and will have you asking for seconds.

The 'dry-style' version is darker, richer and tastes slightly spicy. It's better with white rice. Other goodies available here are steamed ladies fingers drizzled with crisp fried shallots and soya sauce, stewed chicken feet and BKT with mee sua (wheat noodles). Prices are reasonable - not much different from your average BKT outlet.

HE TAKE BAK KUT TEH
25g Jalan Anggerik Aranda C31/C
Kota Kemuning Shah Alam Selangor
Tel: (03) 5121 3219

LET FRANKIE WOO YOU

I have nothing against celebrity chefs but it does get a tad worrying when some get carried away flogging books, TV shows, live appearances, etc. instead of sticking to their actual vocation - that of cooking.

Chef Frankie Woo, therefore, I daresay is terribly ‘old school’. This is one Chinese chef that eats, breathes, lives on and even dreams of good food with such deep-seated passion, it is hard not to share his enthusiasm.

This lanky, stick-thin veteran chef has been in the business since he was 13 years old. Whether it's a no-frills restaurant or top 5-star hotel outlets, Chef Frankie Woo has worked in them all. Today, he calls the shots at his own restaurant, Gu Yue Tien. Don't be fooled by its low-key existence though - although it is just three years old, Gu Yue Tien often attracts a discerning circle of fine Chinese food connoisseurs including the rich, powerful and famous. So don't be surprised if you spot superstar Jackie Chan or Datuk Michelle Yeoh and her beau at the table next to yours.

Did you know that Chef Frankie Woo is one of the few Asian chefs who has had the privilege of being a guest chef in the US of A at the invitation of the prestigious James Beard Foundation in 2004? James Beard is one of America's most respected chefs and his foundation is seen as a guardian of excellent culinary standards for top-notch restaurants and the F&B industry. Every year only a handful of young, talented chefs from all over the world are invited to showcase their culinary prowess at a special 'by invitation only' dinner. "Just how important is it? Well, it's like being invited to do a film with Steven Spielberg or George Lucas!" said Chef Woo.

Yes, one can literally talk till the cows come home with Chef Woo once you get him started on the subject of food. His ardent passion and superior knowledge of Chinese cuisine, its origins and intricate links to a rich, primeval cultural legacy are further substantiated by his wealth of experience and skills. This is one chef who is well-versed with the nitty-gritty of cooking up everything and anything under the sun, whether it's wild exotic meat or contemporary Chinese dishes that incorporate the wealth of ingredients sourced from different corners of the world. But one thing is for sure - diners can be assured that his modernistic approach never detracts from their quintessential Chinese essence.

For instance, his Double-boiled Pig’s Stomach Soup with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin (RM80++ per bowl) is a masterful blend of humble rusticity and sheer extravagance. Robust and peppery, this timeless home-style soup is transformed into a gastronomic treat thanks to the addition of shark's fin.

While the cold appetizer of Smoked Salmon Roll with Crab Meat Salad and Salmon Roe (RM12++) is more Continental than Chinese, you can't help but marvel at the interplay of textures and flavours emanating from the wickedly indulgent creation.

The sublime dressing in the Oven-Baked Fresh Oyster with Honey Glaze and Lemon Dressing (RM14++) does a great job of heightening the mollusks’ inherent sea-fresh sweetness and succulence. Concocted from honey, lemon zest, aged Chinese vinegar and spring onion, it will leave an indelible impression on you long after the dish has been consumed.

Like Merlin the Magician, Chef Woo's ‘saucery’ skill once again comes to the fore in the Baked Fresh Water Prawns with Home-made Butter Sauce (RM13++ per piece). Velvety-smooth and rich, the sauce is superbly aromatic thanks to the curry leaves in it.

We also had a chance to savour Steamed Empurau, a highly-prized native fresh water fish (Tor tramboides) from the pristine rivers of Sarawak. Due to its elusiveness and dwindling numbers, the fish which can weigh up to 7-8 kilos, can sometimes command between RM400 and RM800 per kilogramme in the market.

Chef Woo said the fish is rich in omega-3 oils as it is fond of feeding on oil palm seeds. "I usually steam it whole with the scales intact to ensure its clear, sweet flavour and fine texture are maintained.” Indeed, the fish has an ethereal melt-in-the-mouth silkiness to it. Its fatty belly area is especially appreciated for its smooth, custardy texture.

Another signature dish is Braised Black Pig with Mushroom and Radish (RM26++). The pricey pork is known to be unbelievably tender as the black-coated Spanish pigs are raised on a natural diet of grass, herbs, roots and acorns. Having been braised with radish and mushrooms, the fork-tender escalopes are suffused with an enticingly earthy sweetness.

If you love soft-boiled eggs, Chef Woo's trademark Half-boiled Egg with Foie Gras (RM8++ each)is a 'must have'. A decadent treat imbued with the indulgent richness of foie gras, the lightly poached egg is served in its shell.

Even dessert is slightly off the beaten track – his Bittergourd Pudding with Honeydew (RM8++) stands out for its subtle kum (gold) aftertaste, an astringent bittersweet nuance which is a refreshing counterpoint for this creation.

Located at Chulan Square across from The Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Gu Yue Tien’s understated elegance makes it a favourite amongst corporate types and fine Chinese cuisine lovers. Its discreet, personalised service is further boosted by the owner/chef’s hands-on approach. Expect to pay around RM99++ per person or more when you dine here but some of the signature specialities are worth every sen.

GU YUE TIEN (non-halal)
Lot 5A Chulan Square
Jalan Raja Chulan
Kuala Lumpur
Reservations: 2148 0808